Props

I went with the stainless steel prop when I bought the new Yamaha 90 in 2005, but the 13 lb prop banged so hard when shifting into gear that I feared for my shift dogs! (gears)

Went back to aluminum for ease of repair and replacement:

Small dings can be hammered out, filed, sanded, primed, and painted. EASY. $0.00

For larger strikes you have two choices-

1. Have the prop welded and repaired by a prop shop- about $75.

2. Buy an new aluminum prop on ebay that was taken off a new motor by someone else that went the staninless route- about $50!

Joe.
 
John --
Props didn't come with our new Hondas -- we put on the ProPulse props from our old engines. Those ProPulse now have many thousands of miles of successful cruising. We snapped a single blade once, on the upper Columbia River lakes in BC, and with an inexpensive replacement blade were soon on our way again. They can be adjusted easily for pitch, which is helpful for those who are changing altitude in their cruising (like HunkyDory), and to get max efficiency for any of us.

So, do you get a prop that should resist damage from most impacts (and take the risk with the lower unit, a possible but improbable consequence of major impact) or get a prop that is in designed to break (so it will, perhaps even with minor impacts) but is inexpensive and easy to repair?

While we're on such a tough choice subject, should we discuss the relative merits of Ford vs. Chevy vs. Dodge? (We own a Toyota Tundra) :lol:
 
Well, El and Bill,

My basic philosophy on those things is to have the weak, or "sacrificial" part, cheap and easily accessible. In dentistry we often have choices like that in crowns, implants, and other tooth replacements. I think it's alot better to have an easily replaceable part of the structure give out before damage gets to the major components.

I will have to look further for the limitations on the different brands of props.

I appreciate your input!!!

John
 
El and Bill.... Got on the Propulse Prop site and they do rate them for high horsepower engines! They even have a model for the Honda 150 with counter-rotating blades.... Yay!

I'm a gonna get me 'un! ... or two 'uns... I mean an 'un and a 'nu or nu' if I can find a dealer...

Thanks so much, you guys!

John
 
If it is possible, it's best to seat a crown with a cement that will give way under excessive force. That way one avoids breaking the crown, the tooth, or injuring the supporting structures.

Each case has it's own individual considerations, so generalizations are difficult.

Since most in-bone implants are made of titanium which can break or work harden. Different implant systems use "weak links" or energy absorbing components so that the most likely thing to break is above the bone.

Cemented bridges that are long often include 'stress breakers' and/or a segment that is designed to come loose before the bridge breaks, the teeth break, or the supporting structures are 'broken'.

John
 
So a crown is kind of like a composite or aluminum prop, the implant is like a stainless steel prop (you hope the hub spins), and the bridge is like an inboard where you hope something fails outside the boat and the shaft seal doesn't leak. I try to take good care of my boat and my teeth as the object is not to replace anything. While the boat doesn't need an anasthetic, my threshold of pain for replacing things behind my lips is pretty low. If we meet in Seattle, I'll have to tell you about the Air Force dentist who asked if it hurt after I broke the arm on the chair.
 
Yes, Mark, we're now Tundra owners. Our son, and his family, had a need for the Ford and camper so gave it to them. The Tundra has a cap over the bed so we've moved from luxury living (in the Alaska camper) to 'backpacking' in the bed of the Tundra -- and enjoying it

Now to the props -- it's a decision each person makes depending upon their tolerances and the use they have for their boats. If you do get ProPulse, make sure you have spare blades!!
 
Everyone is discussing the material of which the props are made. Would you PLEASE, PLEASE also post the diameter and pitch. that's a lot more informative than the material. Obviously SS, Al and plastic all work for different people.

But what size are those props?

Boris
 
Boris, You can get most props of varying sizes in all the different materials. The nice thing about the Pro-Pulse composite prop is that you buy the one diameter for your engine, but can change the pitch easily for varyous activities, e.g., heavy loads, trolling, best economy, skiing, etc..

Your pitch and diameter should be stamped on your existing prop and is often listed in the sales invoice of the boat itself.

John
 
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