Prince William Sound 2010

H

Hunkydory

Active member
I'm in the beginning phase of planning a road trip to Valdez, Alaska and cruise on Prince William Sound. For the Inland Passage the best route planning and overall view map that we could find is made by Don Douglass and Reanne Hemingway Douglass and sold by Fine Edge and called The Inland passage route planning map. It came in two sections north and south. Fine Edge sells a similar map by the Douglass's for PWS and is in east and west sections. They are somewhat pricey and before buying was wondering what others use for that area and if so how they might compare.

Also for those that frequent the PWS do you have any must see Inlets, Islands, coves or anchorages that I could add to our list for cruising. At this point hope to circle the sound with majority of time spent in the Montague and Hinchinbrook Island area. Fishing will be done but is a low priority with main aim exploring to see wild life and the beauty of the area.

In 2000 Jo-Lee and I made a road trip to the PWS area with a ferry ride from Valdez to Cordova where we had a great time in the Copper River Delta area. From there it was the Ferry to Whittier and then road trip back south via a Alaska Ferry ride down the Inland passage. This was in Sept with lots of rain in the PWS and still had wonderful trip. Have been hoping to return ever since, but never dreamed it might be to explore area in our own boat.

Would make every effort to attend a CD Gathering if you Alaskans have one in July 2010.

Jay
 
My favorite book of all time on PWS is the Cruising Guide to PWS. It is very well written, has almost every nook and cranny anchorage you can imagine, several maps, and was almost impossible to find until the new edition was printed this year. I have heard they are readily available now. Perhaps the local library could wet your whistle...

As far as the cool areas, they a number of them that are really good. I personally love the area around Knight Island, Bainbridge Passage, Green Island, the collection of glaciers in College Fjord, and a number of others. One could spend five summers cruising PWS and only touch a small part of it. While it is rare that I get over to the East side that it looks like you will be focussing your trip in, it is not nearly as rugged, wild, or scenic as the West side. Of course that is just my opinion. Both sides certainly have a multitude of things to offer.

But if you are coming all this way, there is some great cruising around Seward that you really should consider. I know everyone worries about the seas and yadda, yadda, yadda, in the North Gulf, but I go out and explore those outer fjords all the time in the summer when the seas are placid. Don't get me wrong, it is less protected, but it is a true wilderness in a temperate rainforest with few travelers with lots of marine wildlife, goats, bears, and very good fishing. Some of my favorites on the North Gulf are Granite Island, Day Harbor, Aialik Bay, and Harris Bay. Like PWS there are dependable anchorages, but there are fewer of them.

At any rate, I hope this helps and PM me if you need anything else.

Tim
 
Jim

The cruising guide I have now is "A Cruising Guide to Prince William Sound" by Jim and Nancy Lethcoe. Is this the one you mentioned and if not who is the author of the one you did. Would sure make it easier to get at the library or order through Amazon Books.

All the places you mentioned were on my list but thought by looking at the map that Montaque and Hinchinbrook were about the outer edge of the Sound and the reason for my interest in them. Also read the Montague Strait between Montaque Island and the Knight Island group is a favorite for the whales of many varieties in June and July, but really don't know so that is why asking for advise. Like our other trips hope to spend the majority of time in the most remote places.

Have considered the Seward area and debating on going for it from the Sound, but wondered if I might be reaching to far. The Fjords around there are high on my list of places to see. Like I mentioned this is all in the early planning stage and I could still end up starting out on the cruise in Seward.

Sure appreciate the info,

Jay
 
We have made the trip from Whittier to Cordova and back each of the last three years. The east side of PWS is the least crowded and seems to have the most wildlife in the summer (whales, otters, sea lions) while the west side has the most bays, islands, passages, and scenery. We have made the southerly crossing along Hawkins, Hinchinbrook, and Montague Island. It was nice place to stop on the way to Knight Is, La Touche Is, and southwest part of the sound. This is the area where you can spend of lot of time and not backtrack very much.

Gas is a big issue. Rumor has it you can get it at Chenega Bay, but you have to bring your own gas can.

Keep us up on your schedule. I am pretty sure we'll be doing the trip to Cordova again and plan to spend a fair amount of time in the La Touche, and Bainbridge Passage area.
 
Jay,

The book you have is the right one. I have made the trip from Seward to Whittier to Valdez on several occasions and with a decent weather window it is very doable. In my opinion, due to weather forecasing purposes, it is best done from the Seward side of things. In fact, as I boat out of Seward a LOT, there are a number of high pressure days that you can just about go wherever you want to. Sure there is some swell, but things are not really that bad. Nor are you ever truly ever alone anymore as even when I go halibut fishing in my favorite spots over in Johnstone Bay to Cape Puget there are always boats around. One of them is a fellow brat out of Seward in his Tomcat. The issue that somebody else pointed out is gas and I bring an extra 32 gallons of fuel just in case I need it. You probably bring extra gas too.

While I have seen whales in PWS, there seems to be far more of them cruising the the North Gulf's Fjords than there are in the sound. Sure you find many in PWS, and on some trips they seem to be everywhere, but they consistently seem to be everywhere milling around in the outers areas you suggested, and the areas around Seward; especially around the outer Ressurrection Bay, Day Harbor, Chiswells, and beyond. In fact as I am writing this, I am trying to think of a trip that I have not seen a whale in Seward. Maybe when I didn't go out in the boat? lol....

If it were my trip I would hit PWS hard and see what you want to see staying in the Sound. I personally would hit the east side of the sound from Valdez and the west side from Whittier as it just makes logistical sense. Then, I would load the boat up and drive over to Seward and check out Ressurrection Bay, Kenai Fjords National Park, Day Harbor, and other areas on the North Gulf Coast out of Seward. Truth be told, they both deserve their own trip in my opinion. Time left? Well you better go check out Lower Cook Inlet down by Homer. It is worth a look too as it is pretty cool too.

Have a good one.

Tim
Hunkydory":1dievvzm said:
Jim

The cruising guide I have now is "A Cruising Guide to Prince William Sound" by Jim and Nancy Lethcoe. Is this the one you mentioned and if not who is the author of the one you did. Would sure make it easier to get at the library or order through Amazon Books.

All the places you mentioned were on my list but thought by looking at the map that Montaque and Hinchinbrook were about the outer edge of the Sound and the reason for my interest in them. Also read the Montague Strait between Montaque Island and the Knight Island group is a favorite for the whales of many varieties in June and July, but really don't know so that is why asking for advise. Like our other trips hope to spend the majority of time in the most remote places.

Have considered the Seward area and debating on going for it from the Sound, but wondered if I might be reaching to far. The Fjords around there are high on my list of places to see. Like I mentioned this is all in the early planning stage and I could still end up starting out on the cruise in Seward.

Sure appreciate the info,

Jay
Click to expand...
 
Jay,

Both Tim and Tom have good advice, there is indeed a lot to see and you’ll only hit the highlights. A lot of time can be spent running between land masses, and a lot can be missed. The costal area between Valdez and Whittier is full of spectacular scenery and wildlife, we’ve hit this area hard the last two seasons, so take your time through this area.

Since you have A Cruising Guide to Prince William Sound, visit Jim’s favorite spot on Glacier Island. If you choose, a hike will take you to the high point of the island that offers a 360 degree vista.

Perry Island is a favorite for use because it’s centrally located, has great anchorages, no bears, and offers great hiking.

We travel to shore almost every day when we’re on the sound, the Cruising Guide has lots of suggestions to offer here. A hand held GPS is a most on the islands if you plan on exploring, everything starts looking the same after a while and it’s easy to get disoriented.

This last year we extended out and took at least 4 gas cans most trips, 6 when we spent a week at the Green Island Cabin. The only draw back to Montague is its 70 to 80 miles from fuel, so exploring this area in one trip is tough unless you cruise at displacement the whole time, we never have the time.

For more information and helpful tips go here: http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/index.php

Since your not an Alaska resident I’m not sure if you can shrimp, man that would be too bad if you couldn’t. Definitely check out the regs on that because the season is open all season long and you can pull the pots with a buoy if you don’t have a puller.

Let me know when your plans take more shape, a little Brat gathering would be great.

Jay
 
Sure getting lots of good information. Even though retiring this year am still going to be somewhat restrained on time. Originally had planned on heading north in mid to late May now with news of first grandchild being due mid June will probably be shortly after baby's arrival before leaving, so Tim, I think this year will stick to PWS with cruising out of Seward another year to really look forward to. Due to not really wanting to deal with the August fog plan to be exploring the Yukon lakes by then, so only leaves July for this year on the Sound. So far our worst or I thought most hazardous periods were fog related on the Inland Passage. Any of you had bad experiences with the August fog and do you tend to skip cruising on the Sound then?

Planned on carrying an extra 40 gal of fuel. On the Inland Passage have made it as much as 50 extra gallons. The cruising guide says you can purchase fuel at New Chenega. Was the reason none of you ever purchased fuel there due to high cost or no need due to carrying extra. I had planned on staying for an extended period in that general area and hoped to refuel there before continuing on slowly to Montaque, Green, Hinchinbrook and Hawkins to Cordova. Should be able to cut back considerable on fuel use by anchoring and then exploring on Mokai motorized kayak that can go over 100 miles on 3 gallons.

Know not to go ashore at Old Chenega, but do plan on seeing from water this site where 23 lives were lost and Village destroyed by 70 foot wave during l964 earthquake. Also where the land on the far western tip of Montaque Island actually raised over 30 feet during the quake.

Will do some hiking and even with much backwoods experience have got very fond of the gps, so will sure take your advice, Jay. Also checked out the website you gave for tips and will be spending more time there.

As the summer nears will keep in touch to see if possible for a gathering even if its only just a quick meet up in one of those beautiful coves. Was something how the five of you came together unplanned in Cordova this year. Jo-Lee and I are pretty much loners most of the time, but amazing how social we can be after spending a period of time out in the wild & scenic remote.

Jay
 
Jay,

I think the reason that no one has purchased fuel at Chenega is that we haven't heard of anyone who's tried. I plan to try it next year to see what happens.
 
Congratulation Jay on your first expected Grandchild, our only child is 9 so that day will be a ways off.

You can enjoy the sound from early April to mid September and beyond if you’re hardcore. This year we only had two occurrences were fog was an issue, and I don’t have radar...yet We had to stay put for about an hour while the fog burned off once, and had a long trip back from Glacier Island in August do to fog. The previous year fog wasn’t a problem at all.
Early August offers some of the best fishing with Silvers and Halibut coming closer in.

In early April to mid May we put up with cold and rain because we’re hard-up to get out on the water, but come mid September when shrimping season ends and the weather becomes less predictable we’re ready call it a season.

Wow, the whole month of July, I’m jealous as hell. Have not spent any time in around New Chenega or old Chenega, it’s on our list next year. Someone on the Alaska outdoor forum should know if you can buy gas there.

Your approach is a leisurely one and definitely the way to go. Our Modus operandi is hightail it out 50 to 70 miles..Spend a couple of days..Hightail it back. We usually put between 120 and 180 miles on the boat each trip.

BTW, If you haven’t used it, Google earth is a great tool for mapping out trips and estimating distances using the ruler tool.
 
I've enjoyed renting a cabin on PWS in the past. Sometimes it's a nice break from the boat during rainy weather (not that that ever happens in PWS). Both the state and the Feds have public use cabins for rent up to 6 months in advance:
http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks/cabins/pws.htm

For the forest service cabins you can go to this web site: http://www.recreation.gov/ and search for prince william sound. The ones close in to whittier are popular, and fill up fast, but the further away from town (and gas) you get, the more they seem to be available.

Jim
 
May is best for weather followed by June. Later than that can be nice but you can also have "some weather". Use NOAA site for good information, ve watch it daily most of the year and it has helped us understand the trends. (great planning aid)
Better not get too excited about shrimping as a non resident, they could be expensive. However many of us shrimp and Id have no problem giving up a couple gallons of tails, all you have to do is find me!
Ve are out of whittier for a week at a time in April, May, June and July before moving to Seward for August & September. When time get's closer P.M if you have interest!
Martin
 
Warren, this trip north we will be traveling in relative luxury. Truck camper with all the amenities towing the CD. Many past trips north in small van towing RIB with many losing battles fighting the mosquitoes. They even found there way into the CD in droves until we located and plugged every access hole. Always in the past every mile whether in boat or vehicle has been a battle against time with us again seemingly always on the losing end. Going to be wonderful to travel and cruise as breausaw Jay said in a "leisurely" way. Plan on starting trip going due north with first night in Yellowstone Park bidding a temporary good by to Yellowstone John his wife Edna and the other many friends we have made their at the Bridge Bay Marina. From there it will be through Missoula, Baniff and Jasper Parks, Prince George, the Cassiar Highway to the Alaska Highway then the turn off at Tok, Alaska to Glennallen and finally Valdez a total of over 3000 miles. Going back south it will probably be through Washington, State to Northern Calif and then straight back to Wyoming.

Tom, think we will check into Chenega with plenty of fuel to continue on, but if they have it there will explore the Bainbrige to Latouche Island area thoroughly.

Jay, good to hear your opinion of the August weather. Will see how it goes may end up with more time on the Sound and less or none this year on the Yukon Lakes. I have been using the Google Earth, mileage tool already for estimating fuel needs. Found it a very useful addition to Google Earth.

Jim, thanks for the links to the cabins. Think this could be a great way to take a brake from the boat especially with Having our Mokai. As my times frames are more nailed down will look into reservations. Did you have someone drop you off or access with friends boat? Sure enjoyed your tale of 2005 Inland Passage Adventure. Have read it several times.

Martin, thanks for the shrimp offer. Tails or not will give a PM when the time nears due to definite interest in meeting Alaskan C-Brats. Thanks too for the NOAA suggestion. Does sound like a good planning aid.

Jay
 
Hunkydory":ntdl2ety said:
So far our worst or I thought most hazardous periods were fog related on the Inland Passage. Any of you had bad experiences with the August fog and do you tend to skip cruising on the Sound then?
Jay
Click to expand...

Hell NO!! Fog shows up when ever it pleases 12 month's all year long. Anchor & wait or buy radar :wink: Also lots of un charted rocks in the sound. Always watch where you are going.(when the chart says local knowledge only they mean it) I spent july 19 - 24 anchored on the Lee side of an island testing my anchor in 65kn wind gust's (70' vessel anchored behind me had a weather station on board as did the 110' tender anchored behind them :wink: ) Always be PREPARED!!! don't get in a hurry, leave lots of time for mother nature! Have a great trip!!
 
Tsturm, all sounds like good advice to me. Have radar and have been in situation where there was no place to anchor for refuge without continuing on very hazardous route with thick fog, ice, current and the possibility of other boats in channel with the fog, ice and current. To to hit with fog I know is just another factor that must be dealt with if wanting to cruise Alaska waters anytime. My point for asking about August fog was what was the chance of heavy fog over extended periods of time. Would just as soon be cruising somewhere else if that was the case. With the advice given by you and your other fellow Alaskans I'm no longer concerned about the fog and know too that storms like you described can come in at any time. Went through several of these while cruising the Alaska Chichagof Island area in 2007.

Jay
 
Prince William Sound is definitely on the list of places I'd like to go someday. Tom, I especially like your photos of backcountry skiing from your boat. A couple summers ago I took the C-Dory to Squamish and then skied a day on the glacier at Whistler, but that's nothing like skiing from the boat in PWS!

Is there any way to get across the Gulf of Alaska in a C-Dory without a trailer? Aside from the obvious potential for nasty weather in the Gulf, I'd be very worried about fuel on the crossing. I remember reading about a relatively small SeaSport that did the crossing, but it was about 28 feet with twin diesel power as a recall, faster and with longer range than a C-Dory. Perhaps this trip is one that's better to do in a future boat ...but I think a new trailer would be cheaper than a new boat...
 
It could be done, but it won't be by me. I much prefer the road trip to that much open ocean. The longest stretch between fuel I believe would be from Yakutat to Cordova approximately 250 miles. In 2007 when we were in Pelican, Alaska waiting for gales to clear on outer coast of Chichagof Island met a 70 year old guy waiting on the same weather as us to head for Yakutat then Valdez via Cordova single handed. I know his boat was a Bayliner with single screw diesel and I think a 27 footer. He had already hit bad weather on way up from Sitka which stirred up junk in the fuel tank causing him to change filters in difficult conditions. Seemed very nonchalant about the trip. Never heard news of his not making it so assume He did.

Jay
 
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