Posi-Lock Connectors

C

Casey

New member
Sometimes an electrical installation is simple, and other times it requires a electrical connection that isn't very handy. Like most, I've used crimp connectors, wire twists and tape, and sometimes even solder to make a good connection.

I recently ran across Posi-Lock Connectors ( http://www.posi-lock.com/ ). I haven't tried them yet - but plan to. Here's an evaluation from a motorcycle site ( http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-mo ... posi-lock/ ) that rated them highly; and motorcycles present a pretty challenging environment for electrical stuff (mega vibration, moisture, cramped wiring situations, etc.).

Has anyone tried Posi-Locks?

Casey
C-Dory Naknek
 
Casey-

Haven't tried these, but, assuming they're as good as advertised, two comments come to mind.

They may be a bit bulky around electrical panels and some connectors, where the space is often pretty tight.

The factory packages are $30 for 30-45 connectors, depending on the size. Purchasing a usable asssortment would be prohibitive for the average individual. Hopefully, one would be able to find a auto, marine, or motorcycle shop that would stock them and sell them individually.

Also, I'm still wondering how salt water would affect them if allowed to get down into the interior of the connectors. Perhaps a dielectric grease could be added to the junction area.

Joe.
 
Sea Wolf":2dzd8hsv said:
The factory packages are $30 for 30-45 connectors, depending on the size. Purchasing a usable asssortment would be prohibitive for the average individual.Hopefully, one would be able to find a auto, marine, or motorcycle shop th at would stock them and sell them individually.
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I may be suffering from OldTimers, Joe, but I think Walmart carries them in small quantities. I found them in the auto parts area but not in the normal connectors spot. Our Walmart had them near the RV section. Bought a few but haven't tried them yet. If I remember correctly, they were in packages of two or three and in various sizes.
 
Marine connectors are usually nickel plated, automotive fastiners are not...same with marine quality wire...it costs more but does not corrode like copper (automotive) core wire.

Anytime a connector is used a film of silicone grease should be applied...(not silicone sealer) It is sold at West Marine but is really expensive...if you can catch the phone guy or the cable guy in your backyard you can always get them to give it to you fer free,....same stuff..anytime they make a connection at the pole they use silicone grease...keeps out water and insures a corrosion free connection. They get the stuff in 1 oz. tubes and only use a tiny bit...my guy gave me a handfull of the tubes.

Joel
SEA2PO
 
A marine electrician that I used suggested Waytek wire as a source for all things electrical. I ordered and used some grease filled crimp-on connectors for light instrument connections. See bottom of this page.
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/ ... 19_026.pdf
They are very small and compact, easily installed with needle nose pliers.
Their catalogue has many boat applicable items. They have an electrical tape that seals like shrink wrap for waterproof connectors.
 
Normally I don't like crimp-on connectors......but I bought some of those from West Marine and they worked super... sometimes you can't solder the connection...

I bought a tiny propane soldering iron at West Marine...it is filled like a cigarette lighter and is about the size of a fat ink pen....works well and perfect for use onboard... kinda expensive but well worth it... I also bought some shrink tubing at Fry's....lots of different sizes and in long tubes...

Joel
SEA3PO
 
I drive mixer truck for cadman in seattle and as you can imagine the trucks see a lot of mud and water on the road and at the plant. our mechanic uses a ele. grease that comes in a spray can. has a long straw on one end and you just spray in to the connector before inserting the wires. I do not know the name of the product or were he gets it but will find out after my trip.
 
You can get small amounts of silicone grease in the plumbing dept at Home Depot, it is used for faucets, etc. and comes in about a 1oz. can. Any plumbing supplier should have it.
 
Agree with silicone grease--and there are many less expensive sources than WM.

Crimping is the proper way on a boat--not soldering. Soldering, unless well supported leaves a brittle connection (I really like soldering, but not on boat wiring). Soldering is generally not to ABYC standards.

Crimping should be done with quality ratchet crimpers, which catch both the wire and the insullation. The best connectors are heat shrink, adhesive filled. These rarely if ever fail when done properly. Agree that all boating wire and connectors should be tinned.

I carry crimpers on the boat, along with an assortment of connectors of all sizes and types. Not sure that I see a reason for a diffrent connector than the standard.
 
Here's a product of synthetic lubricant that works as a diaelectric grease and water proof lubricant: SUPER LUBE.

prodcts.jpg


I use the paste like clear lubricant in the left two tubes.

We used in in high vacuum work in school. The silicone based grease has no vapor pressure, hence doesn't dry out. Worked great on racing sailboats, such as on suction bailers, and also on powerboats, such as on propshafts.


Works great in plumbing washers and valves. Appears harmless to most rubber and neoprene like products.


It can be bought in most hardware stores.

The big calking gun sized tube lasts years for about $7-8 as I remember.

Joe.
 
I have found in most cases I use a wire nut( what I call it) filled with liquid tape. I cannot imagine a better connection for most applications.
built in stress relief, VERY tight , and impervious to moisture, vibration.




James
 
For what it is worth ABYC does not allow the use of Wire nuts--and most surveyors will make you remove them and redo the splices.
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Interesting, maybe because most do not fill them with liquid electric tape.
I would not use them either if not for the hermetically sealing propertys of the the liq. tape.

I would like for someone to explain to me the deficiencies of such a electric connection.

James
 
of course, if I need a inline joint, I will reluctantly use a butt connection, then back fill the openings with liquid tape also.


James
 
A wire nut is often used in household wiring, where there is solid wire. Boat wiring is fine stranded (finer than automotive for the most part). There is less chance of both a good bite by the spiral spring in the wire nut, and of comming loose with vibration with a wire nut. The wire nut uses the wire to support the splice--a proper crimp uses the insullation to support the wire and splice. Liquide tape is good--but heat shrink with adhesive is better--it gives a better bond and better support.

Wire nuts for houses.

Crimped connectors for boats.
 
I guess my concern with crimped joints in a wet environment (ie bilge pump) has been with moisture intruding into the connection.
Good point though, I never thought about the stranded vs solid wire factor.

James
 
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