Permatrim

R

rbfconstruction

New member
Joined
Sep 19, 2017
Messages
126
Reaction score
0
Hi, I was just reading the thread on 1986 22 advice and did not want to hi jack it. I have a 19 angler with a 75 yammi. The wind chop is everyday in the afternoon. I slow down, but between chop and swell, getting on plane is a slapper (so I slow down further of course). My question is.... Should I get a permatrim. Admittedly I seldom use my trim tabs as I thought they are for keeping the boat level and not for getting on plane. I guess my true thought is any additional smooth would be RAD. Thank you in advance

Richard

Cannot tell you how many peeps compliment me on the c dory. I agree.
 
Richard,
Being originally from San Diego, the sea conditions you mentioned are familiar. Both of my 22' Cruisers had single outboard engines and both were equipped with "Permatrims". A Permatrim improves performance in several ways. One is to get the boat up on plane quicker by "ducting" the engines thrust. If you decide to install one, don't settle for any other brand than the "Permatrim". It is designed and manufactured in New Zealand. www.permatrimmarine.co.nz
 
Hi Richard. I put on permatrim right after I bought the boat before I even used it. Trim tabs only used to level the boat side to side otherwise they are always fully retracted & trim the bow with permatrim. Like everyone else, can’t say anything bad about it. Wouldn’t go with anything but permatrim!!
 
We have found that using both Permatrim and trim tabs are almost essential to get the best ride and performance out of. The momhull c dorys.
 
I have had my 22 Cruiser for 12 years now, running twins and trim tabs. I do think the Permatrim is a great adjunct, but since I have trim tabs, I use them to help pop the stern, getting up on plane easily even though I run a stern heavy boat. I use the trim tabs quite frequently to mitigate chop, pushing the bow down and cutting the waves for a smooth(er) ride. See the pix of the aft rack and the inflatable carried over the cockpit instead of on the cabin roof.

Your 19 has a shorter hull length so...... you are going to need some boost to get up onto plane position. Your 75 is none too powerful, so any extra lift you provide will help. You have options, move weight forward, especially if it is movable weight, (crew, cooler, etc) or, ad some lifting device. Permatrim would be easy, and cheap compared to adding trim tabs. AND the Permatrim will add stern lift. It will not, however, work to raise either port or starboard sides for balance. SO, you could start with the Permatrim, then if that doesn't provide enough lift for your satisfaction, then consider the trim tabs.

Or you could go with an Armstrong Bracket to add stern floation, waterline length and lift.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
thataway":24o16292 said:
We have found that using both Permatrim and trim tabs are almost essential to get the best ride and performance out of. The momhull c dorys.
Click to expand...

That has been my experience also :wink:
I will never own another boat without trim tabs.
YMMV :mrgreen:
 
I too wouldn’t want to be without trim tabs. To offset the stern heavy characteristics of the 19; I put appx 100 lbs of lead under the anchor rode & a group 30 aux battery in v berth storage. Works great & I don’t need to use both permatrim & trim tabs to lift the stern, just permatrim.
 
Remember all....."Permatrim" and "trim tabs" are not the same thing.....but they are related
 
Thank you all for the help. I will be purchasing the permatrim as it sounds like a no brainer. Harvey, sorry I didn't mention, I do have trim tabs. I must admit, I rarely use them. My thought was that they would put too much extra resistance on my 75. Thanks again everyone.

Richard
 
My CD-22 Cruiser behaved much better after I

1. added a hydrofoil,
2. put 100 feet of 1/4" chain (74 lbs.) in the anchor locker
3. added a windlass (15 lbs.) on the deck above,
4. added a bow roller and anchor (20 lbs) on the bow, and
5. added two group 27 batteries 130 lbs.) under the port forward dinette seat.
(Total 239 lbs +)

When in doubt, balance the boat.

With modern 4-stroke motors and heavy cruising loads and big loads of gas, these boats are out of whack compared to their original design parameters. And especially so in respect to the 259 lb 70 hp 2-stroke engine of the 1980's vs the typical 370 lb 90 hp 4-stroke of today, and more so with twins, or with the addition of a kicker.

Moreover, the CD-19 hull is the exact same as the 22 with 3 feet cut off*, and tends to porpoise up and down on it's own until you add a hydrofoil and trim tabs to control it. (Ask Bill/Will Guise, one of out moderators, as he was the owner of the first CD-19 made, and the first to discover the "Bouncing Betty Syndrome".

All of which means you need to balance the boat loading fore and aft, and add a hydrofoil and trim tabs. This gets you more planing surface aft to promote early planing, allows you to control fore aft trim, and forces the bow down to cut through chop.

* YMMV, but I think the decision to simply cut off 3 feet from the CD-22 hull was a design/engineering mistake, an over-simplification that didn't work out right in practice.

Just my thoughts and experiences on the matter.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Back
Top