I certainly agree with Les, and that is the way we set up both long range cruising boats--and our Tom Cat. But with the C Ranger 25--one has to decide if the boat is a slow trawler or going to be a planing boat. I haven't seen fuel burn numbers yet--but I suspect that at a semidisplacment speed of 10 to 13 knots the boat will not be overly effecient.
A buyer has to make the decision when he rigs the boat if he is going to want a slow or fast boat. The weight of this boat will be critical--and if it is used for any long range cruising, will most likely remain a displacement speed boat, so an ample amount of batteries can be put in.
There are a couple areas where I might give a different opinon than Les.
One is windlass and thruster draw. The amount of current drawn by these will be a very small amount in any one day. The thruster may be used occasinally for docking--maybe a minute or two max. Windlass, uses less power and may be for several minutes. One does not drag a boat to the anchor with a windlass, or break out an anchor with a windlass--the boat does that. The windlass only takes up the slack and lifts the weight of the anchor/chain from the bottom. If one goes for an inverter, then larger banks of batteries are definately needed. The other choice--and it is lighter, but may involve another fuel--is a gas generator.
The Yanmar series used has 60 (optional 80) amp alternator, but I don't know how good the regulator is.
Agree on separate batteries for electronics--in my Tom Cat the electronics can only be switched to the starting battery manually in case of an emergncy--an ACR handles charging of the two house banks. (two separate batteries (which can be combined), either of which will handle the electronics)
All of the inverters I have rigged have had a 30 amp transfer switch. However the accepted way to wire an inverter is to split the 120 volt buss bar to isolate the water heater and battery charger, so that these cannot be accidently run off the inverter. If an inverter had a 15 amp transfer switch, one would certainly split the buss bar to avoid using the water heater and battery charger (and I would also leave at least one 120 volt plug for a resistive heater).
A buyer has to make the decision when he rigs the boat if he is going to want a slow or fast boat. The weight of this boat will be critical--and if it is used for any long range cruising, will most likely remain a displacement speed boat, so an ample amount of batteries can be put in.
There are a couple areas where I might give a different opinon than Les.
One is windlass and thruster draw. The amount of current drawn by these will be a very small amount in any one day. The thruster may be used occasinally for docking--maybe a minute or two max. Windlass, uses less power and may be for several minutes. One does not drag a boat to the anchor with a windlass, or break out an anchor with a windlass--the boat does that. The windlass only takes up the slack and lifts the weight of the anchor/chain from the bottom. If one goes for an inverter, then larger banks of batteries are definately needed. The other choice--and it is lighter, but may involve another fuel--is a gas generator.
The Yanmar series used has 60 (optional 80) amp alternator, but I don't know how good the regulator is.
Agree on separate batteries for electronics--in my Tom Cat the electronics can only be switched to the starting battery manually in case of an emergncy--an ACR handles charging of the two house banks. (two separate batteries (which can be combined), either of which will handle the electronics)
All of the inverters I have rigged have had a 30 amp transfer switch. However the accepted way to wire an inverter is to split the 120 volt buss bar to isolate the water heater and battery charger, so that these cannot be accidently run off the inverter. If an inverter had a 15 amp transfer switch, one would certainly split the buss bar to avoid using the water heater and battery charger (and I would also leave at least one 120 volt plug for a resistive heater).