now I know why my brakes were not working

M

Mike_J

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C Dory Year
2011
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Hull Identification Number
CMC22005A1111
Vessel Name
Natural C-lection
I figured out a few days ago that the brakes on my trailer were not working, but it was not until today that I figured out why. (I launched the boat and put it on the mooring for a few days). The pictures in this album show it all...

https://picasaweb.google.com/107085...authkey=Gv1sRgCNHA7Z6CheqPvAE&feat=directlink
3 out of the 4 hydraulic connections had broken off the drums!

Any suggestions on fixing these? I have a feeling that the connections may have broken on our way to Kyuquot as we had 70 km each way on dirt roads...
 
Mike,

Not sure I could see the breaks but you can buy flexible brake lines, they will take the stresses of rough road better. Try "Tie Down" brand. When you install them you will need to bleed all four brakes. It is a pain with surge brakes but can be done. We can talk at Sidney if you like.
 
Sounds like a plan. I won't be using the trailer for another week or two (though the truck seems to handle the dory by itself pretty well!)
I think flexible brake lines will be the answer for this one.
 
It looks as if there was really no support. We use electrical Zip ties for tubing support. Also we have used the plastic tubing in our several most recent brake systems. I have been using disc brakes on the last 4 boat trailers. It will be interesting to see how the drums, cylinders and shoes look when you tear them down. When was the last tear down?

Sorry you had those problems...but fortunate you didn't need to stop in an emergency!
 
Mike and Monica,
As noted already, it is obvious that the line broke, because the brake line was not supported on the axle (the brass fitting that connects the metal line once had a fastener between it and the axle). Fortunately the fix is simple and you can reinstall steel lines as existing, or upgrade your existing lines to stainless to eliminate future rusting. You can also buy synthetic brake lines, but UV can still be a problem for those lines if the trailer sees lots of sun.
I noted the same fastener failure on my trailer several weeks ago and after inspecting the drum brakes decided to put them in the trash and replace them with disc. My boat trailer is used primarily in salt water and rinsing the interior of the drums after use does a poor job on getting a true cleaning of the unprotested bare steel parts. The disc brakes are open with stainless rotors, so rinsing after use will be an easer chore. I did this yesterday and the kits are very easy to install (even the bearings are pre-greased...). Today I'm installing stainless lines and a reverse lock-out solenoid and a few other details to finish up the job.
 
Sometimes salt water corrosion plays a part in the brake tubing's failure. We used to coat the steel tubing that came out of the end of the flexible hose with water proof wheel bearing grease to delay the corrosion process. I also used grease around the base of the brake bleeders. It never seemed to hurt.
D.D.
 
Hi Mike. If it is a Road Runner trailer like mine give Mike a call at Road Runner in Richmond. A month ago the rear leaf spring busted and the axle was sticking out the back of the trailer. Not good !!! He was very helpful and I ended up getting Chris at Forsch Marine rebuilding everything.
 
Thanks for the heads up Terry. I will check with them.

I have realised that salt water may have entered the drums through the hydraulic tube holes, since I have launched several times since the tubes were likely broken. This may be the time to switch to disc brakes!
 
Thanks Bob, Trailers with brakes are a new experience for me. They have not been torn down yet as the trailer was new less than a year ago.
I think I will need to get the drums looked at and if they are damaged, I will switch to discs.

thataway":2s2oq4ss said:
It looks as if there was really no support. We use electrical Zip ties for tubing support. Also we have used the plastic tubing in our several most recent brake systems. I have been using disc brakes on the last 4 boat trailers. It will be interesting to see how the drums, cylinders and shoes look when you tear them down. When was the last tear down?

Sorry you had those problems...but fortunate you didn't need to stop in an emergency!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the advice, Steve. I am probably going to switch to Discs and also flexible tubing. The trailer does not see a lot of sun. Mostly under the boat and also PNW weather!
I guess I need to figure out if this is a job I want to (or should) do myself!

srbaum":jrfs7ria said:
Mike and Monica,
As noted already, it is obvious that the line broke, because the brake line was not supported on the axle (the brass fitting that connects the metal line once had a fastener between it and the axle). Fortunately the fix is simple and you can reinstall steel lines as existing, or upgrade your existing lines to stainless to eliminate future rusting. You can also buy synthetic brake lines, but UV can still be a problem for those lines if the trailer sees lots of sun.
I noted the same fastener failure on my trailer several weeks ago and after inspecting the drum brakes decided to put them in the trash and replace them with disc. My boat trailer is used primarily in salt water and rinsing the interior of the drums after use does a poor job on getting a true cleaning of the unprotested bare steel parts. The disc brakes are open with stainless rotors, so rinsing after use will be an easer chore. I did this yesterday and the kits are very easy to install (even the bearings are pre-greased...). Today I'm installing stainless lines and a reverse lock-out solenoid and a few other details to finish up the job.
Click to expand...
 
This may come as a surprise to folks, but a lot of the times brake lines rust from the inside out. Obviously, in this case, that wasn't the case as physical forces clearly caused the mess, but brake fluid needs to be flushed every couple of years as water has a way of getting into it. I would not put flexible tubing there on my trailer as they really don't simplify things, or make it more road worthy. Instead, I would secure your hard lines to the axle in a way they don't get damaged. As Bob noted, zip ties are great for securing the hard lines to the axle. In fact, I think it is a practice of many trailer companies to do just that. Personally, I'd rather they are attached to something more permanent than zip ties, but they do work just fine.
 
Use black zip ties. More UV stable. And T.R. is correct; fluid should be flushed/replaced completely every couple of years. Like any fluid, it breaks down, attracts water etc.
 
If you are sticking with drum and not going to disc, this is another good argument for going all electric. :-)
 
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