New Tom Cat owner needs help

J

John S

New member
Hello all,

I just bought a 2000 Tom Cat in Ketchikan, AK and transported it to the Kenai Peninsula for boating from Whittier, Homer, and Seward. One of the reasons I bought this boat was the incredible camaraderie of the owners on this website. The previous sales section was immensely helpful in putting together a proper offer.

I have lot's of questions for fellow Tom Cat owners. I Need lots of help. I'll start with just a few and go from there.

1. Trailer Problems- The previous owner left the boat in the water and only took it out once a year and still all these problems. On the other hand we will be trailering this boat everywhere we go. The trailer is scraping the hull. Removing gel coat. The boat is very hard to launch. The carpet actually looks melted on edges of the bunks in places. In other places the carpet is worn away. So.....what is the secret to making this trailer work. My trailer is a fairly new (2003 model) EZ-loader trailer. Obviously NOT set up properly.
The local Ez-loader dealer is better known for their sales then for their service later, so this is my problem to work thru. The main bunk boards aren't creating the problems. It's the 32" bunks supporting the forward area of the boat creating the problems. These bunks are located in a place where the pontoon starts rising slightly, yet these bunk can only be mounted perfectly horizontal. Although these bunks can be tilted inward, the hull is shaped so that it needs to tilt further inward at the back of the bunk and further outward toward the front. The bunk brackets can't be adjusted like this.
On another trailering subject I'm considering having an extended hitch welded up, like a 3 ft long extender with a trailer ball on the end of it just for launching. By the way, even with moving the axles forward as far as they can go, the trailer is still EXTREMELY tongue heavy.
HELP!!!!

2. Fire Extinguisher Location

This one is easy. Where have you located your fire extinguishers on your Tom Cat? One of mine is mounted inside just above the door horizontally with a big ugly block of wood behind it and another big unfinished block of wood outside for a backing plate. There is another extinguisher located outside the door just slightly to the starboard side above the door mounted horizontally on a block of wood that looks like it used to be a piece of a drawer. Appreciate any input.

3. AM/FM CD Player Speaker location

This boat doesn't have any entertainment on board yet, but soon it will. There aren't many "obvious" places to mount speakers, sure would appreciate any advice on this matter. I thought I might like to put two outside, but don't see anywhere to put them. Inside the cabin, speakers in the back two corners are a possibility.

I will post photos within the next two weeks, I have company coming who want to do lots of fishing.

Thanks,
John
 
Hi John,
Wecome to C-brats.
The Trailer......the single best things you can do are, add bunk slicks, add guide on poles at the aft end of the trailer, and make sure that the tunnel guides are raised high enough that they almost touch the tunnel and are within a half inch or so on either side next to the tunnel face. Look for post or threads that thataway has posted in. Click on his photo link. There is a picture there of the bunk slicks. I have a Magic Tilt trailer and mine are at the rear of the bunks instead of the front. I want to purchase more of the material and line the entire bunk. Spray them down with silicone when the trailers empty, and the launching will be improved alot.
Get the trailer level when loaded with the boat, and hitched to your tow vehicle. I've got a 2001 4x4 supercrew that sits way up in the air, and that keeps the trailer pretty close to the same from the frame to the ground at the front and back. Use a 4 inch rise hitch if necessary.

Fire extingusher.I mounted mine to the cabinet face on the starboard side as you are exiting the cabin. I fits just right and is easy to get to.

Radio/cd mounting....I mounted two strips of mahogany to the ceiling directly under the handholds on the roof, and purchased longer screws to go thru the wood and back into the original holes(I put 5200 under the strips before putting them in place). I purchased a polyplaner radio box, and hung it off of the port strip(I used a screw in everyhole, some people have complained about the bracket breaking). I added a second antenna to the port side for AM/FM, but you can get a splitter for theVHF that others have used without any problems. The ceiling/roof is only about 5/16 of an inch thick compared to the aft cabin bulkhead that is cored with balsa. DON'T TRY SCREWING TO IT. I ran all the wires to the top of the port window and used wire loom attached to the window screws to get the wires to the chase over the berth entrance below the windshield.
The speakers are Polyplaner(similar to anyway) box speakers, 5x9x4(?) deep. I made some blocks from mahogany that have angled faces and are about 7 inches long(think staring at the end of a house with a gable roof). I put screws thru the blocks with 5200 on the back of them and screwed them into the aft bulkhead over the windows on port and starboard. The angled face allows the speakers to be rotated down so they point into the cockpit thru the windows. I'll try and get some pics and add them to my album.
 
I'll second the slicks on the trailer--look at the photos in the Thataway album.

In a boat which has an electronics shelf, many mount the speaker thru this shelf. Another option is in the pannels on each side of the cabin. Or box speakers can be put on the foreward cabin fiberglass supports.
 
Wow guys thanks for the advice. I will definitely check into these bunk slicks. One of the problems with trailering your boat everywhere is that to work on the bunks you have to launch the boat somewhere first. I can't tell you how much it helps to have photos of other peoples trailers from the photo section. We are driving 900 miles on the Alaska Highway to return a truck we rented to get the boat home right now, (the wife's driving) I will get some pictures posted soon though when we get back home.

I did figure out the need for the 6" rise hitch and bought that before towing the boat. I didn't realize it at the time, but we had a terrbile time launching with this hitch. Harbormaster actually had to assist towing our cat off the trailer with his boat while I was at full power in reverse. Next time I need to lower the hitch position for launching to get the bow a little more wet. The previous owner was using the silicone spray trick, so we're already doing that one.

Katkt, I'm going to check out your extinguisher location next to my stove, that may work. Your AM/FM CD installation sounds like some fancy work. I really like the looks of your speaker installation. I wanted sound in the cockpit area, but couldn't figure out where to mount speakers back there. Thanks a lot for getting the photos up so quick. Speaking of the thickness of the fiberglass on the roof. Is it strong enough to support a 225lb guy walking around on it??? or should I keep off?

Thanks again, please keep the advice coming. I have numerous other subjects I would like to discuss on this boat, but I want to work this trailer thing thru first until I have it right.
 
I am a little less than 200 lbs and have no problem walking on the roof of the 255. It does seem a little thiner laminate than the CD 22 cruiser, but I don't see a problem. I am going to beef up the roof in the way of where I am putting in an RV airconditioner (94 lbs)--I will build up the outside with fiberglass, so it is absolutely level, and put in wooden beams on the inside--again so that it maintains the curve of the roof.
 
John,

I'm about 230, and have been on the roof to wash the boat and such. You should be fine. Just don't try to screw into it

The fire extingusher is mounted on the front of the cabinet, on the frame to the right of the right hand cabinet door. There was just enough room there to mount the extingusher between knee high, and the counter top.
I forgot to snap a pic. There is some variation boat to boat you'll have to check to make sure it will work for you. You could keep it over the door. Make a little nicer block, and use screws for the block that will go into the core but not all the way thru the bulkhead. Put some 5200 on the back of the block, and once its screwed in place and sets up mount the ext. to the block.
The bunk slicks should cure 70% of your trouble launching. The Tomcat's heavy enough that its tough to get it to start slipping. See if you can find a steeper ramp to launch from. Some guys will get their boat almost into the water, and after unhooking, back the last bit and tap the brake. Keep a line on it so if it does come off it doesn't go to sea without you. We've got a steep ramp here, and I can get the boat to launch with just the tire on the truck getting wet almost to the bottom of the wheel.

I actually stole the idea for the radio/cd location from one of the other C-Brats, I think it was Brent on the Cygnet. Whoever it was, mounted theirs in about the same place but over the galley. They used the same Polyplaner box. Cruise the photo albums. Most of the people on this site are pretty handy, and have done some really nice work on their boats..
 
HELP

I want to order these bunk slicks first thing Monday morning, but I dont' know which ones to get. One comes in short sections and is supposed to be spaced, another isn't a full 5 1/2" wide. Yet another has ridges on it that the boat rides on. Which ones are you guys using????

Thanks,
John
 
John S":xa6hf9sb said:
HELP

I want to order these bunk slicks first thing Monday morning, but I dont' know which ones to get. One comes in short sections and is supposed to be spaced, another isn't a full 5 1/2" wide. Yet another has ridges on it that the boat rides on. Which ones are you guys using????

Thanks,
John
Click to expand...


See if you can locate the manufacturer of Thataway's trailer on the Web, get a phone number and call them.
Both our trailers have bunk slicks that are a full 8' or close to it and are wide enough to cover both 2x6's at the same time.
I've seen the various choices but have never seen the large ones that are on our trailers.
Oh, and don't be stingy with the info. :D Let us know what you find out.

Good Luck
 
Great boat you bought. I had my fire exten mounted on the port side of the aft cabin wall, just inside the hinge of the door, between the door and the aft port cabin wall window. This also made a great place to hang a wet jacket or coat when I came in out of the nasty weather....and helped keep moister away (from the jackets and coats) from the front sloping windshield. I also loved my cheap 20" box fan....and kept it blowing just about all the time to help the fogging of the windshield issues in cold stuff...when most of my friends were not on the water, it was 20 degrees outside, and I was in my shorts, t-shirts, barefooted, cooking, and loving life on FreeByrd.

Also had box 6x9s mounted in the upper aft corners of the cabin. All the speaker mount fasteners were thru bolted, as I think the fire ext was too???? Humm....gotta see if I have a photo in FreeByrd album on that?? How soon we forget.

Also on the trailer....it was recommended to me and I never got one, but either a 3' or 6' trailer tung extenstion to put between the current trailer tung and your tow vehicle once you have her at waters edge. To me, floating up and off was way easier on my hulls and bottom paint than the drag her off or hitting the brakes. Of course this would mean that you would have to take a minute or two, block the trailer tires good...real good as to prevent the boat from rolling back into the water once you unhooked it...but then.... that might not be a bad idea either... just hook a rope to your trailer to drag your trailer back out... Well... it just would not look profesional...
 
Float On Corporation
1925 98th Ave.
Vero Beach, FL 32966
Phone: (772) 569-4440

You can also contact them by E mail. I am sure that you can find out their source. I suspect that they will be getting much of the C dory business in the SE. Mention that you saw the photo of my trailer and that Wefing's was the dealer.
 
We're still trying to get back home from S.E. AK after dropping our tow vehicle, but I'm following up on every lead you guys give me.

Thanks,
John

I'll post more later. I'm on a borrowed machine in an art gallery while my wife browses.
 
thataway":3qr3u5cx said:
Float On Corporation
1925 98th Ave.
Vero Beach, FL 32966
Phone: (772) 569-4440

You can also contact them by E mail. I am sure that you can find out their source. I suspect that they will be getting much of the C dory business in the SE. Mention that you saw the photo of my trailer and that Wefing's was the dealer.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the Float On phone number Bob. I wandered about on the Majic Tilt site awhile back, and never did see the slicks so I gave it up for a bit. I'm definitely going to move mine forward, and would like to cover the whole bunk.

I called and left a message on your cell Sunday. After I hung up I began to wonder if I left my name :lol: I'll try again, maybe next weekend.

Gordon
 
Call on the home phone. We are in the Book on La Paz. We don't use the cell unless we are out and about.

I am not sure I would cover the entire bunks--you might try the spray on "rollers" by Mary Kate--that alone will make the bunks quite more slippery.

Regards,
Bob
 
I had the same trailer problem.

After months of messing around between C-Dory and EZ Loader, the EZ Loader guys came up with a fix, and Alaska Mining and Diving made the modifications. I have only launched once since that time, and I don't know how well the mods worked.

The trailer scraping the hull is due to straight bunks fitting a hull that is not the same shape in the front as in the stern. The steep part of the hulls rides between the bunks, where the aft part of the hull sits on them.

Send me a message if interested, and I will get you phone numbers and discuss details about the fixes.
 
FishBob, I sent you a PM, I want help!

I called the Float On Corp. today. They only sell there material in 12" wide pieces 3/8" thick and 8' long. They are cutting them to three 32" pieces to fit my front bunks and shipping them to me today. I will have to run them through my table saw to halve them to fit the 5 1/2" wide EZ loader front bunks. They wanted $108 per piece.

I am going to post some photos of my trailer tonight. I would sure appreciate it anyone using this EZ-Loader trailer successfully would tell me if my setup is screwed up. (bolt hole height, width between bunks, etc.)

Oh yeah I bought an 18" hitch extension in Anchorage today, it is the longest I can find up here and I tried everyone. Every little bit should help.

Thanks,
John
 
While waiting for the C-Dory admin to set up my photo album I went ahead and made my own website with my photos.

Go to http://www.tomcat.netfirms.com to check them out. You'll need a high speed connection or lots of patients.

I'm interested in ALL opinions on my current trailer set-up, especially the bracket mounting height compared to others trailers.

Thanks,
John
 
John.... Good luck with your trailer. Take a look at what ever some of the other owners have done. Brent and Dixie on Discovery had a TC24 like the one you have and may have some photo's of their trailer set up. They had it dialed in about as good as you can get it. It truly seems that the trailer for this hull should be way simpler than all the time, money and frustrations that have taken place. Thankfully, C-Dory and EZ-Loader got hooked up and put forth a great effort to improve the hole deal...but...even then, there is nothing like users getting out and using and providing feedback for either EZ-Loader or any other competent trailer builder. Part of what makes this hull such a pain is the heigth off the ground sitting way up in the air. I would still like to see someone build a trailer where the boat sits down between the dual/triple axles which would lower the boat about 12" or more....and would make a great deal of change at the ramp. I have heard it is all about not wanting to get too wide and having to have wide load signs.... Take a look at some of the wide bass boats and their trailers....they are 8.6" beam boats, settled down between the wheel wells.

Also...your site did not load...just the advertisements for others to build similar sites... I do have a good strong, fast DSL hookup. Hummm.

Byrdman
 
I also didn't get anything than an ad for the net service...so something is wrong.

I have given a good deal of throught to lowering boat on the trailer. I don't see any way of doing it, short of a twin axel trailer, with wheels in the very back and in the front. This brings up all sorts of other problems.

I have owned other large (30 foot) Deep V's, and you can get them within 12" of the ground--but that is because of the hull shape, and then let the outter part of the trailer (wheels/fenders) be under the higher chines.

One other method, which I don't think any one has used, is to get a set of relitatively light wheels, with a short axel, and build an "I" Beam with a ball hitch right over the wheels, and a coupler at the other end--6 to 8 feet long; creating a hitch dolly, and use this to back the boat into the water. It would have to be light enough to put in a truck, or support on the front of the trailer.

We went with larger wheels and dual axles, one can go with smaller wheels/tires and tripple axels, but the tripple axle trailers are harder to back, and you ony gain at the most 2" of draft.
 
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