New to me 22

J

J.Will

New member
Well, today I signed the purchase agreement on a 2008 22 cruiser. Hope to wrap up the details and pick it up next week. Trailer has four original tires so that’s the first thing in the list before I can bring it home. Excited to join the club. The boat is “C for Two” previously owned, and well cared for, by forum member Roscoe. Thanks to you folks for keeping such a knowledgeable community together for the benefit of new buyers. All my questions were answered by searching this forum.
 
welcome aboard. Great move to replace the trailer tires. You may want to check the bearings-and @ of grease. Check hub temps every 2 hours or even more frequently since it is an unknown.
 
Thanks for the welcome and trailer tips. I’ll plan to bring my bearing grease gun and spare from my other boat trailer. If I can identify the hub I’d like to pick up a spare to carry with me as well. It’s a six hour drive. The same one we do several times a year and we’ve replaced a few tires on this trip in the past so it’s nice to know you’ve got spare parts. Trailer tires pop, especially in July.
 
J.Will, Congratulations and Welcome from the upper left corner. Seconding the kudos on the tire replacement. If you can, GoodYear Endurance are USA made and have had a good reputation here on the site. If those were original tires, I would get a serious look at the bearings too. Me, I'd just have them replaced from the get go. And I would have the brakes checked too. Since I'm not a mechanic at any level, I want them done by a pro and to know they are good to go before I would start that 6 hour drive. There are probably lots of places along that route where dealing with tire or bearing issues are less easy than in the yard before you leave.

I would also check (make that replace) the tiedowns for the boat onto the trailer too. Then you know you can get it home in one piece.

All the best, be safe and enjoy.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Thanks for the advice, Harvey. My mother in law lives a mile away so I can stay there for the day and get it road worthy. It’s also a roller trailer, which I’ve never owned. I gather things roll off of them easily. I like that bunks offer support and friction.
 
I tend to over kill on the strap down department. A ratchet strap across the cockpit and steps from the eyes in the transom to the frame of the trailer. There may be eye bolts, or tabs with holes bolted on to the trailer frame.

Also double check that the strap on the winch is in good shape, that the chain to an eye bolt on the trailer is good and secure to the bow eye. I probably would carry an extra few feet of chain and be prepared to put that around the winch post/frame as a safety until you have a chance to go over the entire trailer.
 
Cable broke only a few miles from the pick up. Luckily the transporter always has extra straps. Chain did its job and keep the boat from rolling off the trailer.

I replaced the cable with a new strap, extra strap to bottom of trailer. Before heading 3300 miles had all four tires replaced and bearings repacked.
 
Picked up the boat last weekend and took it out for two half day trips. It’s my first boat with trim tabs and they are necessary on this hull. They were helpful in correcting trim and weight changes when people moved seats, as well as keeping the bow down in chop.

I was told by the broker that the gas is last years and stabilized. Still, I got a few water in fuel alarms and one engine or the other stalling out. This weekend I’ll be draining tanks and changing fuel water separators and filter elements under the cowlings.

With two adults, one small child, one baby, 2/3 fuel and ALL the gear associated with keeping kids happy for a day on the water wot was just over 4500 at 25 mph. Sea trial with two adults and same fuel was 4800 and 28 mph. With the family it cruised comfortably on plane from 3000-4000 in the teens and fell off plane below maybe 12-13 mph.

Btw, engines are 2012 Yamaha F50s and have 11 1/4 x 14 pitch props. Seemed like a steep pitch, but definitely has the torque to move the boat however required from idle to up on plane, then rpms and speed climb slowly as if a little over propped. I’m guessing that was the plan/compromise from previous owner for cruising heavy.

Any thoughts on performance/prop selection? This weekend we’ll see what new gas and filters does to it.
 
My twin hondas have 11 1/4 by 13 props and that pushes the boat at around 30 mph at just over 6k rpms - depending on load. I think you'll want more RPMs as these small outboards make their power at 5-6k rpms. On the other hand, if you're happy with it now, I wouldn't worry much about it.
 
Keep in mind that lots of bow down trim from the tabs can have a significant effect on top speed. Need to try to keep the fore/aft load balanced to reduce the requirement for trim.
 
In order to measure WOT speed, you have to trim the boat up, and find the fastest speed available. In chop this is not the most comfortable ride. Also the Permatrim helps to keep the bow down.

You want the WOT to be at least 5500 RPM--and most shoot for 6,000 RPM. If you can reach that with light load, and trim properly for speed, it is OK.
 
Thanks everyone for experienced advice on trim and wot measurement. It’s adequate as is, but after fresh fuel I think I’ll properly measure wot and get some advice from my Yamaha dealer on props if needed. I don’t want to overwork or lug the engines to much.
 
I just tried to drain the gas tanks in my usual method but no luck. I took the fitting/clip off the out board end and gave a few pumps while holding the end below the tanks into an empty gas can. One side got a siphon going but stopped after a couple gallons and nothing came out the other side after a hundred pumps. There was gas in both clear filters under the cowl before I took off the gas lines. When I checked the fuel/water separators just before the bulbs they were full. No leaks that I could find in the lines or fittings. What am I missing?
 
I use an automotive fuel pump. I have barbs on the pump which fit into the lines from the fuel tank. (Also barbs to go from razor Filters to the overboard jerry cans.

Keep the fuel pump off the boat, or get an ignition protected pump ($$$). I use a portable battery, and long enough hoses so no risk of fire near the boat. Put into 5 gallon cans for legal disposal. (Or burn it in an older truck).
 
Thanks Bob, I like that idea. I must have an air leak somewhere in the fuel lines preventing a siphon. That would probably explain why I was experiencing the stalling last weekend. The port side where I couldn’t get fuel to flow at all was the motor that was having more trouble staying running. I’ll dig into it in the morning and hopefully be fishing by the afternoon.
 
Not sure but isn't there a check valve in with line at the ball or at the plug. I have never tried to get the normal fuel lines to run to drain the tanks.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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hardee":e89jrpqx said:
Not sure but isn't there a check valve in with line at the ball or at the plug. I have never tried to get the normal fuel lines to run to drain the tanks.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Sure is....at least most of the time there is an anti-siphon valve in the bulb for obvious safety reasons :-) BOOM BOOM BANG ????
 
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