new carpet for trailer beams

P

patrick and linda

New member
so, my trailer was built to hold a 27' to 29' boat. my boat is 28' loa, however when my boat is on the trailer at least 2 feet stick out beyond the hull. my trim tabs had ripped the carpet because the beams where longer than necessary. so, i removed the 2 beams, which were 3" width, 10" high on one side and 8 3/4" on the other, and approx. 12' long. the beams are higher on one side than the other to accommodate the hull shape. once i had the beams off i removed the poorly installed and very ripped carpet and then cut 2' off each beam. this gives me a much better fit for my boat.
i called our local sea ray dealership to purchase the replacement carpet. i needed approx. 24" wide by 13' long, they only had 12" wide and wanted $2.00 per foot. i could have used the 12" stock, but i wanted to wrap the entire beam, not just a small segment. i asked the service rep where i might get the same carpet but much wider than they had. he said they buy it from lowes and then cut it to 12" widths. bingo! i went to lowes and for $67.00 purchase the very same carpet, 13' long x 6' wide. they even cut it to 24" widths for me. what a deal!
now, the beams where higher on one side than the other and the high side had a sharp edge which helped cut the carpet when the hull applied pressure during loading. so, i sanded the edge down so that this cutting wouldn't happen again, then installed the newly purchased carpet. final product looks great and should hold up well. i used 1/2" wide x 3/4" long staples using a pneumatic senco stapler. i have 2 pictures in my album of the beams. so hope this might help anyone wanting to replace their trailer carpet.
best regards
pat
 
Just finished the same bunk recarpet for the C-Brat last week. Only difference is that I used stainless steel 3/4" staples. Or maybe you also used stainless, you didn't mention the staple material. Lowes really came through.

Also replaced the 2X6 bunks and 2X4 side rails since the rails were badly bowed and the bunks were tired and wouldn't hold staples.

With a C-16, putting a hydraulic jack (suitably padded with a carpeted foot long 2X6) to the stern area on one side lifted the entire boat off the bunk on that side so I didn't even have to take the boat off the trailer though it did cost me three broken bolts to remove the bunk itself. Lowes breaker bars work too. :lol:

Don
 
HI DON,
great idea on raising the boat to remove the bunk! well, i didn't use ss staples although i probably should have. i figure the capet will wear out before the staples will rust through, and the whole process will be repeated.
the purpose of posting this replacement was to show others that if you have the tools, which could be nothing more than a hammer and staples or a screwdriver and screws, and knowledge of where to purchase the carpet, anyone could do the work themselves and save a bundle! congrats to you and little old me!
best regards
pat
 
Hey Pat, good on ya. Your tutorial is needed and I'm sure it'll be welcome. I happened to own a cheap air stapler (Harbor Freight) so I ordered a box of stainless staples just to have them around. Galvanized probably work as well.

You have a special situation with those beams. Most C-22's and smaller use simple 2X6 bunks with 2X4 guide rails. Easy to do. If Lowes isn't available, Pacific Trailer sells 15" wide carpet strips for the 2X6 and 11" for the guides fairly cheap via their online catalog.

The only hint I can add to your well thought out description: The smaller C-Dory bunks are usually attached via an adapter connected to the frame. The adapter is fixed to the frame but swivels at the bunk mounting bolt. Most dealers don't bother to adjust or fine tune them and one side of the bunk itself ends up wearing faster than the other. Since I replaced all the mounting bolts, I left the bolts loose until both bunks were covered and the boat back on the bunks. The weight of the boat itself "fine tunes" the adjustment so all one has to do is tighten the mounting bolts and yer in business.
 
Regarding non-corrosive staples, I believe the preferred material for marine use is Monel, not stainless or galvanized.

They are commonly available for Arrow brand staplers, and probably most others.

Probably not at Harbor Freight, though.
 
Yep - I've used Monel staples. Monel is a high nickle alloy. You can buy them at Home Depot (and probably most other big box hardware stores).
 
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