New boat missing Anchor/Windless. Help me buy a replacement?
- Thread starter wa500
- Start date
thataway":1lkqs71w said:
I will order a spool of 8 gauge marine wire. I assume it goes directly to the house battery?
BTW: how does the house battery charge? I have a "start" plus "house" switch. Is there a diode in there to allow the alternator to one-way charge the house?
>> You are going to need high test shackles for the anchor/ chain.
Can you recommend a specific link to a suitable product on defender? I'll order it.
Here's the one I recently ordered for my rode after losing my anchor to Mark Twain Lake.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3290405
Mantus Anchors also has a 20% discount running for the next couple days (Mantusmarine.com). Their M1 is similar to the Manson Supreme and Rocna anchors, if you want to further complicate the decision process.
Les
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3290405
Mantus Anchors also has a 20% discount running for the next couple days (Mantusmarine.com). Their M1 is similar to the Manson Supreme and Rocna anchors, if you want to further complicate the decision process.
Les
colbysmith
Active member
Hey Les, that lake does have a few trees in it. :wink: Colby
Do I want this + a fast hardener? It mentions it is "yellow", is that ok?
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=12198#
Or do I not need Resin at all and just lining it with standard home-depot 2 part epoxy sufficient?
It seems I won't be using much product. One quart plus hardener is nearly $80. Is there a better option?
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=12198#
Or do I not need Resin at all and just lining it with standard home-depot 2 part epoxy sufficient?
It seems I won't be using much product. One quart plus hardener is nearly $80. Is there a better option?
With all due respect, you are starting a project, yet I am not sure you know exactly what is involved. I you have not already done so, I suggest that you study the manual for installation of the Lewmar 700:
manual for Lewmar 700 Windlass.
There are going to be lots of items you will need--including epoxy (Which needs two parts to catalyze). The epoxy is to seal the core around the holes you drill in the deck, one of which is large. (3" diameter) The core will have to be cut back and the area filled with thickened epoxy. West Systems has already thickened epoxy : 6/10 epoxy.
You are going to need a good crimper for the #8 wire, and probably second crimper for 10/12, 14/16 and 18/22 AWG wire. You will need terminals. Wire needs to be color coded: positive is red and negative is black or yellow.. You will need adhesive shrink wrap. All positive terminals or bare terminals have to be covered.
Do you have the correct size hole saw and a powerful enough drill?
You need to place the first 50 amp breaker within 7" of battery or primary busbar. I have always put in second 50 amp breaker near the helm, so that is where you can turn the power on from the helm. (I put it on the front forward bulkhead under the galley, just under the top, well outboard, so the helmsman can easily reach it from the helm seat.
You may need terminal posts when the smaller wire from the windlass connects to the #8 wire you are running from the batteries.
When buying wire and terminal fittings get marine grade (which means that they are copper tin plated, that there is an adhesive shrink wrap sleeve over the wire.
There may be a contractor or there may just be a switch.
I use fender washers to back the windlass, or a custom made plate of aluminum ( if you have a source for 1/4" aluminum plate, you can drill out the holes).
You probably will want to grind off the nonskid where you mount the windlass. You will need a good grinder (I use a 4" angle grinder with a sanding backing plate) and then a sealant (4000) when installed.
The charging of batteries is a whole other topic. The boat should have a 1/2/all / off switch. For years boaters combined (All) the batteries when running after starting and then went to ! or 2 for house use after the engine stops. In recent years most use voltage sensitive relays, to combine the batteries.
manual for Lewmar 700 Windlass.
There are going to be lots of items you will need--including epoxy (Which needs two parts to catalyze). The epoxy is to seal the core around the holes you drill in the deck, one of which is large. (3" diameter) The core will have to be cut back and the area filled with thickened epoxy. West Systems has already thickened epoxy : 6/10 epoxy.
You are going to need a good crimper for the #8 wire, and probably second crimper for 10/12, 14/16 and 18/22 AWG wire. You will need terminals. Wire needs to be color coded: positive is red and negative is black or yellow.. You will need adhesive shrink wrap. All positive terminals or bare terminals have to be covered.
Do you have the correct size hole saw and a powerful enough drill?
You need to place the first 50 amp breaker within 7" of battery or primary busbar. I have always put in second 50 amp breaker near the helm, so that is where you can turn the power on from the helm. (I put it on the front forward bulkhead under the galley, just under the top, well outboard, so the helmsman can easily reach it from the helm seat.
You may need terminal posts when the smaller wire from the windlass connects to the #8 wire you are running from the batteries.
When buying wire and terminal fittings get marine grade (which means that they are copper tin plated, that there is an adhesive shrink wrap sleeve over the wire.
There may be a contractor or there may just be a switch.
I use fender washers to back the windlass, or a custom made plate of aluminum ( if you have a source for 1/4" aluminum plate, you can drill out the holes).
You probably will want to grind off the nonskid where you mount the windlass. You will need a good grinder (I use a 4" angle grinder with a sanding backing plate) and then a sealant (4000) when installed.
The charging of batteries is a whole other topic. The boat should have a 1/2/all / off switch. For years boaters combined (All) the batteries when running after starting and then went to ! or 2 for house use after the engine stops. In recent years most use voltage sensitive relays, to combine the batteries.
Thanks Thataway. Part of this is to get the parts ordered so they arrive by next Friday. I'm sure I have lots of other reading to do. The other challenge is there's not boat-specific write-up I can find on here. 
There are going to be lots of items you will need--including epoxy (Which needs two parts to catalyze).
The directions state "epoxy" but I see some people (including one of your previous posts) mention "epoxy resin". To me, expoxy is to the two part household stuff you use to stick things that I use for airplane models, but I'm not sure what Resin is.
If this is all I need, I think that's golden, I'll order it:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1152086
You are going to need a good crimper for the #8 wire,
Can I just drop Solder and heat shrink tubing and hit it with a heat gun
like I do for automotive stuff instead?
and probably second crimper for 10/12, 14/16 and 18/22 AWG wire. You will need terminals. Wire needs to be color coded: positive is red and negative is black or yellow..
I ordered 25' of each, I hope that's enough!
You will need adhesive shrink wrap. All positive terminals or bare terminals have to be covered.
Is "covered" satisfied if it's behind the factory removable cover where all the electrical wiring is? It does not appear Defender sells this product, although they do have adhesive shrink wrap not advertised for electrical applications.
Finally, it appears to include washers and the likes, but do I need to fashion anything more for a backing plate? Or can it just go on with a big flat washer?
There are going to be lots of items you will need--including epoxy (Which needs two parts to catalyze).
The directions state "epoxy" but I see some people (including one of your previous posts) mention "epoxy resin". To me, expoxy is to the two part household stuff you use to stick things that I use for airplane models, but I'm not sure what Resin is.
If this is all I need, I think that's golden, I'll order it:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1152086
You are going to need a good crimper for the #8 wire,
Can I just drop Solder and heat shrink tubing and hit it with a heat gun
like I do for automotive stuff instead?
and probably second crimper for 10/12, 14/16 and 18/22 AWG wire. You will need terminals. Wire needs to be color coded: positive is red and negative is black or yellow..
I ordered 25' of each, I hope that's enough!
You will need adhesive shrink wrap. All positive terminals or bare terminals have to be covered.
Is "covered" satisfied if it's behind the factory removable cover where all the electrical wiring is? It does not appear Defender sells this product, although they do have adhesive shrink wrap not advertised for electrical applications.
Finally, it appears to include washers and the likes, but do I need to fashion anything more for a backing plate? Or can it just go on with a big flat washer?
Re: Backing plate... as with anything else, opinions will vary... I believe some people here used nothing more than large "fender" washers, but you'll see that there's a recommendation/assumption in the Lewmar manual that the deck which you attach the windlass to be at least 1" thick and the C-Dory deck (at least mine, anyway) is just over 1/2" thick in that area. I backed mine with a 12" diameter disk of 3/4" plywood and used fender washers on that.
starcrafttom
Active member
wa500. you are in seattle area right? I am in marysville. you could come take a look at mine to get an idea of how its done and hit me up with questions. PM me.
smckean (Tosca)
New member
wa500,
Do it! starcrafttom knows his shit......you'd be nuts not to go see him. Frankly, I think the job you are contemplating is bigger than you are giving it credit for.
Do it! starcrafttom knows his shit......you'd be nuts not to go see him. Frankly, I think the job you are contemplating is bigger than you are giving it credit for.
smckean (Tosca)":2eeazb2j said:
It'll probably be more annoying than I suspect; but honestly; the most concerning part I have is drilling the hole and the epoxy. I'm good with all the electrical and wiring stuff.
It still looks very DIY-able. The direction are pretty bad from Lewmar though.
Next time don't buy a boat with a missing anchor?
I suppose I could just replace the anchor/rode and walk away from it without a windlass... but I fear that will be annoying solo.smckean (Tosca)
New member
It is. It's just that if a newbie mistake occurs in this area during the install, or during post install use, the consequences could be massive.
Another option, if you are in a hurry, would be to cruise several days without a windlass (but with the new anchor) and get a feel for things. Then tackle the windlass install with that anchoring experience under your belt. (You might find you don't even care about having a windlass.....many small boats don't.)
Desert Dory
New member
wa500":3v8gxvsh said:
It's recommended you wire to the start battery, not your house battery. I "think" the reasoning is you'll have the engine running when you're using the windless so you'll have alternator juice going to the battery anyway.
I recently added a Lewmar 700 Pro Fish to our C-Dory also. It's a fun project and not hard at all. Take your time and all will go well.
One thing I would do different (Thanks Bob for setting me straight after the fact) is not drill the GIANT 3" hole thru the deck but, instead, match the hole on the gasket that comes with the windlass.
Pics of my install are in my album here:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council), and NMMA (National Marine Manufactures Council) standards call for crimped fittings. The rational is that solder gives hard fittings which will crack under strain and with vibrations. I believe that the same rational is used in aerospace applications--although as we all know that on circuit boards solder is used (but in that case fully supported.
I have done some crimping and soldering for the very large lugs. Now I have a set of dyes which fit cables up to 4/0, so no longer do the dent and solder "crimp". I also older PL 259's for antennas. The only time I have soldered on the C Dorys has been for very fine wires. I also go overboard on the heat shrink adhesive. Even the salt air can and will corrode the wiring. I re-wired our Cal 46 as part of the rebuild at age 20 years. It was amazing how much corrosion there was in the wiring. (But the boat had seen charter service in the Caribbean before we bought it.).
Many of our C Dorys are over 20 years (some getting close to 40 years), and often it is time for improvement in the wiring. I find that many boats, as we add lighting and electronics) that the factory wiring was not adequate. Add up the max amp draw of each appliance and put in wiring for no more than 3% voltage drop in wiring to the console.
Yes the windlass should be connected to the starting battery, and the engine should be running when you hoist the anchor. The windlass is just for hoisting the anchor. It is not designed to pull the boat to the point over the windlass (you drive the boat to that point) taking up slack with the windlass. The over the anchor, tighten up the line and use the boat to break out the anchor. Then the windlass pulls the rode, chain and anchor to the surface, and up over the roller.
If you have zero boating experience I recommend that you buy a copy of Chapmans Piloting and Seamanship. It does not have to be the latest 68th edition. Also take either a Coast Guard Auxillary or Power Squadron course in person. Often you can get some in person experience on boats with people you meet in the class.
You may or may not want to study a book on 12 volts on boats. Although the theory is somewhat similar to cars (but no metallic body for ground), there are a number of things which are unique for boats.
There is a web site: On Marine how to do it--mostly electrical. I don't agree on the use of the butyl tape for mounting fittings, but most of the other information is valid. Many of us really old guys are opinionated for some reason...
Desert Dory thanks for jogging my memory, I did put in two round holes at each end of the gasket and connected them with a saber saw--which was narrower than the 3" hole and fit the template. I don't remember the size of the hole saws I used, but I believe it was in the 1 1/2" range-just big enough for the chain and rode to go thr without any abrasion on the edges...
"If you have zero boating experience I recommend that you buy a copy of Chapmans Piloting and Seamanship. It does not have to be the latest 68th edition. Also take either a Coast Guard Auxillary or Power Squadron course in person. Often you can get some in person experience on boats with people you meet in the class."
I signed up for the USCG Aux ABS (Or ABC?) course for May. It's their 6 hour boating course, which I need for the WA state boater ed card too apparently. It's all on Zoom these days though.
Thanks for the heads up, I just bought an older version of the book off ebay. At 967 pages, it's longer than the airplane flying handbook
I signed up for the USCG Aux ABS (Or ABC?) course for May. It's their 6 hour boating course, which I need for the WA state boater ed card too apparently. It's all on Zoom these days though.
Thanks for the heads up, I just bought an older version of the book off ebay. At 967 pages, it's longer than the airplane flying handbook