New boat missing Anchor/Windless. Help me buy a replacement?

W

wa500

New member
I bought this boat which is missing an anchor. What specifically do I need to order to fix it? I see mentions of "buy a windless". Some other people say different people need different types of anchors depending on usage?

Boating is mostly in the Pacific Northwest. I will be boating solo. I will be fishing, crapping, shrimping, and cruising.

Or really, I don't know. I've never owned a boat before, so please help me figure this out.

I see comments of buy a "lewmar pro 700 Horizontal Windlass" But is this what I want? They also come in several different mounting whole configurations on Amazon.

I gather I also need other pieces like rope and a hook.

I'm mechanical, but know nothing about boats.

Thanks again!


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I have Manson Supreme anchor and a Lewmar windlass on my 22'. Both have worked well for me. I have 30 feet of chain, but I would consider adding 10 to 20 feet more chain to that.
 
I have the 14 lb Delta that has worked good for me. Both on a past 22 and my current 25. The 25 came with a 22 lb Lewmar Claw, but I really wasn't that impressed with it, so put the Delta back on. I have 20 foot of chain with 300' of 8 plait rode. That was almost too much to fit in the 22's anchor locker, so I think you'd be fine with 200' of rode. If you are doing a lot solo, or even if you have a deck hand, the windlass will make life a whole lot easier. But if you feel inclined to manually launch and stow the anchor, you can just use that hawser to run the anchor rode and chain through. Otherwise, the Lewmar 700 is a good windlass. You'll have to drill some new holes in your bow to mount it, but if you are mechanical, it's pretty easy to mount one. BTW, I have so much rode do to my trip two years ago to the Inside Passage in SE Alaska on my 22. The Delta worked good, and with the tides, and some deeper anchorages, there were times I used almost 300 ft of rode. But if you are not going to be anchoring in deep places, you only need the rode necessary for your use. Colby
 
colbysmith":2p0zhba4 said:
I have the 14 lb Delta that has worked good for me. Both on a past 22 and my current 25. The 25 came with a 22 lb Lewmar Claw, but I really wasn't that impressed with it, so put the Delta back on. I have 20 foot of chain with 300' of 8 plait rode. That was almost too much to fit in the 22's anchor locker, so I think you'd be fine with 200' of rode. If you are doing a lot solo, or even if you have a deck hand, the windlass will make life a whole lot easier. But if you feel inclined to manually launch and stow the anchor, you can just use that hawser to run the anchor rode and chain through. Otherwise, the Lewmar 700 is a good windlass. You'll have to drill some new holes in your bow to mount it, but if you are mechanical, it's pretty easy to mount one. BTW, I have so much rode do to my trip two years ago to the Inside Passage in SE Alaska on my 22. The Delta worked good, and with the tides, and some deeper anchorages, there were times I used almost 300 ft of rode. But if you are not going to be anchoring in deep places, you only need the rode necessary for your use. Colby
Click to expand...

This Delta?
https://www.amazon.com/Lewmar-57410-Gal ... B012BFF14G

Chain/rope like this?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Seachoice-C ... /312526489

I'm sure there's a better place to buy it -- but is there specific spec of chain and rope? Perhaps can you point me to one for sale somewhere?

Is this the windless I want?
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1599779#

Do I need to deal with epoxy/resin when I install it? Or is it nothing more than drills? Is their a step-by-step write up for this anywhere?

Thanks!
 
Thank you. Is this the anchor you use? What weight?
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I think my anchor would be the 15 lb. Also the windlass is very similar to the one on my boat. You can buy chain and rode combos already spliced together. You will have to match the chain size and rode size to the windlass. The chain should be heavy galvanized.
 
Yes to your link on the Delta. Sort of yes to your link on the Windlass. I actually bought the ProFish model for my 25. My 22 had the regular model. The only difference is the ProFish model can be set to freefall for launching it. I tried that mode, and didn't care for it, so the one you have in the link would be my choice. I initially had that kind of anchor rode setup in the link you provided. But eventually switched over to the 8-plait, which I really liked better. It was easier to handle and you could get more of it in the anchor locker. I also went to 20' of chain rather than 15'. I think more chain helps weight the anchor down a little better for getting a grip on the seafloor. Colby
 
My only tip is this. When you add the windless make sure its as far back from the bow as possible and the chain will still fall in to the chain locker. If it's to far forward in the chain locker and the chain falls onto the sloped part of the box/bow the chain will stack up and block more chain from falling. You will have to stop and pull the chain away from the front of the box and then continue....ask me how I know....
 
Yes, the windlass you linked to would be good. The Manson Supreme in 15# would also be what I would recommend. (You will want an Fortress FX 7 or Guardian 7 for your stern anchor.)

Do not buy your anchor rode from Home Depot. From Defender, buy 300' or 8 plait rope, spliced to 50' of G4 chain for the PNW. Buy another 200' and 10' of chain and 3 strand 3/8" rope for the stern anchor. This can also be used if you tie your stern to the shore. Rocks (chain around rocks) or trees (use a tubular nylon material strap so you don't harm the tree's bark.)

The windlass is placed in the center. I usually put it about 1" forward of the horn of the foredeck or bow cleat.

You will abandon the use of the current deck pipe, unless you want to fashion a hammock to hold something like the stern line--separate from the bow.

This set up will serve you well for many years. Investment in quality is important.

You may want a wireless or wired remote for the Windlass. I mark the chain and rope with small electrical ties of different color--for example yellow at the 100' and orange at the 50'. When only 20 feet from the end--use 3 reds. You want to tie the end of the rode under the deck. Some boats have an 'eye nut" on the bow eye inside of the anchor locker. I have also used a dowel or even an 1" x 1" piece of wood about 12" long, with a clove hitch. You never want to see that last foot of the anchor rode disappearing over the bow roller! Yet there may be some time you have to attach a fender to the bitter end of the line, and bouy it so you can retrieve the anchor later.
 
This is for a C-dory 22

Will the boat hold 300 foot or rope + 50' of chain?

I'm getting lots of different opinions on what to buy. I am thinking of:

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?n ... hain-(pcr7)&path=-1|2276108|2276124|2226887|2226892&id=1337395

Here's more chain/rope but not quite 50':

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?na ... hain-(pcr5)&path=-1|2276108|2276124|2226887|2226892&id=1018575


I don't want to make the wrong decision, but I'm certainly also seeing multiple opinions.


thataway":357yx2uu said:
Yes, the windlass you linked to would be good. The Manson Supreme in 15# would also be what I would recommend. (You will want an Fortress FX 7 or Guardian 7 for your stern anchor.)

Do not buy your anchor rode from Home Depot. From Defender, buy 300' or 8 plait rope, spliced to 50' of G4 chain for the PNW. Buy another 200' and 10' of chain and 3 strand 3/8" rope for the stern anchor. This can also be used if you tie your stern to the shore. Rocks (chain around rocks) or trees (use a tubular nylon material strap so you don't harm the tree's bark.)

The windlass is placed in the center. I usually put it about 1" forward of the horn of the foredeck or bow cleat.

You will abandon the use of the current deck pipe, unless you want to fashion a hammock to hold something like the stern line--separate from the bow.

This set up will serve you well for many years. Investment in quality is important.

You may want a wireless or wired remote for the Windlass. I mark the chain and rope with small electrical ties of different color--for example yellow at the 100' and orange at the 50'. When only 20 feet from the end--use 3 reds. You want to tie the end of the rode under the deck. Some boats have an 'eye nut" on the bow eye inside of the anchor locker. I have also used a dowel or even an 1" x 1" piece of wood about 12" long, with a clove hitch. You never want to see that last foot of the anchor rode disappearing over the bow roller! Yet there may be some time you have to attach a fender to the bitter end of the line, and bouy it so you can retrieve the anchor later.
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You mentioned that you will be fishing. In my experience with anchoring for halibut fishing in deep water is that you will want to get your anchor to the bottom before the tide drifts you off the shelf. My recommendation for a windlass would be the LEWMAN PRO FISH 700. It has the capability of free falling the anchor to the bottom quickly and you can do it all alone from the steering station without going on deck. Other anchors are power up and power down which is a big disadvantage for fishing. I would couple that with 8 plait rode as the 8 plait is a softer rode that will stack nicely in a small locker. I'd add 30'-50' for 1/4" ht chain (I believe that is what Lewmar recommends. I have preferred a delta plow anchor in the past but have been considering a Manson anchor for my next boat. You will want more than a picnic anchor so go on the heavy side of mfr recomendations. good luck. tight lines.
 
Schuster":2f4sfzuu said:
You mentioned that you will be fishing. In my experience with anchoring for halibut fishing in deep water is that you will want to get your anchor to the bottom before the tide drifts you off the shelf. My recommendation for a windlass would be the LEWMAN PRO FISH 700. It has the capability of free falling the anchor to the bottom quickly and you can do it all alone from the steering station without going on deck. Other anchors are power up and power down which is a big disadvantage for fishing. I would couple that with 8 plait rode as the 8 plait is a softer rode that will stack nicely in a small locker. I'd add 30'-50' for 1/4" ht chain (I believe that is what Lewmar recommends. I have preferred a delta plow anchor in the past but have been considering a Manson anchor for my next boat. You will want more than a picnic anchor so go on the heavy side of mfr recomendations. good luck. tight lines.
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Thanks! I've never fished (or boated -- my first boat BTW!) but it looks like fun so I wanted to get started in the hobby. I'm not sure what type of fishing I will be doing. The boat also has grab/shrimp pot pullers that came with it.
 
First, I would have at least 30' of chain as the beginning of your rode. A boat length is the recommended length and is standard, more doesn't hurt. And I'd make sure the rope/chain was made in USA, Home Depot is usually China. Defender Marine Supply is a good place to start and look.

Second, Journey On has a windlass and we love it. Bring up (and let down) the anchor at the push of a button. Eary 25s came with a vertical anchor, wherein the gearbox and and motor ended up filled with sand, due to a faulty seal. The may have fixed it (I hope) but a horizontal windlass avoids the problem.

Now, Lewmar has the small windlasses suitable for a C-Dory, a pull of 700 lbs. They're also cheap. A Lewmar Pro-Series 700H Horizontal Windlass is only $780, with power up and down. I've had good luck with Lewmar and Maxwell. Remember the power up and down, one does not have to go to the foredeck to loosen the clutch. And a rope/chain drum. I noticed that there's a cheaper version, a Lewmar Pro-Sport 550G Horizontal Windlass @ $530.

And last, I use 3 types of anchors on Journey On, depending where I am. Danforth for rocks and grass, a Manson Supreme for sand and a Bruce for PNW mud. All good anchors.

Boris
 
this link is closest to what you want. It is probably fine.

You can call Defender and request the custom made up length, or do what I did, and order the 300' of 8 plait rope and 50' of G4 chain, then splice it your self.

Yes you will get a number of different opinions. For the most part they are valid and almost identical. Those with the most credibility are folks who have boated in the PNW or live there. For example we have made 5 inland passage trips to AK, and spent several other summers boating the PNW--but there are many with far more experience in this area.

We have used a CQR, A Delta, a Danforth and the Manson Supreme (also the discontinued "Boss" anchor. I personally have not had good luck with the Bruce or claw type, but others had. You cannot go wrong with the Manson Supreme or similar anchors.

Generally the water is deep, and there can be rocks as well as kelp and sand. With a C Dory you can tuck back in a corner.

Yes, there is room for 300' 8 plait and 50' of g4 chain in a C Dory 22. That is what we used on our last 22. We also made a canvas piece which went from the fiberglass ofd the bottom lip of the anchor locker to the top-dowel rod thru a hem in the tops nd held in place with some net twine at the very top.
 
Alright, I am going to order these items. Since Defender does not sell the Manson Anchor, I have to get that off Amazon.

Can you please check check these over? Am I making any mistakes if I submit this order?

Do I need any other accessories for the install kit? Does it include switches and everything I need other than maybe electrical wire and connectors? I assume I'll have to run all the way to the back battery?

I remain concerned about the epoxy/resin part of the install. I can do everything else just fine.

Anyone think I'm doing the wrong thing before I submit the order?


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Seems reasonable to me. I got the same windlass and installed it fairly recently. I actually got the "pro fish" version of the windlass, but that's just a variation that allows the anchor to free fall.

Everyone is going to have different opinions on the makeup of the rode and of course it also depends on where you're going to be fishing as well. In my opinion, you're a little light on chain, but that's just my opinion. I got 60' of chain and 200' of rope... so you actually have a little more length overall. I've seen recommendations from reputable sources that the amount of chain should be 2x to 3x times the length of your boat - but I also know some people who don't use chain at all.

As far as setting the point for anchoring in relation to a target fishing spot, it can be useful to go to your target and set a waypoint then let the boat drift off the waypoint to get a feel for what direction and distance you need to go to drop anchor and drift to the target fishing spot.

Oh, and YES you very much should seal the holes you drill with epoxy to protect the balsa core. There are articles posted in here on how to do that and why, etc.

Good luck. Several of us have done what you're going to do so while our opinions may vary slightly, there's plenty of help available.
 
Do not buy your anchor rode from Home Depot
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Why not? HD now carries a line of marine rope and lines. All the premade lines with loops for dock lines AND they are coming from the same manufacturer as west marine , defender etc etc. Just half the money.
 
Good choices and good price points. Inquire on the windlass if it comes with a breaker box. They sell a package deal where you get the whole works and dont have to go buy any electrical stuff. good luck. and if you need someone familiar with Puget Sound to learn to shrimp and crab and fish, drop me a note and I'll be glad to share a few good spots with you.
 
Good point on the breaker--but you will also need the wire for the windlass.
You are going to need high test shackles for the anchor/ chain.

My impression is that the dock and anchor lines at places like Walmart and Home depot are made in China. Defender uses ARCO made in USA G 4 chain. My Brait line was by Yale Cordage. I don't believe that you will find Brait 8 plait anchor rode at Home Depot.
 
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