Need a little Wallas input

K

katkt

New member
The stove was signed out of the factory in 02. It's the model 125DU.

Lack of use is probably going to be a big factor here.

The stove worked properly when we first got the boat(fall 03).
I believe it worked well in 06 or 07? Also, I switched to Klean Heat at that time. The diesel fuel was getting old, and the consensus at the time was Klean Heat was a good stuff.
Last winter when I tried to use the stove, It'd start up, the red light would come on for about five minutes or so and then it'd shut down and the light would go to blinking. Smoke out of the exhaust, Fuel smell in the cabin.

Fast forward to the here and now.

I perused the forum, and took the glow plug out and shined it up per one of the threads and some info in the Library.
I added some alcohol to the fuel because I could hear it popping instead of burning steady. Didn't seem to make much difference.
I changed the fuel out for an unopened and sealed container I had(purchased in 06 or 07), and it seems to be burning better, but still pops...... some.....ever so often.

The boat is on the trailer, with the shore power plugged in, and I'm able to maintain about 12.8 volts on the gauges I have when the stove is turmed on.
When I turn the stove on, with the lid up so I can hear, I hear the motor(pump?) running.........there is also a rhythmic 4/4 soft thump in the back ground.
This continues for about three minutes, the stove strats to get hot, and the red light comes on and stays lit......seems to me, the rhythymic beat in the back ground picks up to about a 3/4 when the red light is on.

I can still hear what sounds like the the fire going out and relighting, although its not as bad as before when I first started. The red light still goes to blinking after about 5 minutes, which I gather is the high heat kicking the pump off.
When the fire is burning well, it sounds abit like an itty bitty gas water heater. Has a steady flame sound....or seems to, maybe I'm nuts? Or deaf? Or both?

Questions,

1.Is the sound I hear, the fire going out and relighting?
2.Is the fact that the stove isn't burning steady ....the popping sound.....the reason the the high heat kicks the stove off and makes the red light blink? Is there some sort of thermal couple, that cuts the power to the glow plug when the fire is going properly, and the heat reaches a certain temp?
3.The instructions say not to cycle the stove to many times, but to figure out what the problem is. Is it okay, to cycle the stove a half dozen or more times to get good fuel to the burner? I would guess that would be when the popping sound stops?
4.Do I need to hook the muffs to one of the motors, and start it, to supply more voltage?
5. Should I go back to the #2 diesel?
6. Should I go to the store and get some brandy new Klean Heat, even though the other container still had the factory seal?

..........any and all suggestions are welcomed and encouraged. Thanks for the help.

Gordon
 
That's what I'm think'n......hope'n

While I was looking thru the manual, I also noticed that there was a big circle drawn around "Don't coil the extra hose" by the folks at "Scan Marine".....ie, cut the hose to length, when the installation is complete.
The folks at CD were good enough to mount a nice clip and coil about 2 feet extra on the inside of the cabinet. I suppose they did that in case the owner mmight want to relocate the fuel line.
I figure I'll get rid of the excess, and it may help get the fresh fuel to the stove faster.
No more then I've used the stove, it may still have diesel in the hose from several years ago. :? When I fired it up after switching to the Klean Heat(06 or 07), I only ran it long enough to make sure it was still working properly.

I'm hope'n some of the Wallas guru's on here will chime in, I'm curious about how the stove works. What causes the High heat to trip the pump etc..

I have a pretty good idea that the stuff I poured out would have burned if I put a match to it. The new stuff I used(even if it's a couple of years old) was still in the original sealed container. I have no doubts it would of burned.

Thanks for your input jkidd. :thup
 
The thump, thump, thump is the Pump, pump, pump. If the red lite is blinking it is in Shut Down Mode. Pull the fuse to the Wallas, wait 20 seconds & reinstal fuse this will reset the no lite warning (for lack of proper terminology) Turn stove on High, turn Rocker switch to on if the stove lights let it run. Through a pan of water on or close the blower lid so it does not over heat run it for 30 min to an hour on HI to burn off all the soot etc. then shut off the Rocker Switch & let it cool down. I would get rid of the extra fuel hose too.
 
tsturm":3kdf16jr said:
The thump, thump, thump is the Pump, pump, pump. If the red lite is blinking it is in Shut Down Mode. Pull the fuse to the Wallas, wait 20 seconds & reinstal fuse this will reset the no lite warning (for lack of proper terminology) Turn stove on High, turn Rocker switch to on if the stove lights let it run. Through a pan of water on or close the blower lid so it does not over heat run it for 30 min to an hour on HI to burn off all the soot etc. then shut off the Rocker Switch & let it cool down. I would get rid of the extra fuel hose too.
Click to expand...



Ah Ha!!


I had left the lid up, so that I could hear all the gurgles and thumps etc.. I wondered if maybe I should have had a pan of water on the stove......I can rectify that part. Although, I didn't think the stove itself had gotten warm enough in the five minutes the red light was lit continuously. I could still place my hand on the burner surface, without serious discomfort.

With the lid down and the blower running, I can hardly hear the sputtering of the flame etc..
I've been allowing the stove to run its entire cool down cycle(12 or so minutes), and also pulling the power lead from the board for about 30 seconds, at the end of the cool down cycle when the light stops flashing.

I'll be sure and keep a pan of water over one of the burners during my testing.

Thanks tsturm
 
We're up and running.

I came home this afternoon, and shortened the fuel supply line. I removed about 6 and a half feet of extra.
The fuel is what was in there yesterday, so no changes there, and I placed pans with water on both burners.
The time from when the switch was turned on, until the red light came on seemed faster. I listened to the burner, until the shield underneath got to warm for my ear. The sound was steady and no popping or reignition issues today.
The stove ran perfectly, and I shut it down after about 30 or 40 minutes.

So,

I don't know if it was the newer fuel, the shorter line, the pans on the stove, or a combination of the three, but it works fine now. Thanks for the help.

Gordon
 
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