My hotwater heater

localboy":2j9cg1i8 said:
journey on":2j9cg1i8 said:
By the way, why do we say "hot water heater"? Doesn't a water heater end up with hot water? We're not heating hot water even hotter?

Boris

:lol: I continually argue about this same issue, with the Mrs. She calls it "tuna fish". What? Is not a tuna a FISH? We don't say beef cow. It's redundant.

Beef cow, dairy cow, etc.
 
Jake":3vyd6t0o said:
localboy":3vyd6t0o said:
journey on":3vyd6t0o said:
By the way, why do we say "hot water heater"? Doesn't a water heater end up with hot water? We're not heating hot water even hotter?

Boris

:lol: I continually argue about this same issue, with the Mrs. She calls it "tuna fish". What? Is not a tuna a FISH? We don't say beef cow. It's redundant.

Beef cow, dairy cow, etc.

:disgust :roll: :wink:
Everyone know someone to take the steaks out of the freezer to UN Thaw? Yeah, me too :disgust

Sun shower :thup even works on semi cloudy days.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon :embarrased
 
The common sun shower has a push/pull spray head on the end of the tube. You have to use both hands to use it. It's clumsy and you waste some of the water while fumbling with the spray head. When shampooing, it's like playing pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey. Plus, because it is gravity operated, I have to lay it on the cabin top and then get on my knees for a shower.

One solution is to buy additional hose, a connector, and a bulb pump like this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/6-Tube-Sipho ... 3=&veh=sem

With the right amount of tubing, the bag is on the cabin top, the bulb pump lays on the cockpit sole (when showering al fresco), the shower head is hung up high (usually a problem with the gravity feed system), and you step on the bulb when you want 4 oz. of water to squirt out of the shower head.

Do not make the mistake of telling the first mate how many squirts she gets. The system is miserly enough.

Mark
 
Remember the older Honda only puts out a max of close to 17 amps, given most battery chargers are at least 15 amps, mine is 20, there is only so much a little generator can do since it usually is putting out much less.

https://ventry.com/blogs/faqs/switch-ho ... try-lights

I mean no dis-respect, but this reads to me that you need a generator that matches or is greater than the current rating of the charger. This simply isn't true.
Providing one is discussing the 120VAC output of the generator (as some gens have a 12V limited output as well), a 17A rated generator can easily power a 20 amp or more 12V battery charger.
A 20A, 12V charger (~250 watts) will theoretically draw a little more than 2 amps of 120 VAC power.
My Mastervolt 3-leg 25A charger draws (according to spec) about 450 watts or about 4 amps from the 120VAC source. I can run it all day long with my Honda 1000 generator. Even with other loads on the 120VAC power (fridge, computer, etc.).
 
kaelc":1xsv0v7o said:
Remember the older Honda only puts out a max of close to 17 amps, given most battery chargers are at least 15 amps, mine is 20, there is only so much a little generator can do since it usually is putting out much less.

https://ventry.com/blogs/faqs/switch-ho ... try-lights

Apples and oranges--the Honda is 2000 watts 110 V AC (realistically about 16 amps on long run). The newer Honda 2200 has another amp out put on 110 V AC--but has other features, such as run the carburetor "Almost" dry--still should be drained for long term storage.

The Battery charger is XX amps 12 vlots DC. The input amp draw of the battery charger is only going to be a few amps. Agree with CC Rider.
 
....the Honda is 2000 watts 110 V AC.....
Bob, I'm not bothering to do this post to "correct" you, but rather to simply share something I learned about 5 years ago. It is quite simple, but it sort of "blew my mind" since I had been saying 110v for over 60 years.

These days almost everywhere in the USA, residential line voltage is 120v. True, decades ago it was 110v, but no longer. The interesting part of this is: why this is so. Back when I was born in the 1940s, voltage in your home was 110v. But as demand for electricity continued to grow, electric utilities needed to generate more watts to satisfy power demands. The most straight forward way to increase watts (power) is to increase the amperage flow; however, by then too much supply side wiring was at its max capacity; so the utilities solved the problem for a while by increasing the home delivered voltage to 115v.....voila, more watts. Later they did it again for the same reasons and raised the "standard" home voltage to today's 120V. Old guys like me and Bob still tend to say 110v because that's what we grew up with. Also, it is not hard to find stickers on appliances and such that still say 115v. I don't know if all of the USA is on the 120v standard or not. Maybe there are still pockets that operate at 110v or 115v, but I assume that would make interconnecting to other power grids problematical.

Is this important? No, but it is interesting I think. The one case where using 110 vs 120 is important is in calculations like this thread is discussing. For example, the Honda 2000 operates at 120v not 110v so the available amps from a Honda 2000 generator is somewhat less than a calculation at 110v would indicate.
 
Yep we answer questions with common expressions and in the World it is 110/120 vs 220/240 Alterating current.

My father was and EE and table talk was power grid and voltages. We had out current graphed at home. My grid currently is 137.4 volts (may not be true RMS.)


But in fact it does vary a fair amount.
 
Sandy, Thanks for clearing that up. I have often wondered what the deal was with the 110/120 bit. Now I know. Learn something new here every day.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

Friends_Cal_09_10_Oct.thumb.jpg
 
There was also the switch from 50 Hz which much of the World still uses, to 60 hz occurred in 1948. Not sure if was the entire county, but S. Cal. Edison where my dad worked for 45 years (From High school lineman, sub station relief operator when at Cal Tech, and retired as VP of Power Supply and Consumer Demand. He was impedimental in the design of the Western Grid. (it appears that just more wire has been added to the old routes theses days.

In Europe we usually had 50 hz 230 volts average on the boat. We had a 4 KW step down transformer, but it would work only on resistive loads--water and cabin heater. Fortunately we had a battery charger which was 50/60 Hz so it worked. We had to run the generator for the freezer/refer. holding plates.

On our cross country drives we see many isolated solar and wind turbine fields, with a central point substation, and new transmission lines coming to these remote areas...
 
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