More woes (eek) - screws pulling loose in cockpit

Wandering Sagebrush

Wandering Sagebrush

Free Range Human
Wow, it must be my day. I just noticed that the screws that anchor the starbright strips that hold the fuel cells in place are pulling out of the bottom of the cockpit. My suspicion is that the screws were not bedded in epoxy when the fuel cells were installed. Hopefully I won't have any delamination or balsa rot. A more detailed inspection is needed. Photos soon....

I've got a warranty call in to the factory.

Steve
 
Rather than call the factory, why not just get out the epoxy....and do it yourself ?? Screws will pull out of there on every boat sooner or later.... it is so common and easy to fix... When it did it on my boat.... I cleaned up the holes, and went with better and more screws bedded in some West Systems Epoxy.....

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Hi Joel,

I hear what you're saying, and I am certainly able to repair this myself. I guess it just comes down to something as basic as I am not willing to accept it as OK for screws that hold a fuel cell in place to pull out of the hull. A three year old boat should not have a problem like this. At this time the problem just seems to have started, but with time and repeated exposure to the wet, it it going to get nasty.

Regards,

Steve
 
Steve-

My ancient '87 cruiser had loose tank hold down screws on the starboard side when I bought it in '98.

I fixed them with epoxy (Marinetex), and they haven't loosened up yet.

Easy fix. And cheap!

Port side has always been tight, now 21 years since new and running.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Unfortunately, C Dory appears to still be putting screws into the thin laminate on the inner layer of the bottom of the boat. I wonder if this layer is thinner in some of the newer boats--there is no question that the era 2003 to 2005 had some definate problems.

The reason I repair these things myself or have someone whose quality of work I have confidence in, is that I know it will be done correctly. The correct repair is to drill out the holes, route out the balsa, under cutting the inner layer of laminate, dry the hole, and then fill with thickened epoxy.
 
Thataway:

I've used the same technique you recommend, with great success. However, I need a little advice on one part, which I've never been able to master with any degree of consistency: the epoxy.

My problem is that no matter how I mix, and what "traditional" products I use, the only consistent result is that after my epoxy is exposed to sustained contact with water, it ends up getting soft, and discolored. I've gone to using MarineTex (also an epoxy), and with that, the results are consistently favorable. Always sets, never softens, and is plastic enough to tolerate drilling and insertion of screws without fracturing, as opposed to having to cast the screws in place with "traditional" epoxy.

I guess I've solved my problem by using MarineTex, but am still wondering what it takes to get the desired result with other products.

Any suggestions?

Alma's Only
 
i have the 2003 22' and my starboard strip has bowed causing several of the screws to pull out. haven't fixed it yet but as a result of this post will probably work on it next weekend. the boat is high and dry so further damage is not a consideration. the screws that have pulled out are those to the center line side of the hull.
pat
 
I kinda cheated when I did my repair.... I made side panels ..... that gave the front panels a right angle to lock against... it really strengthened that area..... then I mounted my Rycors to the side panels so I can visually see the water traps....(I use 2 Rycors and have separate fuel lines for each engine).... The only thing I didn't do that I should have done is cut out a viewing window in the front panel like the new boats have....

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Ok there is a question that I need answered. What is the best way to cut the slots in the fiberglass panels so you can see the gas tanks. I have no experince cutting fiberglass and dont want to make a mess out of it but would like to do this up grade. I have drilled in to glass and it always cracks.
 
Alma's Only,

You could try System Three products. They have epoxy in dual caulking tubes that are easier to use than mixing two separate components.

Link http://www.systemthree.com/p_u_cartridge.asp

I have used System Three products for many years. Their website has good information on use, and safety. Always use gloves, never touch epoxy with your skin!! For very small jobs, wrap a plastic bag around a finger and use that to spread the epoxy.

Epoxy must be measured accurately and completely mixed. The mix ratio is fixed, unlike polyester resin where a catalyst is added. Epoxy that does not cure properly is usually mixed at the wrong ration or is contaminated.
 
Tom,

General advise, Cover the cut area with masking tape, use fine blades. use the blade so that the teeth pull from the finished side towards the backside. Cut slightly to one side of the line(on the scrap side of the line) and sand the edge smooth.

Another idea is to use trim on the cut edge.

Link follows. Taco Marine
 
hi tom,
when i was in the service we simply used a screw driver and hammer to fix everything. you may not want to take that approach, although, after a few beers, who knows.
i like the idea of masking off the area to be cut and drawing your cut lines on the masking tape. then i'd use a dremel rotary type tool you can find them at any tool supply store or check out tylertool.com.
i have one and have cut numerous wholes in fiberglas using a fiberglas cutting bit. works great and make sure you use a mask as well.
good luck
pat
 
That's easy....mine were starboard so all I used was a hole saw for the two corners and a fine tooth blade for the jig saw.... you could use a router too.... Fiberglass is not that hard either.... Just use masking tape...over the gel coat....and that will lessen any chipping... but with a fine tooth blade it will not chip (very slow speed) ..... then take off the tape once your done...and go to West Marine, they sell edging that will fit perfectly.... I think some folks use the edging on the bottom of metal fuel tanks to keep them from scratching stuff... but they have the edging.... if yer close to the factory they use the edging too... easy to use stuff.... I also mix up a tad of polyester resin and put it on any fresh cut edge.... fiberglass wix water....and will later cause cracking or crazing...the resin will seal the edge and prevent that...

Joel Yes, I graduated as a Plastics Engineer....but never worked a day at it )
SEA3PO
 
Larry H":34bzn8ay said:
Always use gloves, never touch epoxy with your skin!!
Click to expand...

While the context was for applying epoxy, the advice is also relevant when cutting / drilling / sanding fiberglass. The teenist "fibers" will embed themselves in your skin and cause an annoying itch.
 
Agree with Centerisland--I suggest gogles and respirator, or at least a mask, as well as a tyvex suit when cutting glass or doing a lot of glass work.

I won't repeat the post I made in the other thread about epoxy--but I do use West--you have to have the pumps (cheap) and mix well before adding the filler. I usually use 50% cabosil for thickening and medium density filler, (I mix high and low density 1/1). Never use Bondo or simlar filler for filling the holes--or for any use where it will be imersed in water. As I noted, Marine Tex makes a good product for filling the holes--and is much easier to use.

I am currently doing a project, replacing some of the plywood floor of my RV--this involves both plywood, various types of glass and different density fillers, depending where the repair is, and how it will be finished. There is no one answer for all types of repairs.
 
I got a voice message from SportCraft Marina this weekend while I was outside on the business end of a chainsaw and splitting maul. Don't let anyone tell you that cutting up big hemlock trees is good for you.

For the update. SportCraft/CDory will fix the bulging fuel cell and plulled screw problem on warranty. They are going to use the new fascia boards that go all the way to the top of the splash well. The boat should be done later this coming week. A big thanks to Ryan and Tim at SportCraft!!!!

Steve
 
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