mini jacker question

[anchorout]

As I scan through all the "kicker" comments and pics on the forum, it becomes obvious that the MINI JACKER is being used by many folks adding kickers to their boats. So, I ordered one to install my Suzuki 6hp. It is well made, looks good, and is well up to the job for which it is designed.
BUT, to mount a 6hp it is HEAVY, HEAVY.

Has anyone cut down this mount to save a few pounds? I am sure a device rated to hold a 35hp motor could loose some bulk and still handle 6hp.

Pics and suggestions appreciated.

 

[Sunbeam]

I cut down a piece that came with it, just because it was heavy and vulnerable to deterioration, and I could not see it doing anything on my installation. This was not the aluminum mount itself, but the big, laminated plywood piece that came with it to fill in the forward side. It was pre-scored into four sections (to fit over the ribs on the aluminum part), and my engine only contacts the top two, so I sawed off the bottom two.

Then, because it was "exposed edge city," I coated the remainder with epoxy before painting it. I mounted the Mini Jacker to the transom with four 3/8" Armor Coated Grade 8 cap screws, and then mounted the Honda to it with two of the same in 5/16" (plus the motor clamps.

I never thought about modifying the aluminum part. But then my Honda 8 is relatively substantial.

Sunbeam

 

[Sunbeam]

PS: When I took it out of the box I thought the same thing: Holy cow, this thing is heavy! Do I really need this?! (My Honda had been mounted directly on the transom.) I started to re-think the whole thing. I saved the box and the receipt....

But... it came back to why I had ordered it in the first place. I wanted to mount the Bennett 120 trim tabs on my boat, and I needed the motor further aft to clear them. So I had to do something. So I went ahead with my plan for the Mini Jacker.

As a side bonus: Before, the prop on my Honda rode really close to the ground when I was trailering. Too close really for getting in and out of gas stations, etc. Now I have good clearance. And the sturdiness does feel good (if a bit overkill).

 

[bobjarrard]

Here is a link to a site that sells plans for a jack plate that will go up to 40HP. Plans alone are $5 and there is not much in the way of material here, most of it could be scrounged!
Bob

 

[colbysmith]

Like Sunbeam, I cut half the mounting pad (wood block) away. I needed to use it to clear my trim tabs as well. In fact I also had to add another 3/4 inch of spacers between the transom and the MJ. I suppose a person could cut away some of the aluminum material to make it lighter, but in the scheme of things is it really that heavy.

 

[Boomer]

Had one on a previous 22 Cruiser, and really liked it. I guess I can't see how shaving a few pounds off of it would make any difference on a C Dory. I would just install it as it was built and call it good.

 

[localboy]

If I had to do it again I'd have one made out of alum. I'd design it deeper to move the engine back a tad farther, maybe 1-2". This would make it clear the starboard trim tab etc.

But for the cost at the time, the Mini Jacker works.

 

[Sunbeam]

If I had to do it again I'd have one made out of alum. I'd design it deeper to move the engine back a tad farther, maybe 1-2". This would make it clear the starboard trim tab

Sounds like there is some variation in the way the Mini Jacker works with the trim tabs. On my 22 with Bennett Sport 120's and a Honda 8, the Mini Jacker is enough to make the engine clear the tabs comfortably with no modification (but it would not clear when mounted directly to the transom). I think on Colby's 22 with Lenco tabs, the actuator arms terminate higher on the transom, so he wasn't able to get clearance (for the top of the actuator arm) without shimming out the Mini-Jacker. And it sounds like on your 25 with [not sure what type of] trim tabs, there is a clearance issue with the Mini-Jacker, perhaps with the trim planes (?).

 

[colbysmith]

That's partially true in relation to the actuator arm. I also wanted to get the right "trim" on engine positioning, so that also required some additional space in addition to what the Mini Jacker afforded. So far I am happy with how the set up has worked for me. I didn't like that little bit of extra weight in the beginning, but it is what it is. ;-) Colby

 

[thataway]

I am wondering why folks are using the "Mini Jacker" outboard bracket mount rather than one of the other fixed outboard motor brackets for trolling motors. The Mini jacker is specifically designed for raising an outboard up to 3", or allowing use of a long shaft 20" motor on a 15" transom. The unit seems to be designed for primary outboards up to 35 hp. There are others which have more setback, or have different amounts of raise, or no rise. If there is concern about the trim tabs, then more setback would seem to be in order.

I have used the adjustable brackets--although these have to be maintained to avoid corrosion issues, they have worked well for me. One feature is that you can assure that the lower unit is pulled completely free of the water when running. They also allow more setback than the "Mini Jacker"

 

[Sunbeam]

I am wondering why folks are using the "Mini Jacker" outboard bracket mount rather than one of the other fixed outboard motor brackets for trolling motors.

I slightly wondered about that myself, but went ahead with the Mini-Jacker for a few reasons:

1) I could see that it had worked well on other 22/Bennett tab setups.

2) My Honda 8D didn't seem to lend itself to being propped up when trailering, and when "down" (and mounted directly on the transom) it was riding too close the the road for comfort. So the 3" rise of the MJ took care of that nicely, and given that it is 8hp, I was advised that the rise in prop height when underway (using it) would probably work out okay. I guess I will find out when I trial it.

3) I needed to choose something so I could move ahead with the inter-related projects (trim tabs, etc.), and I really couldn't find another one I was "sure" about. One issue is that I'm not really familiar with them, having come from either sailing or small skiffs wherein you just mounted the outboard on the transom and went off fishing. So the options weren't clear to me and I may have been searching inferior terms/places.

I'd guess you are right in that there is something better, since what most of us are doing with them doesn't seem to be the typical use. For anyone's reference, here are a couple of the places I looked or contacted when I was shopping:

www.thmarine.com
www.bobsmachine.com

All that said, so far the Mini-Jacker has worked out great for the things I've been able to test. That is...

a) It fit well on the transom

b) it put the motor in a good position for trailering

c) it cleared the trim tabs without a problem and without any special shimming or accommodation

The only thing left to check is that it will be at an effective height for motoring (I know, that seems primary -- but it's the one thing I have not tested yet).

 

[colbysmith]

Gave me the rise, and almost the aft clearance I needed. It worked for what I wanted, and cost was a factor. Didn't really want any of the movable mounts, as I did not need to raise and lower the motor...that's what the tilt is for. ;-) Colby

 

[thataway]

My experience is on the smaller kickers the tilt is often not enough to get the lower unit completely clear of the water--and I don't want it dragging at speeds. I have never had an issue with using the up and down bracket--but it can be inconvenient, and with some brackets difficult to release the bracket when full up. However I do use lighter motors as a kicker.

Sunbeam Is the prop on the kicker below the trim tab--and in clear water? I assume that you used a 20" shaft-thus a motor not suitable for the dinghy. I use short shaft motors, and leave it down when trailering. I also tie the motor up when running, because I have not had all that good luck with the tilt stop.

 

[colbysmith]

FWIW, mine only drags (just slightly) when I'm "plowing". Up on plane and no wake speeds, it's only in the spray. Even in Lake Michigan Chop (2-3 ft waves, at 12-15 mph), I had no problem with my kickers tilt bracket. The one positive about the MJ, is they are solid units. I did consider some of the movable mounts before I purchased it, but in the end I just went with it. No complaints...yet.... ;-) Colby

 

[localboy]

Like I said, for the money, it works. My issue w/ it is two-fold. It does not move our kicker back far enough, which does two things: does not allow for tightening of the mounting bolts and when I first used the kicker it rubbed on the trim tab, but only under power when the torque pushed the engine forward. The vibration noise was horrendous. Easily remedied by adjusting the trim up one hole.

I purposely did not use a spring-type lowering bracket, as every one I've ever seen danced, bounced, vibrated, jostled about while on the trailer being towed. I tow w/ the kicker down & secured to lessen movement.

 

[Sunbeam]

Sunbeam Is the prop on the kicker below the trim tab--and in clear water? I assume that you used a 20" shaft-thus a motor not suitable for the dinghy. I use short shaft motors, and leave it down when trailering. I also tie the motor up when running, because I have not had all that good luck with the tilt stop.

Well, for starters, the engine was on the boat when I got it, so I didn't choose it specifically. On the other hand, I can't complain, because it's not a bad engine. I'll have to measure, but I would say it's almost for sure a long shaft, just looking at it. If I were buying something I might use on a dinghy, I would get a short; but this won't be that engine anyway, at 8 hp and 108#.

I just looked at a photo of the starboard quarter and with the trim tab retracted the anti-ventilation plate on the Honda looks to be quite a few inches below the trim tab plane. I'll be back at the boat in a few hours and now I'm curious and will measure.

I also trailer with the engine down (which I can now do without worrying, thanks to the Mini-Jacker). I'll have to see whether it seems like I should supplement the bracket for use tilted when underway. I think it may be reasonably sturdy/positive on its own (not that I would trailer like that though). Still, a good thing to check so I'm glad you mentioned it.

So I think overall the 3" lift plus setback of the Mini Jacker works well for my setup; but I still have to test it underway.

Here is a photo. I edited it and now it's pretty washed out, but I wanted to lighten up the trim tab area a bit so you could see it better. Note that I have the boat lifted at the bow with the tongue jack - so things are riding a bit low aft as compared to when I'm trailering.

 

[colbysmith]

It appears your kicker sits quite a bit lower than mine. Both my main and my kicker have their cavitation plates even with the bottom of the boat. Which means since the kicker is smaller, it's skeg is just a bit higher from the ground than the main, with both tilted down, which is how I trailer also.

 

[Sunbeam]

I just did a little measuring. The Honda is definitely a long shaft. There is currently just about 4", vertically, between the after edge of the trim plane (retracted) and the top of the anti-ventilation plate. Right now I have the engine in the pin/hole that pushes the leg furthest aft/out (for trailering). I can't remember which hole I was able to shift it to and still clear the trim plane, but it was one that put the engine in a more "normal" running position.

The anti-ventilation plate on the engine is just a little bit lower than the bottom of the hull dead ahead of it, as things sit now. Like 3/4" or less. (The kicker looks extra low because of the angle of the photo and because the Yamaha is tilted up; the prop is actually higher than that of the main when they are both down). But you can see why I appreciate the 3" rise on the Mini-Jacker. On the other hand, I suppose these things are not that critical on a kicker that's going to propel the boat at 5+ knots (as compared to the main).

I was just doing some epoxying "next door" on the transom, so didn't fool around with it too much for now. I'll have to see how it all works out in practice (glad I read about the thrust of the engine possibly flexing the leg forward; I'll watch that to make sure I use whatever adjustment hole is required to clear the trim plane).