Marine oil vs car oil

The dino vs. synthetic comparison was not exactly oranges to oranges.
Our outboards run cool and generally 'make oil' rather than burn it off.
 
Chester":ru4uheu3 said:
The dino vs. synthetic comparison was not exactly oranges to oranges.
Our outboards run cool and generally 'make oil' rather than burn it off.
Click to expand...

And this is why it is not so important what the good quality oil is you're putting in there is, but how often you change it. I pretty much change mine at 100 hours or 1 year of service. It's just so easy with an outboard - no excuses in comparison to a stern drive. I guess it has been working.....nearly 30 years on my Hondas without a lubrication related failure and tons and tons of hours.
 
Chester":1wmc7ncm said:
The dino vs. synthetic comparison was not exactly oranges to oranges.
Our outboards run cool and generally 'make oil' rather than burn it off.
Click to expand...

This was sure true with my old Honda 1999 40’s. They would at times increase oil levels when running long periods at displacement speed in cold water. I never knew their temperature except if cut back from an overheat. The 2019 Honda 60’s have nmea 2000 reporting temperatures. They run very similar to a auto or at least the temperature shown on the gauges does. At displacement speed of 6 mph & 2100 rpm on a single motor in 50 degree water, they maintain 175 degrees shown on the Honda gauge. When using both motors on plane at 20 mph at 4000 rpm the temperature is consistently around 215 degrees F.

On my old Honda 40’s I always used the Mobile 1 full synthetic extended milage oil. With the newer Honda 60’s I’m using the Honda brand motor oil until the warranty is gone, then will switch to Mobile 1.

I don’t disagree with T.R.’s advice & method as it sure has worked well for him. With twins & running just one at a time most of the time, I seldom exceed the recommended oil change schedule by just changing it once a year & the fully synthetic a costly addition, whose best contribution may be cold starts & possible over heating situations.

Jay
 
I follow the oil change standards of 100 hours or one year. However there are other factors. An engine which is "making oil" really has fuel getting into the crankcase and mixing with the oil. That does cause decreased viscosity and can increase wear. In the outboard which are run at low speed, this makes little difference. For high speed that is a different story, since the oil temperature, and wear is accelerated.

Although I have not done extended oil changes with an outboard. There is a case where it can be justified. For example going on the loop, running at displacement speeds all of the time. I would feel confident changing every 200 hours. Especially if running synthetic oil. In diesel engines I extended the 200 hour change interval to 300 or 400 hours on long passages where the engine was run at a constant 1500 RPM. In that case you are actually considering fuel use rather than time. On a passage you are running 24 hours in a day--if you stuck to the 100 hour--you would changing oil every 4 days.

The Sacramento Delta had (not sure if they are in operation now) short run car ferry boats which had a GM 6-71 which ran 24 hours a day at a constant 1200 RPM. The engines were never shut down. Oil was added by loss/or time if there was no loss--with a gallon removed and a fresh gallon added. (GM 6-71 diesels tend to "use oil" . The oil capacity is 8 gallons and a very efficient filtering system was used to remove contaminates. At the end of 2 years, the engines were shut down and had a full overhaul. 2 years x 24 hours, is 17280 hours. There was never a failure of these engines.
 
I do a complete oil change every spring. It's quick and easy. Originally, I was using "official" Suzuki-brand oil but now I just use a comparable 10w-40 synthetic blend that is much cheaper. We usually don't complete 200 hours per season, as we are still working stiffs (well, at least the Admiral is now), so the spring change is fine hours-wise.

This stuff was at my local Costco for $29. For you Mobil1 guys...

https://www.costco.com/kirkland-sig...or-oil-5-quart,-2-pack.product.100527865.html
 
cmetzenberg":2kh8j342 said:
Costco mobil 1!
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That's what I use in all my road vehicles. Good stuff and is the brand recommended for the Corvette. It goes on sale at Costco often enough to get it a good price. In my tractor and lawnmower I use Kirkland branded synthetic made for diesels. Costco has that on sale at the right intervals, too.

In the motors on the boat I have resigned myself to using the Suzuki branded synthetic blend even though the cost is about double. I figure it might make things easier if I ever need to use the six year Suzuki warranty. I order it from Boats.net and get four gallons at a time so it qualifies for free shipping.

Thanks for the video link. I watched it and thought it was pretty good and had some good information, but it didn't change my mind on the way I service any of my stuff.
 
Mike, I did the same when the Suzuki was under warranty. I sucked it up and bought the "Suzuki brand" oil. Once the warranty was done, however...

Can't blame you with that perty new 200...

The one engine I do baby with full synthetic (Shell Rotella T6) is the diesel truck, but only because the 6.0 (International) engine is so damned finicky. It has only 102K miles and it's a 2005! I need it to last until I don't need it anymore. I get the Rotella at Wally world, as that's the cheapest price I could find.
 
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