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Making things level
- Thread starter Doryman
- Start date
If you're working with the boat on the trailer...you should be close if you get the top edge of the bottom "gelcoat" color level, bow to stern and across the transom.
See how she sits.....
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
See how she sits.....
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
Wayne McCown
New member
Follow the lines on the boat and/or existing cabinetry.
Like boat speed, level is relative. Boat speed or actual speed over ground, for example, Absolute level or visual/apparent level? Depends on what you're installing, I suppose.
I go for visual level unless installing a bubble level for trimming the boat. Inside the cabin, visual level can be accomplished with a tape measure for both fore and aft and athwartships "apparent level". The bottom edge of the side windows or the countertop for fore/aft. Have not yet been concerned with athwartship leveling. Probably do something similar even if installing a bubble level at the helm.
AFAIC, if it looks level with the factory installed shelves, countertop, etc., it's close enough.
Don
I go for visual level unless installing a bubble level for trimming the boat. Inside the cabin, visual level can be accomplished with a tape measure for both fore and aft and athwartships "apparent level". The bottom edge of the side windows or the countertop for fore/aft. Have not yet been concerned with athwartship leveling. Probably do something similar even if installing a bubble level at the helm.
AFAIC, if it looks level with the factory installed shelves, countertop, etc., it's close enough.
Don
Put a level to various horizontal surfaces, primarily the sink counter and the dash right under the center window. When ppl enter the boat, they will tend to judge level by the bottom window lines and the largest horizontal surfaces.
I set my installations to match the center dash and the bottom window lines which happen to match the galley counter.
Just pick something obvious and note it, then stick with it over future intallations.
John
I set my installations to match the center dash and the bottom window lines which happen to match the galley counter.
Just pick something obvious and note it, then stick with it over future intallations.
John
CatyMae n Steve
New member
Ask a machinist! They have an eye for that kinda stuff :lol:
Caty
Caty
dogon dory
New member
Sorry, Folks - Post Deleted By Author
Steve Grover
New member
Use a plumb bob to find your stright down angle. Then go off that line at a ninty.
Some boats don't have large windows and areas which are parallel, so in these a level/plumb bob can be of a great deal of value. When we were building sailboats, we leveled the cockpit floor. We used a water level (clear plastic hose--50 or so feet long filled with water, to be sure that bot gunnels were level. The water level was used to lay out the waterline---
Another place we used a level was setting up the jig for borring the shaft log--a 36" long 2" diameter hole which had to be dead center and true.
In the Tom Cat--you have a level floor in the cabin. We have found that some of the factory cabnetry in the CD 25 is not symetrical or level--we shimmed the boat on the trailer to bring the cockpit floor level, and then checked other areas for level.
Perhaps in the age of computer lofting and mold carving, boats are perfect. But I know of a lot of boats (even prodection fiberglass) which are not symetrical or parallel--just minor human error when lofting the hull lines occures.
All in all we go with the eye and measurements more than a level--but still use a level for some critical measurements.
Another place we used a level was setting up the jig for borring the shaft log--a 36" long 2" diameter hole which had to be dead center and true.
In the Tom Cat--you have a level floor in the cabin. We have found that some of the factory cabnetry in the CD 25 is not symetrical or level--we shimmed the boat on the trailer to bring the cockpit floor level, and then checked other areas for level.
Perhaps in the age of computer lofting and mold carving, boats are perfect. But I know of a lot of boats (even prodection fiberglass) which are not symetrical or parallel--just minor human error when lofting the hull lines occures.
All in all we go with the eye and measurements more than a level--but still use a level for some critical measurements.
Hi Warren,
Good feedback here. As mentionned above, using something existing as datum is probably the best way to go, i.e. build parallel from those surface (window frame, countertop). Athwartships applies as well, but mind you the relatively wide passageway breaks up the lines when coming in the boat.
Having said that, being a naval design draftsperson and professional model maker, I have an eye for details but safe to say, most people do not. Good for you that you thought about this...you must be into details as well !. Nothing looks worst than something that looks "put-together".
Marc
Good feedback here. As mentionned above, using something existing as datum is probably the best way to go, i.e. build parallel from those surface (window frame, countertop). Athwartships applies as well, but mind you the relatively wide passageway breaks up the lines when coming in the boat.
Having said that, being a naval design draftsperson and professional model maker, I have an eye for details but safe to say, most people do not. Good for you that you thought about this...you must be into details as well !. Nothing looks worst than something that looks "put-together".
Marc