Make sure everything is good before setting out.

B

bridma

New member
My experience with water in the fuel cost me and put me in a dangerous situation. I am passing on to you what I learned so that it does not happen again, to you or me.

I approached the mooring buoy on my stbd fuel tank (good gas), and tied up for an overnight stop. In the morning I switched to port fuel tank (bad gas), started the engines, let go the buoy and puttered out into the main channel. The engines were still running on the good gas in the carbs. When the bad gas kicked in, the engines quit and would not restart.
My big mistake was starting the engines and setting off immediately. Had I started the engines, waited awhile for them to warm up, the problem would have shown itself while I was still tied to the buoy. Lesson learned..........warm those engines up first.

Martin.
 
Go plan. I was wandering, maybe you cover this some where else, do you have a fuel/water filter separator with a clear bowl? And if you do do you check it. I have one and I have drained water out of it many times. But that's what its there for. My 225 honda also has one on the motor. Very use full item to have.
 
I have a fuel/ water separator with clear bowl on order. I assume that most of you with a 22 put them out in the open in the splashwell ? There is not enough room in my lazerette to mount it and have enough space underneath the bowl to drain off any crap.

Martin.
 
Glad it didn't become a tragedy. Did you drop the anchor?
I second the use of a primary fuel filter-separator with a see through bowl. Our boat came with them mounted inside the transom between the fuel tanks. Were I to mount them myself I'd consider the splashwell area so's a second bilge pump could go between the tanks without having to have fuel lines and an electrical device in close proximity.
 
I'm with Tom here. I have a Racor Filter with the clear bowl and always check my the bowl each day, as part of the pre start inspection. There are a number of things which need to be checked--and perhaps this is the place, or another thread.

This does not address the bad fuel. Where did the bad fuel come from? Why did you fill one tank and not the other?

I try and buy fuel from stations which are selling large volumes. If I see a fuel truck arrive, I go out. (the tanks will be low, and more likely to have contaminated fuel), if a fuel truck is leaving, then I am more likely to pull in, since there will be full tanks of fresh fuel. It is not always possible to do this. In Mexico, I always put a small amount of fuel into a Mason jar to check and see if there was contamination present. I also used a "Baja" filter, with a series of finer screens and a water settlement basin.

I did re-read your post about Friday Harbor Fuel.

You asked about additives. First I try and avoid ethanol in fuel. Florida most marinas have ethanol free--Calif. not so. I add Startron, and Ring Free by Yamaha. I have avoided Sea Foam after Marc of Wefing's suggested against it. (I did use Sea Foam before.) If there is going to be a month between times I run the boat, then Stabil.
 
Good suggestions from Tom, and from Dr Bob. I have a filter with the clear bowl - I just have to remember to look at it! It's easy to get complacent. I've never had bad fuel. I do use Stabil pretty religiously. Thanks to Martin, Tom and Bob for the important reminder.
 
thataway":gb3par6l said:
This does not address the bad fuel. Where did the bad fuel come from? Why did you fill one tank and not the other?

You asked about additives. First I try and avoid ethanol in fuel. Florida most marinas have ethanol free--Calif. not so. I add Startron, and Ring Free by Yamaha. I have avoided Sea Foam after Marc of Wefing's suggested against it. (I did use Sea Foam before.) If there is going to be a month between times I run the boat, then Stabil.
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Hi Bob,

The fuel issue was quite a lengthy explanation, I put it in the Friday Harbor post. Well that's a bummer, I just bought some Sea Foam because some of the other guys recommended it. Not on a regular basis, but 3 times, at the beginning, mid, and end of season. I have not put mine in yet. I also got some blue Stabil.
Quick question about the fuel/water separator with the clear bowl. Can you drain off water and crap while the engine(s) are still running, or do they need to be turned off?

Martin.
 
Chester":1jzcog99 said:
Glad it didn't become a tragedy. Did you drop the anchor?
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No I did not drop the anchor. I was in local waters that I knew, and in a 140'. I know where it gets shallow and if I had drifted into 75', I would have dropped the anchor. Interestingly, when I broke down, I had current opposing wind. In the 40 mins I waited for a tow, I never moved!

Martin.
 
P1000873.jpg

Easy spot to drain if need be we stick a rubber tube on the drain and drain into a clear cup, easy to look at for water build up, easy spot to change filter. Fumes can dissipate with out stinking up your boat. I don't like surprises in the lazarettes
D.D.
 
I do not drain the fuel filter with the engine running. You can break the suction and pull in air.

I would go ahead and use the Sea Foam--I used it for a number of years and didn't have any problems with it. I don't remember what Marc's issue was with the Sea Foam. I know some folks think it will loosen up some "crud" if the tank is contaminated.

To clarify the fuel issue it appeared as if you got "caught" when the fuel depot switched tanks, and probably got the bottom of the tank. One of my fears is getting a bad load of diesel--some pumps actually have filters on the pump itself. I like that--if the filter is new.

I once got the bottom of the tank when I was chartering a boat to the Bahamas. Fortunately it was a sail boat and I had a 3 hp outboard to push the boat around to the deck. I ran out of filters. The owner of the boat finally had to pull the tank to get it clean... It is very difficult to know at many marinas when they are at the bottom of the tank.

Maybe Marc will chime in. (I'll send him an e-mail).

Bob
 
Here is the reply from Marc Grove of Wefing's via e-mail:

"Seafoam was originally for 40's and 50's outboards. that was back in the days when you could add alcohol to gasoline and absorb the water and then run it through the engine. it's a very inexpensive solvent that they sell for a lot of money. I'm also not sure it's safe for oxygen sensors and the like. Yamaha ring free as a much more powerful detergent and cleaner.
Marc"
 
I have the Racor clear bowl in starboard lazarette as my batteries were put on the floor between tanks prior to delivery. I insisted. So there is room for the filter in the laz and is on my pre flight check to see if there is any water in it. There is just room to open the drain, I keep a bit of oil absorb pad as it's too skinny for a dish to live under there. I am like Bob, really look for the high volume places and try to fill while on the trailer at busy gas stations I don't buy "marked gas" as it may be old due to low sales volume. I am leery of marinas early in the season for the reason's Bob points out. So far, not seen any water in gas. glad you're all sorted out Martin. Always carry food water booze and blankets and music for an engine issue. Sometimes you may need to wait for a tow. Have lunch! George
 
Not gas related, but might have helped save the day.

After the Suspender PFD is on I start the process.

My start up routine:
1. Turn Electric power switch to Both On. ( I also record the bat levels on 1,2, & Both)
2. Put engines down.
3. Pump bulbs to firm
4. Turn keys to on
5. Check bulbs again for firm
6. Start OB 1 and let it run for about 30 seconds
7. Then start OB 2. Watch tachs for rpms.
8. Turn on VHF's
9. Turn on Trim tab switch
10. Lightly rev each engine, to mid 2K rpms.
11. Plug in and turn on Garmain b/u GPS
12. Turn on Navigation instrument switch, then Raymarine MFD. (It will take about 75 seconds for the Radar to warm up before it can be turned on. --->> Raymarine MFD is the last switch to turn on and the first to turn off)

Process will take about 5 minutes. From start-up to away from the dock will be about 7-10 min usually. OB's are fully warmed up, and maintain idle.

For shut down the process is reversed in exact order.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon
 
If I'm running on tank number one for both engines, and all is well AT THE DOCK, I will then switch to tank number two for both engines and if all is well, then I'm off on that tank number two with pretty high confidence that tank number one will be okay mid cruise when I switch to it. The only possible problem would be if I'm out on the bounding main and something gets loosened up in what I believe is my good back-up tank.

In 50 years of boating, I've never had a fuel problem from contamination or water with the single exception of some algaed diesel in my 32 foot gulf motor sailer. I do have the water separator in my CD22, but have never had to drain water out. But, I don't live nor do I nomrally boat in the super wet climates of the north west or other humid areas.
 
If you're moored in a slip or launching at an uncrowded marina, you've got all the time in the world and should take advantage of that.... checking all your systems, etc.

There are times though, when the salmon fishing is hot, or its opening day of shrimping at 6:00 am with a line of impatient fisherman behind you waiting..... its not the best policy to spend 10 minutes warming everything up and checking everything. I really appreciate the really experienced guys that get in and get the *&#% out of the way :disgust.

That's my opinion and its just from seeing so many confrontations and uncomfortable situations at saltwater launches over the years.

A little safety check before you've left your driveway is the solution. And that's the advantage of mooring, if you can afford it. We can't!
 
Brianna says I sounded harsh and I am grouchy in the mornings! lol

Its usually bayliner type boats that haven't been run in months..... have dead batteries or wont start that cause the drama!

Safety is the most important thing!
 
I vote with getting out of the way at the launch, especially if other folks are waiting. If it worked fine coming in, and you haven't changed anything, it should probably work fine going out. If in doubt, you can always run it on the muff(s) before leaving your driveway. If still not sure at the ramp, at least back out of the way and just stay in the near vicinity until you are comfortable it's all going to work. Nothing I hate worse than waiting for some yahoo to pull right up to the ramp, then start prepping his boat for launch, or pulling out a few feet and then prepping for the drive home. I do have the fuel/water seperator/filter clear bowl located in the transom well for my single 115 EFI. I recently installed a 6hp kicker, and it has its own fuel system. I'm careful where I buy fuel, and maintain my filters religiously. I have managed to get bad gas in my car and diesel in my tractor, so I know it can happen. Colby
 
Wondering about with twin engines on the C Dory and running both engines on one tank--is this the usual procedure? Or do you run one engine on each tank. That is what I have done with diesels, and the Tom Cat. With the diesels I had a transfer pump to equalize the tanks if necessary (Both single and twin diesels).

As for "at the ramp". If the boat has not been run for a few weeks, I will run it on the muffs at home either the night before or just before going to the launch. You don't want an engine problem at the ramp--yep, I have been behind some who block the ramp also!
 
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