Lower Carrier Bearing Housing

C

CDory23

New member
I need to replace the oil seals on my 2003 Yamaha F40 Lower carrier bearing housing. I bought the puller to remove it easily since it seems these can be a paint to remove and light prying did not budge it. I have the bearing oil seals but unfortunately there is also an O ring I didn't know about that seals water from the hub that won't arrive in time for me to make my voyage on Friday. Has anybody removed this housing and re-used these rings? Parts 50 & 51. Think I can salvage the O rings and reinstall with just the bearing oil seals?

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamah ... parts.html

Thanks
 
Applying heat to the case around the carrier can help. Use propane or mapp gas, or perhaps a heat gun, never acetylene. Heat the case all around the carrier to expand the case. if the paint is smoking, that is enough heat. The heat can damage the o-rings, but so can just pulling the carrier. If the orings leak, that is just as bad as having the seals leak, either way you can get water in the gearcase.

Consider just using the motor as is and change out the gear oil when you return. Modern outboard gear oil has additives to absorb some water.
 
Thanks for the reply,

I would have used as is since it wasn't a large leak to begin with but unfortunately I have already damaged the outer seal trying to remove it without the removing the actual assembly... Maybe I could still try to just remove and replace the outer seal while leaving the carrier barrier housing in place for just this trip and then later replace everything properly. I originally tried to remove seals with barrier housing in place but got nervous about damaging the prop shaft by drilling and using self tapping screw to remove the seal so stopped doing it the "hack" way. I would hope that this method if done carefully wouldn't damage the inner seal... Any thoughts?
 
If you get the outer seal out, inspect the inner seal closely.

If no damage seen, install the outer.

When I worked Evinrude/Johnson, we had a tool that could remove the seals with the carrier in place. It was a hollow tube with tapered threads on the end. It slipped over the prop shaft and threaded into the seal, then pull. I don't know if Yamaha has the same thing, it depends on how the seals are made.

That prop shaft and its replacement labor is spendy. Probably cheaper to take the motor to the shop for the seal change.
 
SIM Yamaha has several quick delivery options
call
888-231-2392

about them and if items are in stock

Anyone close to you have them?
 
Thanks again for all the replies.

I want to get the job done right so I"im gonna hold off on the next trip. I will have all the proper tools/gaskets soon and will be replacing all oil seals/o rings associated with the lower unit when they arrive. I will then pressure test it per the yamaha manual and go from there. Luckly I have a pressure tester I can borrow from work.

I only noticed a very slight milk in the gear oil so maybe I"m getting ahead of myself, but at this point since I have everything might as well get both motors and all seals done as preventative maintenance.

Do others notice small hints of milk in there gear oil when changing? Maybe a very small amount is somewhat normal?
 
Well this Lower Bearing Carrier is very tough to get out! I've heated with propane torches, sprayed lubricant as well as possible and tried several ways to pull out. the most succesful being this modification on a regular puller. I may have moved it 1/64"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLlNOumzPTY

The problem I had with that method was getting it to pull out straight. It always leaned a small bit to one side and the chain links I was able to attach to the carrier started to bend.

I just ordered this $$$$$ tool as my last shot to get this job done, and then I"m going to just take it in. I talked to the Owner, and if it doesn't fit or it doesn't work I will return it.

http://marinetechtools.com/lower-bearin ... uller.html
 
Not sure what oil you are using. I like to really soak parts with PB Blaster, AeroKroil, ACF- 50 etc..for at least 24 hours--applying more every few hours.

Then heating the outer housing. Immediately apply CRC "Spray Freeze-Off" (extremes of this would be using dry ice.) The spray freeze is not inflammable, but I certainly would not breath the fumes or spray.

Too much force may damage carrier bearing or housing....I would think that you could modify a wheel puller (making your own "arms" )to slip under the carrier bearing--and pull it out that way....

Combination--pulling with a modified gear puller, after soling well with the penetrating oil--heating all around the housing, then hit the inner part with the Freeze spray, and maybe even a light tap with a hammer. Keep the pressure with the puller all thru this-cranking a little if necessary. I would have at least a 5 ton puller (just to have enough beef in the threads to avoid stripping.--probably square threads (well lubed) are gong to be better.
 
I've been using Aerokroil. I have not tried the "freeze off" method so will try that.

I agree a tool could be modified farily easily, but I don't have time to do it before a Lake Shasta trip I have planned with being away all next week for work. At this point I've ordered the overpriced tool for the job and if it works I'd still be saving money and time from bringing in to shop.

What is the risk with too much force? Perhaps damaging the reverse gear or bearings? What would be too much force? Should I set a torque wrench to it to confirm I don't apply to much?

I saw a thread where someone was mentioning needing to put the motor in forward gear, but I believe he was referring to an in/out motor. The service manual diagram for the Yami 40 shows the whole carrier in place with nothing holding it in except for the 2 bolts on outside which I have obviously removed.
 
The puller you show puts pressure on the prop shaft end and pulls on the carrier. Do NOT strike the end of the puller with a hammer. The force of a hammer strike would be transmitted to the forward gear thrust bearing and could damage the bearing rollers or races.

The puller force path is from the screw, down the propshaft, thru the forward gear thrust bearing to the case. The force then goes back thru the case to the stuck bearing carrier. The puller arms take the force to the puller plate and screw.

I would not recommend the YouTube method shown. That is make do and unsafe. The shackles and chain are not load rated to match the puller. If the puller screw leans over, it could fly off sideways, with potential injury. Same thing if a shackle or chain link fails. If you generate several tons of force with the puller screw and a part fails, injury or damage can result. There is a reason why the manufacturers create and sell the special tools to do these jobs.

I noted that in the YouTube video, he does not show the puller actually removing the bearing carrier!

A $200 tool is less than two hours of $$ shop time these days.

Have you checked the official Yamaha shop manual for the correct procedure?
 
Larry,
My though with light hammer taps was around the periphery of the housing where the carrier bearing holder was stuck. Just enough vibration to help to break that adhesion (which is probably due to corrosion), Agree certainly not on the end of the puller (although I have seen this used--there are serious risks).
 
Thanks for all of the replies. Unfortunately I have hit the end of the modified puller with a hammer while trying to remove. I won't do this anymore but yes will give light taps to the sides of where the housing is stuck. I will make sure to inspect everything carefully before re installation. Live and learn. I'll update the progress when I come back next Saturday and the proper tool should have arrived. I talked to a Yami mechanic who said you often have to repaint the lower unit because it may be necessary to get it so hot that the paint is removed.
 
When I was working on Evinrude/Johnsons, I would heat the housings 'till the paint smoked' . Sometimes past that point, so a repaint would be needed. If heating, try to get the heat into the housing fast, perhaps two torches at once. The idea is to heat the housing, and not have too much heat transfer to the carrier.
Never use an acetylene torch, they get hot enough to melt aluminum. MAPP gas works faster than propane, and should not melt anything.

I would tension the puller first, then apply heat, and then tighten the puller.

Good luck on your repair.
 
I ended up having to take the Lower unit to a mechanic. The tool I referenced earlier (Marine Tech) was too large my F40. The Mechanic was able to remove it but broke both bolt flanges in the process. Every other Mechanic I talked to over the phone said there is no guaruntee it won't break upon removal so I hold nothing against this mechanics work. I'm happy he was just able to remove it. He works exclusively on Yamahas, communicates well, and charges a fair price. For the time being I installed new seals and O rings and it is being held in place with washers and the bolts to the parts of the flanges that are still there. I'm going to buy a used unit and replace it in when I get back from Shasta next week.
 
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