Lewmar V700 windlass installation

Hello, I ordered some premade wire for my windlass install and I wanted tell everyone that what I received was just great. I ordered and recevied four days later. I think this very reasonable at about half of what it would cost for the material alone at West Marine. Please let me know if this was a bargain or not. Wire vendor


GREG'S MARINE WIRE SUPPLY
PO BOX 264
GREENVILLE PA 16125-0264

Wire 56 x 0.79 = 44.24
Lugs 10 x 0.79 = 7.90
Labor 10 x 1.00 = 7.00
Shipping = 7.95

Total = 67.09

2 ft Red AWG #8 marine tinned W 3/8 x 5/16 Lugs and shrink wrap

16 ft Red AWG #8 marine tinned W 5/16 x 5/16 Lugs and shrink wrap

11 ft Red AWG #8 marine tinned W 5/16 x 5/16 Lugs and shrink wrap

16 ft Black AWG #8 marine tinned W 5/16 x 5/16 Lugs and shrink wrap

11 ft Black AWG #8 marine tinned W 5/16 x 5/16 Lugs and shrink wrap
 
Greg's Website Looks great. If my windlass wasn't already wired mostly up, I'd buy some too. I just have to add the relay. Will keep them in mind for future orders though. Pricing looks very reasonable!! As long as your tape measure was accurate!! :shock:

Charlie
 
I bought the dash switch and a foot switch from Ebay. Same guy has a relay the might be what you are looking for.
He offered it to me for $25.00 but I have already spent more than the boss has given me permission to spend for a while. Last week it did not sell but he has it listed for $35 which is still about half price. if you trust Ebay?

Item number: 220831421584
SIMPSON LAWRENCE WINDLASS CONTROL SOL.

THIS IS A CONTROL THAT IS SUITABILITY FOR THE MODELS HORIZON EXPRESS ,HORIZON 1500.SPRINT 900, SPRINT 1500, ANCHORMAN POWER 700, ANCHORMAN 1000
 
I'm thinking about the installing the windlass control box that Les and Joe describe.

Is it better to locate the solenoid near the batteries (under the aft dinette seat in my case) or near the windlass? Or does it matter either way?

jd
 
nimrod":2rua653c said:
I'm thinking about the installing the windlass control box that Les and Joe describe.

Is it better to locate the solenoid near the batteries (under the aft dinette seat in my case) or near the windlass? Or does it matter either way?

jd
Click to expand...

I'd put it where it's most likely to both stay out of the moisture and be easiest to install and work on, and that would be the back of the helm station, IMHO.

Both the under seat location and forward by the windlass are harder to work on locations, and are more likely to have moisture condensation around them, I'd think. Plus the extra wiring and relay itself would look more at home behind the helm.

Also, if you want to make a hand-held wired remote to stick up through the forward hatch to be able to remotely work the windlass from the front deck when you're experiencing a fouled rode or need to help wash down / brush off the anchor and / or rode, it will be easier to wire it into this location than the other two.

Just my two cents worth! Have fun!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Finally installed the big relay on Captain's Cat. In a demo to the new owner a couple of weeks ago, it worked great. I had already replaced the little switch which worked for awhile but got quirky again. Very easy to wire up, a couple of new red ones and all the old ones just "bolted" on.

Thataway only has the little switch and Capt. Bob never mentioned any problems with it and the couple of times I've been out and used it, it was fine. Not sure what that is due to except maybe b/c CC has the V700 and Thataway has a horizontal one (not sure if it's the ProFish or not, never looked).

Charlie
 
I just got through changing the Lewmar windlass switch from a V600 to a V700 option. Installed the V700 last summer, but used the old switch.

The V600 has a manual switch, which is NOT the same as the switch that comes with the V700. The V600 switch is heavy enough to take the V600 motor current but certainly needs to be changed out for the V700.

The V700 comes with a relay and micro switch for the relay control. It seemed reasonable to use the existing windlass power wires and just rewire them to the relay. I found a place on the front of the V-berth bulkhead that could accommodate the relay and the wires would reach. As Sea Wolf/Joe said, it makes no difference where the relay goes, but keep it protected. C-Dory used 8 ga wire for the windlass, as usual a good job. I drilled out the wire lugs to fit on the relay. If/when you screw that up, WM sells new ones.

The new manual control switch is smaller than the old V600 switch so I used the existing mounting place and ran the required wires. Lewmar suggests a 3 amp fuse in the power line to the switch, got one from an auto parts store.

Lewmar also supplies a 35 amp breaker, don't forget to install that, if it's a new install. Again doesn't matter where it goes, just between the battery and relay. I used the existing one, same size.

So there's a number of wires, each needs to be terminated and dressed. Mount everything where you can get easy access, both to install the relay/breaker/control switch and run the wires. Hate to quote Joe twice in one post, but he's right.

Boris
 
Does anyone know whether the little switch that comes with a 700H is different than the 700V switch? It might explain why Thataway has had no problems while Captain's Cat did. It certainly LOOKS the same on the dash but I have not looked at the back and the terminals.

Charlie
 
Never had any problems with the switch. I had the Pro fish on the 25, and didn't not use the free fall feature. For my personal use I would not opt for that feature.

The current draw of these is not a lot, if you use them properly. But I would prefer a set of relays. To put 35 or 50 amps thru a toggle switch is a lot!
 
Charlie,

I don't know the difference between a 700H or a 700V. Looking through the various catalogues and the Lewmar site, all I can find is a Lewmar V700, and not a H700 (or 700H.) Any of the other Lemar windlasses claim more pulling power, and thus must draw more current. Nevertheless, I assume that whatever works for a Sprint 600 (the original Lewmar cheap windlass) will also work for a V700. It seems to me that a relay can handle more switched current than the manual switch.

Don't confuse the switch that operates the relay with the direct manual switch. They're different animals. The relay switch is a microswitch, whilst the manual switch has buss bars and can switch the full motor current.

Also, I noticed that Defender is now selling a replacement motor for both the Sprint 600 AND the V700, for ~$140. I guess I'm not the Lone Ranger. Too late for me, but if the V700 falters, I have a reasonable way to rebuild it.

Boris
 
The 700H is shown on this Page next to the 700V. Primary difference is that, on the H, the motor is above deck, not below. Additionally, the gypsy head is at right angles to the one on the V model. I replaced a 600 with the 700V on Captain's Cat shortly after I got the boat, it suffered water intrusion. I shipped it to Starcraft Tom, who, I think, fixed it.

The switch that came installed on my first TC255 (Captain's Cat) (and the one on Dr. Bob's boat) was the small up/down switch on the dash. Captain's Cat's was originally connected directly to the windlass, no contactor, if that's what you call the solenoid relay. That operates much like the starter solenoid on an automobile that carries the full starting current of the starter (like the windlass). The little rocker switch is like the ignition switch on the car and only carries a few amps. Without the solenoid relay, hooked directly to the windlass, it carries the full motor current which is considerable.

The 700H can be ordered as a ProFish too and it, I believe has a freefall option. The one on Thataway (the dash switch) is the same but has, to my knowledge never had the problem that my old one had. Don't know why.
 
I am ready to purchase my Lewmar V700g Vertical Windlass. I have found all of the info I need reading the posts except the starting dimension where I measure from. So the rode drops where it is supposed to.
 
Start from where the rode will fall (the rope locker). Drill a small hole UP and use that with the template you'll get with the windlass.

Oh, and take instructive pictures for our archives.

Charlie
 
I am sure that would be close enough but I thought I read that information somewhere on this site before but cant rember where.
 
equip":1fw1uf9n said:
I am sure that would be close enough but I thought I read that information somewhere on this site before but cant rember where.
Click to expand...

HERE it is. To find it I used the site google function and searched for <windlass AND V700 AND installation>. It's fast and simple to find stuff that way. Hope it helps. Happy Turkey Day!

Charlie
 
First post, but hoping to enter quietly and absorb knowledge :)

Installation tips here all make sense and seem doable.... my big question is how is it possible to ensure that the anchor can self-launch without having to go forward to give it a helpful push off the bow roller.

We run a Bruce type claw that sits pretty secure, and would like to avoid having to kick it over in order to then lower remotely with switch at helm. Of course, it would be ideal to do everything from the helm.

What are the best strategies for this?

Was thinking about some kind of wedge arrangement in which the anchor would be pulled up and held by the windlass on an incline... then when the tension is relaxed, maybe the anchor would launch by gravity alone?

Surely would appreciate experienced opinions here,

Thanks from Cape Lookout area of NC,

M
 
LookoutNC- you might try searching the C-Brat site for "anchor roller" or similar topics. (see the search box on the upper left of this page) Here's one to begin with; http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... fcc27e2bf'
Here's a picture of a split roller that will fall forward when tension on the rode is released (thanks SeaWolf Joe) Sometimes it's even a problem to insure that the anchor doesn't launch when you don't want it to.IM001970.jpg
 
Marty, is that gel coat dings on your bow by the anchor flukes? I have a non-self launching Bruce on Nomad. My anchor wench holds the anchor away from the boat before lowering.

Martin.
 
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