A comment about LED colored lights. I have been in several situations where the colored rope lights on a vessel have made it very difficult to visualize the proper red and green navigation lights. The colored lights are fine at a dock, but underway, or even at anchor, if they can be seen by a boat underway, they can cause confusion to other boats. We had the white lights under a hard top on a 42 foot Symbol we owned and these made excellent mood lighting and were usually used at the dock.
The other is about battery voltage. The table given above is relevent for batteries which have been sitting for at least 3 hours--better for overnight rest, with no charge or dischare. The general experience is that higher voltages represent real life use on boats--where various systems (lights, waterpumps, refigeration, nav instruments etc) are in regular use. For realistic battery management I find that following voltages will serve you better in the long run, and what we have used on all of our cruising boats, including where we were dependant on large banks to run all of the boat systems with only charging once a day.
State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
12V
100% 1.265 12.7
*75% 1.225 12.4
50% 1.190 12.2
25% 1.155 12.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9
The problem is that sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4. Sulfation hardens the battery plates reducing and eventually the capacity, and eventually leading to pre-mature death of the battery.
For this reason we never let our batteries go below 12.2 volts, and generally use the battery in the 12.4 volt to 12.7 volt range. In our 2month trip this summer, we never had the battery voltage drop to more than 12.2 volts. This was running refigeration, lights at night and other systems at anchor about 50% of the nights, sometimes for two to 3 days. We size our battery banks to allow us to keep the voltage above 12.2 volts.