leaky cockpit hatches - rehash please

One of the best (and cheapest) ideas I got from this site came from Wild Blue (thanks!):

HatchHolderE.jpg

I leave the hatches like this whenever I leave the boat now. It has greatly reduced the amount of mold that grows back.
 
For those of you who still have the leaky lazarette hatches (like I do), and have not swapped them out yet. Smear copious amounts of vaseline on the rubber seal, and the underside and topside of the handle.
Does it keep water out ? The answer is no. But it does reduce the amount of moisture that gets through.

Martin.
 
bridma":2fy8ic3m said:
I have fixed my two leaky hatches for less than $15. See in my album under Mods.

Cost for materials for FINAL VERSION is $15.
It would have been a lot more money than that to make the 8-10 versions it would have taken me to get it right! :wink:

NICE!
 
Although the fabric covers is a good way to help the leaking problems for the 22 lazarette hatches on the 22's, I don't believe that it will solve the problem of the leaking cockpit deck hatches on the 25, which is the subject of this thread...
 
thataway":3vxwr1dc said:
Although the fabric covers is a good way to help the leaking problems for the 22 lazarette hatches on the 22's, I don't believe that it will solve the problem of the leaking cockpit deck hatches on the 25, which is the subject of this thread...


Ooops, silly me for posting in the wrong thread :oops:
Not worth moving it over now to a different thread, so I'll just leave it here.

Martin.
 
Matt Gurnsey":11b28rvx said:
On the topic of the wet bilge 25's- has anyone added ventilation to the boat's lazarette and has that reduiced the mold issues?


I made a removable solar fan from an old deck lid, PVC reducer, a little 4000 UV and a SunForce fan from Amazon for less $55 and
the fan has an one year warranty

see
https://plus.google.com/photos/10067796 ... 2070397921

https://plus.google.com/photos/10067796 ... 9606780833


https://plus.google.com/photos/10067796 ... 2070397921
 
We have replaced the gaskets and added the trusses and those cockpit hatches still leak.
If enough people were interested I bet we could get a custom hatch made that would fit the existing cut out. Anchor Hatches says they do custom hatches and I am sure there are other sources.

For now I just gave up and replaced the bilge pump with a Whale bilge IC pump, http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/produc ... D=Bilge-IC we took the feet off the pickup, sealed all the old screw holes with marinetex and epoxied the pick up down. It will remove all but a trace of water from the bilge

Any body interested in looking into a custom hatch let me know and I will get some prices
Best
Eric
 
Newsky":b3m3zdi2 said:
I really appreciate the insight and experience shared. I live in Alaska so not so concerned about burning feet on aluminum hatches if you follow. My wife would find that concern funny. :? Appreciate the comment about replacing the seals....., have considered that and may do that depending upon how fast I get the new hatches. This is the one area, though, as you all know where I hope to keep things completely dry. I'm a relatively new owner and have been following some of the glitchy issues of this boat, but I have to tell you that this site and everyone's combined experience makes new boat ownership so much more enjoyable.

Send me a PM or Email and I’ll give you my address and phone number if you’d like to come by the house and look at what I did to waterproof my Laz hatches, I live in Mid Town Anchorage.

The modification is not perfect, I don’t think they make a hinged floor hatch that’s going to be absolutely water tight, especially when you accesses them on a regular basses. Stuff gets between the hatch cover and seals and when you open the hatch this stuff compromises the integrity of the seals.

You need to eliminate any space for stuff to accumulate around the catch cover and seals, that’s essentially what it did. Also, like others have pointed out you’ll need to attach a stiffener of some kind to the underside of the hatch; I used aluminum angle attached with flathead machine screws sealed with 5200.

In a nutshell I filled all the space with silicon than used a release agent on the hatch cover, then closed the hatch and let the silicon cure.
The seals are hollow so you’ll need to blow them out with air to dry the interior and clean everything silicon contacts with acetone; this doesn’t mean you fill the seals with silicon.

Additionally, silicon plumber’s grease adds additional sealing ability when applied around the hatch seal.

All the snaps, railings, screw heads etc. on or around the cockpit have the potential to leak also.

Grated a perfectly dry lazarette is desirable but most likely an inaccessible reality.


You’re more than welcome to come by, I have the whole boat under cover with access and lots of head room, check out the man cave in my album.
 
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