leaky cockpit hatches - rehash please

N

Newsky

New member
I know this has been covered in past posts, but looking for any new insight into fixing or replacing leaky cockpit hatches. I'm a relatively new 2007 C-Dory 25 owner with the original problematic cockpit floor hatches.

All suggestions and thoughts appreciated. :)
 
Barry, I think he means the cockpit floor "deck" on a 25' not the lazarettes on a 22.

Newsky, HERE IS A THREAD in that forum where a 25 owner replaced/rebuilt the cockpit steps and in the process recaulked the big hatches. Is that what you want/need?

Charlie
 
I may be on the wrong forum so pardon that. I'm looking at replacing the two main floor hatches, not the cockpit deck steps. Those two floor hatches on the cockpit deck of the 25' cruiser are super leaky, which I believe others have been dealing with. I'm relatively new to this site so haven't been following what others have done. Tanks so much.
 
The one I mentioned showed (as well as steps being replaced), the big hatches you mentioned having the edges caulked to prevent water leaking to the bilge. Isn't that what you were looking for?

Charlie
 
Charlie, the one you linked to shows the caulking about the complete cockpit deck being renewed. Not the small small hatches which Newsky is referring to. Unfortunately most all of the plastic hatches leak. They are just not strong enough with the plastic. It is a very good idea to take the hatch out, then remove any rotten balsa core, fill the edges with thick epoxy, then fill the screw holes, and put the hatch back in place with Boat Life Life Caulk. (combo silicon and urethane which works well with plastic.

To make them water tight, you have to go with one of the aluminum deck hatches--more expensive, and most are oval, rather than rectangle. Even when we rebuilt the cockpit floor of the 25 with Nadicore, we did not go to the aluminum hatch, and lived with the leak. Here are some links for the hatches which are water proof.
http://www.baiermarine.com/37171/Aluminum-Hatches.html
http://www.freemanmarine.com/Hatches2400Summary.htm
http://www.pompanette.com/pomp.nsf/0/581F542AAEBE53CE8525762400165BFB?Open

In the sizes you want they will start somewhere about $500 each on up to over $1500 depending on brand and size. So you can see why they are not "standard" on the C Dory!
 
Sunbeam,
That hatch is only a little over 8" x 11"--and is the same hatch as on the Bomar web site--but discounted by Hamilton Marine which is a distributer.

I have not used Hamilton, but they may well be a good source.
 
I guess I should have chosen a different (larger) one for the example - oops! I do know a few people who have put one of the same type in a cockpit sole and been happy with them, but they were around 13" x 18" (just estimating). They did purchase them from Hamilton.
 
All good suggestions. I think replacing with aluminum hatches, while a bit more pricey, is worth a dry bilge. I've noticed when the boat is on the trailer I get water intrusion coming likely from the bilge and running forward into cabin. I've read about others having a similar problem. I'd like to get the bilge dry for that and other reasons of course and the hatches are definitely leaking like a sieve. I'll start calling around to see if i can find the hatches. if there are links on hatch replacements that would be awesome. Thanks so much.
 
Newsky":26s7rfh4 said:
All good suggestions. I think replacing with aluminum hatches, while a bit more pricey, is worth a dry bilge. I've noticed when the boat is on the trailer I get water intrusion coming likely from the bilge and running forward into cabin. I've read about others having a similar problem. I'd like to get the bilge dry for that and other reasons of course and the hatches are definitely leaking like a sieve. I'll start calling around to see if i can find the hatches. if there are links on hatch replacements that would be awesome. Thanks so much.
Click to expand...

Newsky, in the little search box on any page put <hatch AND replacement> and hit enter. It's just another DIY project! :lol:

Charlie
 
Your best shot is to pull one of the current hatches, measure the hole, and then find an aluminum hatch which will fit that or slightly larger. Then do the cut out of the new hole--if necessary remove any wet core. If no wet core (after the cut out--you will have some now)--then slight undercut, epoxy seal the edges, and then drill the holes for screws--over size drill, epoxy plug, with slight under cut--and then pilot holes in the plugs, and secure the al hatches with sealant. Should be end of problem. There are many reasons to seal these decks, including keeping the fuel tank dry, any water or macerator pump (depending on the year), keeping water out of the bilge, plus preventing any further core damage.

Looking at size and type--Hamilton has the "Aluminum Deck Hatches HM-H1624A, Made from anodized 1/4" thick marine grade aluminum with stainless steel locking mechanism. Anti-slip surface. Water tight, installs flush on the deck. Easy to open and lock. OD of deck flange is 19.5"x27.5"
 This uses 4 bolts, so you have to use their "T" wrench, but if you are not opening it frequently this might be a great alternative, and is a bit cheaper in the about $375 price range. (thanks to Sunbeam for the Hamilton link)

Great project, which is fairly simple to do--just $$ and time!
 
Be aware, those aluminum hatches get HOT in the direct sun!

Bare feet beware!

I had one in the cockpit of my previously-owned Sundowner Tug:

lgexteriorcockpitview.jpg
 
Ray":rlvult66 said:
Be aware, those aluminum hatches get HOT in the direct sun!
Click to expand...

Good point. I believe the series I linked to come in white as well (but are still aluminum) (even though I linked to a small, self-colored one).
 
Newsky -

I replaced the weather seals around my hatches with slightly thicker material. The old weather seals looked fairly worn out and compressed down (not to mention the dirt and grime). My hatches leaked badly.

With the new, slightly thicker weather seals, closing and latching the hatches requires pushing down on the hatch where I never had to do that before. The seal is much better and most of the water stays out of the bilge. It's still not completely water tight, but I no longer need to turn on my bilge pump after hosing down the cockpit.

I believe there are at least two brats that built trusses on the underside of the hatch. In addition to stiffening, the truss pre-bends the outer edges of the hatches down. This makes the seal much better since the latch is only in the center.

Here's a link to one of them (Sea Skipper):

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

House_Bank.jpg
 
There are two types of hatches on the cockpit of the post 2002 C Dory 25's. I have been referring to what was on my 2003. It was a plastic hatch, similar to what is on the lazarette of the 22. I was not able to make that leak proof with new seals etc. I don't have a photo of the hatch, but do have a photo of the cutout when we put in the new Nadicore deck.

2007_05_16_001.jpg'

If you have the same as the 2008, then there are several other options, with the new gaskets and strong back. The aluminum hatches can be painted, or sprayed with bed liner to make them cooler under foot. I read today that a patron was suing a YC in So. Calif because he burned his bare feet on an aluminum ramp to the dock! It got up to 120 degrees in the summer heat. Hot, but I wonder how much damage it might cause. Even raw teak can be hot in the summer sun...
 
I really appreciate the insight and experience shared. I live in Alaska so not so concerned about burning feet on aluminum hatches if you follow. My wife would find that concern funny. :? Appreciate the comment about replacing the seals....., have considered that and may do that depending upon how fast I get the new hatches. This is the one area, though, as you all know where I hope to keep things completely dry. I'm a relatively new owner and have been following some of the glitchy issues of this boat, but I have to tell you that this site and everyone's combined experience makes new boat ownership so much more enjoyable.
 
I am doing exactly that, Matt, as part of an entirely too-long list of winter projects. I am putting a mini solar vent (Nicro 3" solar only) at the aft-most corner of the boat, port side, just under the rail.

We'll see if it helps anything......
 
Matt, I didn't have any mold issues--but there was no fiberglass bulkhead (as you can see in the above photo) between the cockpit in the earlier 25's where there was plenty of ventilation. with only a sunbrella cover.
 
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