leak in bow

T

Two Bears

New member
Home from the Sidney Gathering & doing the cleanup after a good trip.

Found about 1.5 gallons of salt water under and in front of the port-a-potty space. Where did it come from? If thru the anchor hatch it would be rain water, not salt water. The Bow Eye Bolt to the trailer winch that is also the anchor eye looks good. I pulled the anchor line out, and the bottom of the line was still dry... which makes sense since all my anchorings were in shallow (less than 20 feet) of water. Everything else in the bow of the boat is dry so I don't believe it could have come through the anchor locker.

Looking at the bow of the boat from around the front on the outside the only screws or holes are the armor strip on the bow that runs back on the "V" part of the bow.

any ideas out there?

Chuck
 
There have been quite a few leaks from the screws from the brass bow strip. What is usually done is that the entire strip is removed, all of the screw holes are filled, with epoxy, then the pilot holes re-drilled to be sure they are not thru the laminate. Bed the strip back in place. There are a few other more remote possibilities, but the brass strip is usually where the issue is.
 
If the water is still in the bow and the boat is on the trailer lower the tongue jack so the boat sits bow down and start removing the brass strip screws from the lowest onward and the water will drip/flow from the offending hole. Don't ask how I know this trick.
 
I agree that it's most likely the bow strip. I read through various archives here before I went over my boat (which had not leaked but I wanted to make sure it wouldn't), and the two most oft-mentioned things were the anchor locker and the bow strip.

I think the anchor locker could leak salty water if you hauled in a salty, wet rode (oftentimes the drain is too high and so water might pool in the locker), but it seems less likely to do so in volume --unless water can get in the clamshell when you are underway.

I removed each screw from the bow strip - but not the strip itself - and made an exploratory poke with a thin wire, to see if any of the holes went through. On mine, none went through (that I could tell), but here is what I did anyway:

1) I ordered some slightly shorter screws from McMaster-Carr. If memory serves, they were 3/8" long x #8. I actually ordered 1/2" too, just in case (I think that was the original length). I changed from flat head to oval head while I was at it (just because flat head screws without bungs bug me; no real functional reason).

2) I cleaned out/solvent washed the holes of any old caulking or dirt, and the new screws (solvent) and taped around the area.

3) I wrapped the area just under the screw heads with butyl (my chosen bedding compound).

4) I used a pipe cleaner to "paint" the holes with neat epoxy (this was so #5 would bond) and let it start to kick (so it would be tacky/grippy).

5) I used a syringe and injected each hole with some WEST 610 thickened epoxy. I didn't fill the holes, but just put a small amount at the "bottom" of each one.

6) While the epoxy was soft, I inserted the new screws and tightened them down (they all gripped just fine). Then cleaned up any bedding or epoxy splooge.

My reasoning was that since the shorter screws all gripped just fine (I tested them all "dry"), that this way I would have a plug of thickened epoxy at the bottom of each hole, just in case any had almost gone through or there were any tiny holes or cracks through that I had not been able to detect. Time will tell, but I feel good about how it went.

Other thoughts:

1) I may at some point install a Keel Shield (rubber type strip) on the stem. If so I may remove the brass strip (not sure yet).

2) If the area under the V-berth is accessible on your boat, then you might consider laying some strips of fiberglass tape along the inside of the bow where the keel strip lies. This would repair any holes and give more depth for screws.

On the anchor locker: From what I understand the issue is where/how the bottom of that locker is tabbed to the hull. If there is a gap in the tabbing (not at all uncommon) and it happens to be where the hole for the drain passes through, well then you have a pathway for water to drain down. Likewise if there were any other flaws in the tabbing (say, especially along the after/bottom edge line where water may sit if the drain is too high [mine was before I changed it]), there could be leakage there as well.

Sunbeam
 
Usually with the rub rail you will see water or salt streaks inside of the hull. The rivets which hold the rub rail should have some sealant over them--hopefully epoxy, but it might be the infamous Bostic. It is possible to have water coming in from higher than where you can put the water level as you lower the trailer--although that is a good way to start.
 
My vote is for an anchor locker drain that is not properly sealed (salt water leaks in between the outer hull and the locker as boat travels through the water).
 
Chuck, Hope the fix for this is easy for you.

Glad to hear you made it back OK. It was really nice to get to meet you and Penny. Hope we can do it again sometime,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Chuck, Hope the fix for this is easy for you.

Glad to hear you made it back OK. It was really nice to get to meet you and Penny. Hope we can do it again sometime,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
My leak is from the anchor locker which was not properly sealed. I was able to confirm this by taking the anchor and rode out and pouring a few ounces of water into the bottom of the locker and watch the dribbles come down. I was often ending up with a cup or so of water in that area in front of the porta potti storage area. I tried using a Rustoleum leak sealer, but have not quite got it licked yet!
 
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