King Trailer owners - check your disc brakes

Sneaks-

At least they gave you a candid, realistic estimate!

It's only money, anyway!

Might be worth it next time you start down that twisty, switchback 2-lane road in the snow storm (BTDT!!!) :huh: :huh: :huh:

Joe :lol:
 
You are looking at a "ROUGH" price of $2200.00 to convert and set up.
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OK. Thank you very much. I'll let you know if I am interested. But now that I think about it, the brakes that came with my trailer aren't so bad.
 
TyBoo":3mrfm2vw said:
You are looking at a "ROUGH" price of $2200.00 to convert and set up.
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OK. Thank you very much. I'll let you know if I am interested. But now that I think about it, the brakes that came with my trailer aren't so bad.
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Damn scary that a Dodge and a Chevy owner can think alike sometimes!

Don
 
I wonder if the Pacific quote included installing a controler? Since they state a 7 pin connection must be present and working properly. Many rigs have a 7 pin connector, (which is standard these days on the heavier trucks)--but don't all have a brake controller. I agree that the price seems a bit steep. I figure about $1000 doing it myself. (However I am going to keep the surge brake setup so I can convert back if there is a problem). I tend to use minimal brakes doing down grades--but the currrent TV is a diesel without a retarder or Jake brake.
 
Tom - You may have saved me some $$$$. I checked my disc pads today. I have hardly any miles on my trailer and the inside pads are down to ... and the outside ....

I also put anti seize on the lugs even though they were NOT knuckle busters coming off.

I have two questions - 1.) At what pad width should you replace 1/4 or 1/8?

Who is the best supplier? (Champion?)

I doubt I have more than a 1000 miles on my trailer.
 
C-Sick":22dv5pbv said:
I have two questions - 1.) At what pad width should you replace 1/4 or 1/8?

Who is the best supplier? (Champion?)
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Stamped right on the new caliper I have it says minimum pad thickness is 3/32". You should probably use 1/8" as your guide because they wear so fast. The new pad thickness is ~5/16"

I don't know if Champion is the best supplier, but they are very good. So good that if you found one a couple bucks cheaper I would probably stick with Champion. The only hassle is they do not yet have online ordering. But the lady who answers the phone is real nice, and she even took it upon herself to go look at one of the calipers I was ordering to make sure it had the fittings and pads while I was still on the phone.
 
Gotta love the site and the immediate response. The King Trailer site I did not find helpful nor the liturature that I got when I bought my trailer. This could get expensive if I have to change em out every 1000 miles.

I am sure going to keep better track of the mileage.

Are the 4 bolts to remove the calipers?
 
Are the 4 bolts to remove the calipers?
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Three bolts hold the adapter plate and spacer to the axle casting. Remove them, then the caliper slides off the two pegs on the plate. At least that's the way mine were yesterday. The bolts are fine thread and in a knuckle-busting spot. A ratcheting 9/16" boxend wrench is a good thing to have.

If your pads are worn out at 1000 miles, then you should only drive uphill from now on. Or go 3000 and you can replace the calipers too. The good thing about not checking them so often is when the rotors get scored they cool better.
 
Oh - and looking at the new caliper which is now on my desk, the four bolts you were probably referring to hold the two parts of the caliper together. You will have to remove them to get to the screws in the fixed pad. No problems though - the pistons and the fluid are completely in the other half.

The new pad sets from Champion come with new screws. I ordered a spare set so I am more apt to check and catch them before too late.
 
Mike - I plan on the same plan. Order an extra set and check often. On visual inspection the pads looked rather brittle. I wonder if they make another product for the pad that holds up any better.

My rotors were also far more scored than would be the case on a car.

At some point one has to do the math and figure out the point of diminishing returns. Maybe dollars ahead to up grade to the vented rotors.

I'd like to know how much R&R went into the development of this style. I was feeling so cocky about having disc brakes and a dual axle trailier. Now I am eating those words.
 
Puncturing the residual or relief valve on a drum brake actuator so it will accomodate disc brakes is not the best way to go. TieDown for example, as well as Titan, recommends removing the valve completely. TieDown is emphatic in telling you to remove the valve rather than puncturing the valve. It's not a difficult job taking the valve out, but it will cut into your spare time. More the reason to do it before the fishng gets serious. In short, removing the valve is foolproof, puncturing the the valve is not.

I strongly suspect that some of the high heat, fast and uneven wear on pads, are directly related to the above.
 
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