Kicker question.

N

nomadcruiser53

New member
Ok... so, I think I'm of a mind to go with a single engine when I get a 22 C-Dory. I just like the idea of one prop, less steering gear. and better fuel economy. My next question is how big a kicker to use? I was thinking a 15 or 20 hp would get a fella to shore if the main quit. Is that too big for a kicker? Thanks.
 
Originally I bought a 15hp 4-stroke, but thought it was overkill (and too heavy). I sold it and installed a 6hp 4-stroke which will do the job if/when I need it. (And it's a LOT easier to lift on and off!)

Casey
C-Dory Naknek
 
Hi,

I have a brand new 22 cruiser and I got the Honda VTEC 90 and a High Thrust 9.9. It seems like a good combination, but it's a snug fit around the 9.9 and all the hoses. I have them linked for steering and we used a Honda twin throttle quadrant so I can run the kicker (with power tilt and electric start) from the helm. I don't think I could steer the kicker with the main raised. Things would crunch together back there. Probably having the main down for the rudder effect is better anyway.

I haven't tested the 9.9 in big seas or wind, but it seems like it will easily push hull speed of around 6 knots. It does 5 knot harbor cruising speed on much less than full throttle. This is the geared-down engine with a 10 x 6.5 prop.

Also, the 90 will pop the boat up on plane nicely without using the trim tabs. That's with the stock 13.5 x 15 prop and a pretty empty new boat. Perhaps I should try a 17 pitch and see what happens, then keep one or the other for a spare. Not that anything could ever possibly happen to a prop......

Jeff Lastofka
 
You wouldn't have too much room to for a larger kicker. Not to mention that you reach a point in HP where if the motor can't get the hull on plane then you don't get any more benefit than a smaller kicker. I have the Honda 90 and the 8hp classic and it does just fine. It's not hooked up the the main for steering. Instead I dropped another 2k for a TR-1 autopilot for the trolling motor and it's an awesome combination. Not cheap though. I will say that you wouldn't want to manually steer a kicker on a c-dory, it just sits too far back. IMO there's no comfortable way to fish/sit and manually steer the kicker.
 
I was going to opt for a 9.9 when Mark Toland pointed out that it was simply a detuned 15 with no weight savings. So I went for the 15 and she trolls great and will push Adeline to 6.7 on the gps. However, if I could do it over I'd go for the 8. Lighter, cheaper, and probably still good for the 6.7.
 
I just tried to hang my 8hp-4s yamaha on my new 19' angler with the 75hp-4s yamaha main and it's a no go. It won't clear the trim tab and I don't think they will clear each other. Looks like I'll need a mount of some type.
 
Hi,

The Honda 9.9 High Thrust with power tilt bolts directly to the CD 22 transom and clears the trim tabs easily. No adapters.

At one particular RPM setting of the kicker, I get a high pitched singing oscillation which we've pretty much concluded is a resonance in the trim tab plates (or some other mysterious, undiscovered object(s)). I can sometimes hear just a hint of the same sound at a particular setting on the main engine, too, but it's MUCH fainter. If I tilt the kicker up, farther away from the trim tab, it reduces the sound.

Jeff
 
Glen,

Just read your post RE a bracket of some sort for the kicker on your CD19.

Something like this might work:
http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=23 .
It's called a "Mini Jacker" and I've seem them on several C-Dory's.

I purchased one from Les Lampman (EQ Marine, Coronet Bay, WA) expecting I'd use it when I mounted the Suzuki 6 on my CD22. As it turns out I didn't need it! (So the bracket, unused, it sitting in my shop.)

I was able to JUST BARELY squeeze the Suzuki 6 in on the left side the Suzuki 90. The kicker and port trimtab touched, but by raising the kicker to it's first "up" position, it cleared ok. My rationale was that if/when I need the kicker, running it in the slightly trimmed position wouldn't hurt anything. It seems to be fine. Give it a try. Being able to hand the kicker on the directly on the transom makes things a bit cleaner, and by jockeying around the transom position and trim position, you still might be able to get away with it.

If, after all that, you still want a bracket - contact me, I have one sitting on the shelf!

Regards,
Casey
C-Dory Naknek
Lake Montezuma, AZ
 
Glen-

Tyboo Mike designed and built his own bracket that looks like this:

Outboard_Bracket.jpg

Here's the drawing of the sheet metal project:

Outboard_Bracket_Layout.jpg

It's a simple project if you can get access to sheet metal equipment or can get a local metal or heating and air conditioning shop to build it for you for a reasonable fee. Out of stainless, of course!

(These images came from the Outboards and Systems part of the Library Forum.

Joe. :teeth
 
It all depends on what you are needing a kicker for. Just to get to shore if your main engine quits a 10 hp is just fine.

I need something more. My 15 hp kicker is mounted on a separate bracket, is electric start (mostly for generator capacity), steered thru the main engine with an EZ-Steer set-up, controled with it's own throttle/gear change set-up.
I have pulled my 600' anchor line in 150' of water against the tide with the kicker. Slow but it did it. It also has the power to troll in windy conditions. A small kicker may not do that.

Don't skimp on the motor size. Some lakes limit motors to less than 10 hp so that is why there are 9.9 hp motors. They are usually a detuned version of a 15 hp so therefore the same physical size/weight.

Good luck with your choice.

Jack
 
I have a 22' classic. I went still have my original 15hp johnson kicker. Same size and weight as the 9.9, a little more money and a lot more thrust. When the seas kick up, you won't regret that extra muscle.
 
I guess I'm a bit late posting.
Check my photos and you'll see an album on adding my kicker.
I relocated the swim step and used an adjustable bracket to clear
the trim tab.

Phil
 
Back
Top