Kicker motor and transom savers

K

Kingmann

New member
I am shopping for a kicker motor, 8-9 HP, for my 22' c-dory and wonder whether or not I need a long shaft and if I should use a bracket or simple attach to the transom.

Also I am shopping for a "transom saver" to stabilize the 90 HP Honda while I am towing from Vermont to Washington State. Some attach to the trailer while other do not. Any input on this? Thank you in advance.
 
Depends on how the motor is transported, tilted up or in normal position. In normal position I would not worry about it. The forces on the motor/transom in normal operation are way more than any it would experience when towing. My Honda BF90D mount has two trim rams and one tilt ram.

If the motor is tilted up, but still on the trim rams, I wouldn't worry about it (see above).

If the motor is tilted up off the trim rams, then you might want to do something. The tilt ram is not meant to carry as much force as the trim rams.

In my case I tilt the motor up because the clearance of the engine skeg to the ground is only a couple of inches when the motor is in the normal position. I tilt the motor up and put a piece of 2x3" in between the moving parts of the mount at the top of the transom. Then I lower the tilt until the wood is trapped in the mechanism. Works great.

A couple of things to think about with a transom saver. If the saver is attached to the trailer frame (then to the engine) you will be transferring any road shocks more directly to the engine. If the boat shifts or bounces on the trailer, the transom saver could interfere with the free movement of the engine as the boat shifts.

Some motor mounts (usually for smaller engines) are designed to let the motor tilt up if the motor hits something when the boat is moving forward. If the motor is restrained and you hit something the motor may not be able to move and might sustain more damage (granted this is not that likely when towing, but it depends on how low the motor sits).
 
Well, I have a Honda 150 and I tow with the motor railed for obvious reasons, so that it doesn't hit the ground over a curb or bump. When it's raised, the hydraulics take the bouncing, which worried me for years.

I finally invested in a m-y wedge. This is nothing more than a rubber rod with a hole in the lower half which slips over one of the outer rods. You then lower the motor until the rubber compresses and then you're set.

I also bought the rubber blocks that keep the motor from falling on either side.

Boris
 
After thinking it over I chose a Tohatsu 6 hp 4-stroke. I avoid bad weather like the plague and so it's very unlikely I will ever need the kicker against heavy winds. The 6hp should push the boat at hull speed if necessary. I got the short shaft and plan to use it with a Garelick swinging mount, but later found that I could have bought the long shaft and used a Mini-Jacker which a number of others have used -- the issue is that the Mini-Jacker actually raises the motor about 3" so the long shaft is then required. In any case it's necessary to carefully mount a bracket so the kicker doesn't interfere with free motion of the main engine and also doesn't strike any trim tabs when the kicker is in the down position. In my case these clearances were very close! My installation is nearly finished and we'll soon see how well it works.
 
JMO...
Tohatsu is a good motor for the money. We have a 9.8 and that thing is rock solid.

For towing I use this on the main. Works great, is simple and removes all the weight/torque from the factory tilt mount/hydraulic rams. Would not two without it, especially long distances.
http://www.m-ywedge.com/products.html

Personally, I don't like the kicker mounts that go up/down. They bounce a lot and that has to put untold forces on the transom. We used a mini-jacker. It works and clears the trim tabs, barely. Had I to do it again, I'd have one made to move the engine back 2" more, but it works.
 
I have used all 3 methods of supporting the motor raised up--I also turn the motor all of the way to one side to avoid putting strain on the hydraulics, as it turns it puts a lot of pressure on the seals in the helm pump.

I have the "Transom savor" on my Caracal Cat (140 Suzuki)--it is sloppy enough with mounting it would not put any force on the lower unit when going down the road. The boat should be really tightly strapped to the trailer, with a yellow strap/ratchet device so that there is no issue. The transom saver also does have a spring on the inside to take up a little of the shock--

I use the wedge under the ram except when very hot--I found it gets soft and so I carry a closet rod about 15" long to put in as Ssobol does.

I use a smaller kicker than most--my dinghy motor of 3.5 hp 2 stroke Merc. A 6 hp should be plenty for the 22. Best if you have a large prop--and "big foot" gearing. Spinning a small prop is a bit of over kill--but some want the electric start, the trim and tilt, and the alternator with comes with the larger motors. None of the C Dory require anything larger than a 9.9 hp.

Mount your preference. The objections are valid for the articulating props--but I don't leave my motor on it when on the road--and support it with the Davit or lines. With the short shaft, the drop down type is better. If you are using just as a kicker--get the long shaft.
 
Back
Top