Necessity of Having Auxilliary Power
Even though our main engines are more reliable today over the past, they do occasionally fail. It could be a broken or loose wire in a wiring harness, failure of a computer circuit, failure of a battery, thermostat, water pump -- just about anything. Your mechanic could have screwed up. You could pick up bad fuel, which could really ruin your day. You could hit a submerged rock or other object. You could accidentally wander into an area where you could no longer use your main engine.
So if one subscribes to Murphy's Law, which I do, one could encounter an engine failure at the worst possible time and at the worst possible place. Yet we hear a chorus of salespeople who say that engines are so reliable that one does not need an auxiliary. That's utter nonsense. An auxiliary is a safety device. Why do boating regulations mandate that we have life preservers, flares and fire extinguishers on our boats when the vast majority of us will never need these life saving devices? The answer is that Murphy's Law happens all the time to somebody, and an auxiliary motor is another safety device that is needed if Murphy hits you.
Don't assume that if you encounter an engine failure that you will be able to diagnose and and fix the problem on the water; you may, but if Murphy's Law hits, you may not be that lucky, no matter how handy you are.
This is an area where I have had a great deal of first hand experience in the course of five years:
1) My first boat had a new engine which sustained 5 failures due to a wiring harness issue that went undiagnosed. I got a kicker after the first failure, and it got me home every time. (Incidentally, two of those failures happened at dangerous locations.)
2) Once the wiring harness was fixed, I traveled into two gunkholes with only a few inches of water under the hull. It was too shallow to operate the main engine, but the kicker got us out.
3) A short while later, I was in my brother-in-law's 26' Seaswirl. It had a diesel I/o with counter rotating props. His engine failed as he rounded a narrow rocky corner of the channel. The failure was caused by a faulty computer that ignored console input. It's not like the old days that when you go from neutral to reverse, there was a direct linkage from the engine level to the engine. His boat was a "fly by wire" design, and he had no kicker.
4) I recently (July, 2013) ran over rocks , which took out by lower unit. Yeah, it was boneheaded, but guess what? -- I lowered my auxiliary motor into the water, and we traveled twenty miles back home in a little less then 3 hours.
On Using the Auxiliary Motor
While underway with the kicker, I found that with our 22 foot boat, the main engine works excellently as a rudder such that I don't need any linkage rod. I just lash the kicker in place, set power to full, and proceed along at hull speed. The autopilot works, too, on the main engine to control the rudder movements. On our Marinaut, the splashwell makes a convenient and comfortable spot in which to sit and operate the kicker like one would operate a dinghy motor. I operate the kicker at the stern when precise maneurvering is required.
As for using a kicker to save the main engine -- 5 to 6 mph is slow, but if you are going to do that, I would get a minimum 8 HP kicker, and approximately 10 HP is preferred. If one's boat is 4,500 pounds, one would need 9 HP to run the boat at hull speed. I know there are many factors involved in making a truly precise calculation, which is why I use that simple rule of thumb: one HP for every 500 pounds of weight. A smaller motor will work, but if you need it in an emergency, Murphy's Law has a good chance to cause you to have a need to travel against a current or strong headwind. In that case, it is best to have an appropriately sized auxiliary.
Rich
Even though our main engines are more reliable today over the past, they do occasionally fail. It could be a broken or loose wire in a wiring harness, failure of a computer circuit, failure of a battery, thermostat, water pump -- just about anything. Your mechanic could have screwed up. You could pick up bad fuel, which could really ruin your day. You could hit a submerged rock or other object. You could accidentally wander into an area where you could no longer use your main engine.
So if one subscribes to Murphy's Law, which I do, one could encounter an engine failure at the worst possible time and at the worst possible place. Yet we hear a chorus of salespeople who say that engines are so reliable that one does not need an auxiliary. That's utter nonsense. An auxiliary is a safety device. Why do boating regulations mandate that we have life preservers, flares and fire extinguishers on our boats when the vast majority of us will never need these life saving devices? The answer is that Murphy's Law happens all the time to somebody, and an auxiliary motor is another safety device that is needed if Murphy hits you.
Don't assume that if you encounter an engine failure that you will be able to diagnose and and fix the problem on the water; you may, but if Murphy's Law hits, you may not be that lucky, no matter how handy you are.
This is an area where I have had a great deal of first hand experience in the course of five years:
1) My first boat had a new engine which sustained 5 failures due to a wiring harness issue that went undiagnosed. I got a kicker after the first failure, and it got me home every time. (Incidentally, two of those failures happened at dangerous locations.)
2) Once the wiring harness was fixed, I traveled into two gunkholes with only a few inches of water under the hull. It was too shallow to operate the main engine, but the kicker got us out.
3) A short while later, I was in my brother-in-law's 26' Seaswirl. It had a diesel I/o with counter rotating props. His engine failed as he rounded a narrow rocky corner of the channel. The failure was caused by a faulty computer that ignored console input. It's not like the old days that when you go from neutral to reverse, there was a direct linkage from the engine level to the engine. His boat was a "fly by wire" design, and he had no kicker.
4) I recently (July, 2013) ran over rocks , which took out by lower unit. Yeah, it was boneheaded, but guess what? -- I lowered my auxiliary motor into the water, and we traveled twenty miles back home in a little less then 3 hours.
On Using the Auxiliary Motor
While underway with the kicker, I found that with our 22 foot boat, the main engine works excellently as a rudder such that I don't need any linkage rod. I just lash the kicker in place, set power to full, and proceed along at hull speed. The autopilot works, too, on the main engine to control the rudder movements. On our Marinaut, the splashwell makes a convenient and comfortable spot in which to sit and operate the kicker like one would operate a dinghy motor. I operate the kicker at the stern when precise maneurvering is required.
As for using a kicker to save the main engine -- 5 to 6 mph is slow, but if you are going to do that, I would get a minimum 8 HP kicker, and approximately 10 HP is preferred. If one's boat is 4,500 pounds, one would need 9 HP to run the boat at hull speed. I know there are many factors involved in making a truly precise calculation, which is why I use that simple rule of thumb: one HP for every 500 pounds of weight. A smaller motor will work, but if you need it in an emergency, Murphy's Law has a good chance to cause you to have a need to travel against a current or strong headwind. In that case, it is best to have an appropriately sized auxiliary.
Rich