Johnson (Suzuki) 90: Another midsection corrosion failure

Hi Steve, based on what I hear the seconds bolt you talk about is not a problem and does not have to be replaced. I was trying to see where I read that, but can’t seem to find it. Maybe I should have taken the seconds one out, just to see?

If you hear different let me know as I will also replace that bolt. I bought two at the time just in case.
 
I bought the aluminium replacement bolt but have not been able to remove the original bolt. The bolt has been painted over at the factory and I have concerned about putting too much force on the allen wrench. I don't want to break something trying to avoid a problem. How have others removed this bolt?
 
Mine was also painted over and I had to use a breaker bar that attached to the allen wrench to break it loose. Most likely, like mine, the bolt has already started to rust on the thread lines and that is what is causing the problem of getting it out. I know other people that have had to drill it out and then deal with not messing up the treads.

No real good options here. If you don't do it, you are going to need a lower engine bracket and the cost to install. Mabe you take/talk to the suzuki guys have have them remove and or replace it. They may have some other tricks to get it out.

Sorry Jim
 
SeaSpray":gwl0vnn2 said:
I bought the aluminium replacement bolt but have not been able to remove the original bolt. The bolt has been painted over at the factory and I have concerned about putting too much force on the allen wrench. I don't want to break something trying to avoid a problem. How have others removed this bolt?
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Heat it up with a torch and it probably comes right out. Be careful though; it is only aluminum it is bedded in.
 
Heat-cold cycles can't hurt.
What is thieves use to break locks? Compressed keyboard or electronics cleaner? Gets very cold.
Isolate the heat-cold to the bolt.
Kroil is highly rated as is Liquid Wrench. PB Blaster is OK. A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works better than any of the commercial products.
An impact driver is cheap and effective.
Or as a buddy used to say "Don't force it, get a bigger mechanic."
 
Well tax season is over and I have some time now. I tried again to remove the bolt. This time I used some heat but ended up rounding out the allen part of the bolt. I also used a knife to break the seal of the paint around the bolt. It did not budge.

Not sure what to do next. Take more extreme measures or just leave it and see what happens.

Steve
 
Lord, this thread gives me the heebie-jeebies. I can't even get a lug nut off. Keeping fingers crossed no similar issues exist with a Honda BF150! If so, I will just shell out the $$$ to Pete at West Coast Marine, because there is not a chance in HELL I will be tackling any of this stuff!
 
when I read the thread I hoped I would never be a part of it.........no such luck.

Here is the report back from the shop-

REMOVED THE ENGINE PORT SIDE COVER AND INSPECTED. FOUND THAT THE OIL PAN IS CORRODED THROUGH ALLOWING EXHAUST TO ENTER THE ENGINE COVER WHICH IS CAUSING THE ENGINE TO CHOKE OUT AT LOW SPEEDS. LOOKED UP ALL PARTS THAT WE THINK MAY BE NEEDED TO REPAIR THIS CUSTOMER'S ENGINE. WE WILL NOT BE ABLE TO CONFIRM UNTIL THE ENGINE IS ACTUALLY TORN DOWN. ENGINE COMPRESSION GOOD AT 233/235/228/230 (GOOD) UNIT HAS 536 HOURS AND 34 MINS OF RUN.

CUSTOMER NEED APPROX. 4000.00 TO REPAIR THIS ENGINE.

The engine is a 2005 Suzuki, low hours, always maintained (by a shop not me) and stored in Twin Bridges dry storage since it was new.

I'm no mechanic but I had it in the TB shop (not a Suzuki shop) for a tune up and when I got it back the oil level was high....couldn't even see the top on the stick. The shop re-checked their work and they had added two extra quarts of oil. They drained it out and said it shouldn't cause a problem. Could this have anything to do with what is now being found in a Suzuki shop? Looking at the pictures of the corrosion I would doubt it but it seems like they should have caught what is now being found by the Suzuki shop. Maybe I should ask fro my money back from them at least.

Comments would be very appreciated, maybe a crying towel.

thanks
 
I would not think the high oil level has anything to do with this. The corrosion is a known Suzuki problem that the company has refused to honor under warrantee. It has to do with dissimilar medals and the steel bolt plug they put in instead of an aluminum one.
Sorry Jim
 
I know Suzuki/Johnson will only do the right thing if a lot of pressure is put on them, like BOAT U.S. is doing with Yamaha.
There may be a settlement in the future, so save those pictures!
Roger
 
I have the harborfreight impact driver and tried that the first time with no luck.
I am thinking the only way may be to drill it out. I have concerns of getting the drilling material inside the passage. Not sure what problems that might cause.

I was also thinking of cutting flats on the top and bottom of the bolt and trying to use a clamping crescent wrench.

What I want to do is just forget about and use the boat. I don't see any problems from the outside but who knows what is going on inside.

Steve
 
Yep. I hear ya. You could worry yourself to death with "what if". PIA getting rusted stuff apart; always has been. Always will be. I started using anti-seize on just about everything I screw together, even lug nuts.
 
Resurrecting this thread because...the JB Weld patch finally fell off! The boat is now at Jacobsen's to have the entire oil pan casting replaced. Can't remember if I mentioned this, but I sourced a used (freshwater-only) oil pan off eBay for about half the cost of a new one. Cleaned it up, and it's almost like new. We'll see...
 
I thought about trying to replace it myself. It's just bolts, after all. Well, it's bolts, plus supporting the engine while it's disassembled from the pivot, and not accidentally dropping the entire thing onto my driveway and having it break into a million pieces. So yeah...Jacobsen's can do it for me. :-)
 
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