Intuition to Alaska - 2021

[LesR]

Monday, August 30, 2021
Lowe Inlet to Swanson Bay

Miles today: 65
Total Miles: 2667

We left our anchorage at 7:00, shortly after sunrise. There were two bears at the falls as we prepared to leave. As we entered Wright Sound just south of Hartley Bay, we noticed huge fogbank the width of Douglas Channel, despite it being otherwise clear and sunny this morning.



As I commented about not wanting to have to go through that, I saw a whale breach close to the bank and just east of Cape Farewell. Several whales breached, some entirely clear of the water. Another was tail slapping as the others breached. We just watched from a mile away, enjoying the show rather than trying to get closer for photos. Several other whales appeared as we transited Wright Sound and McKay Reach.

Clouds and showers closed in as we headed south in Fraser Reach and pulled into Swanson Bay about 3:30. The bay is not long or far removed from the main channel, but offers protection from the forecast northwest winds. I was unable to get the anchor to set in the northwest corner of the bay, so we moved to a point south of the old pulp mill ruins. We’re anchored in 45 feet of water, with a little more room to swing.



I commented that the bay is a nice place unless someone big comes along through the nearby channel. Not more than an hour later, the Northern Expedition chugged up Fraser Reach and passed little more than a half mile away. :shock:



She was 3.5 miles away by the time her wake hit us. The wake turned out to be not bad, unlike the steep 3- to 4-foot rollers we experienced in the narrow Grenville Channel from one of her sister ships.

 

[LesR]

Tuesday, August 31, 2021
Swanson Bay to Shearwater

Miles today: 79
Total Miles: 2746

Low clouds greeted us this morning, but it remained dry. We headed out of Swanson Bay at 7:15 and into a choppy Fraser Reach. The good news – this was the worst sea state we’d see all day. I planned a little different route to Shearwater than we had taken on our way north to both allow for better protection and to see some new scenery. After breakfast we ran on plane to make time on this longer mileage day.

We turned into Hiekish Narrows, which leads to a point farther north in Finlayson Channel than we’d previously been. After traveling south to a point abeam Klemtu, we turned east into Jackson Passage. Jackson Passage includes Jackson Narrows at its eastern end where it meets Mathieson Channel. This was a pretty passage and worth the trip. There are a couple inviting anchorage areas at the eastern end.

Jackson Narrows


The sun finally broke through as we headed south through Mathieson Channel, a very pretty passage with very little debris in the water. At its south end we cut across to Percival Narrows, which gives a protected route to Seaforth Channel, allowing us to avoid Millbank South. We went slowly through Percival, which looks a little scary on the charts but has plenty of water (we never saw less than 27 feet on today’s 10-foot mid-tide. We passed through during the ebb, but today’s drop was only 2 feet, so no issues with currents.



Ivory Island Light from end of Percival Narrows


After turning into Seaforth Channel, we pushed the throttle up and ran across the big, wide swells for a few miles until their affects dissipated. The sky was clear when we passed Dryad Point and turned into the harbor at Shearwater Resort. There seems to be more happening at Shearwater than during our first visit in June. We enjoyed wandering the grounds and eating ice cream on a sunny afternoon. While not really busy, all the facilities are open. There are a few other cruisers docked here, along with 3 100+ foot mega-yachts.



We're watching the weather closely and hoping for a smooth crossing of Cape Caution and Queen Charlotte Sound in a couple days.

 

[LesR]

Tuesday, August 31, 2021
Swanson Bay to Shearwater

Miles today: 79
Total Miles: 2746

Low clouds greeted us this morning, but it remained dry. We headed out of Swanson Bay at 7:15 and into a choppy Fraser Reach. The good news – this was the worst sea state we’d see all day. I planned a little different route to Shearwater than we had taken on our way north to both allow for better protection and to see some new scenery. After breakfast we ran on plane to make time on this longer mileage day.

We turned into Hiekish Narrows, which leads to a point farther north in Finlayson Channel than we’d previously been. After traveling south to a point abeam Klemtu, we turned east into Jackson Passage. Jackson Passage includes Jackson Narrows at its eastern end where it meets Mathieson Channel. This was a pretty passage and worth the trip. There are a couple inviting anchorage areas at the eastern end.

Jackson Narrows


The sun finally broke through as we headed south through Mathieson Channel, a very pretty passage with very little debris in the water. At its south end we cut across to Percival Narrows, which gives a protected route to Seaforth Channel, allowing us to avoid Millbank South. We went slowly through Percival, which looks a little scary on the charts but has plenty of water (we never saw less than 27 feet on today’s 10-foot mid-tide. We passed through during the ebb, but today’s drop was only 2 feet, so no issues with currents.



Ivory Island Light from end of Percival Narrows


After turning into Seaforth Channel, we pushed the throttle up and ran across the big, wide swells for a few miles until their affects dissipated. The sky was clear when we passed Dryad Point and turned into the harbor at Shearwater Resort. There seems to be more happening at Shearwater than during our first visit in June. We enjoyed wandering the grounds and eating ice cream on a sunny afternoon. While not really busy, all the facilities are open. There are a few other cruisers docked here, along with 3 100+ foot mega-yachts.



We're watching the weather closely and hoping for a smooth crossing of Cape Caution and Queen Charlotte Sound in a couple days.

 

[LesR]

Wednesday, September 1, 2021
Shearwater to Millbrook Cove

Miles today: 72
Total Miles: 2818

Sunset in Shearwater


Today’s leg made me a little nervous, as it assumes very good and settled weather through at least mid-day. Millbrook Cove, our planned anchorage is located very close to Cape Caution. The advantage is that it shortens the crossing of Queen Charlotte Strait as much as possible; the disadvantage is that the arrival route is nearly as exposed as Cape Caution itself. I had marked Fury Cove, a little farther north off of Fitz Hugh Sound, as an alternate destination in the event we couldn’t comfortably get to Millbrook Cove.

Almost There fired up her thrusters and pushed away from the dock as we were preparing to leave this morning. We backed away shortly thereafter and were headed toward Lama passage by 7:00 am. Kel finished posting updates and photos as we passed Bella Bella and still had cell coverage.

Almost There and Intuition


Pointer Island turning from Lama Passage to Fisher Channel


We ran on plane most of the day, with the sea state in Fisher Channel and Fitz Hugh Sound varying from smooth to choppy, but never enough to make the ride uncomfortable. I saw a whale breach from a couple miles away as we neared Fog Rock. By the time we got close, they were done with the theatrics, but we got some good photos before they dove and continued north.





It was so calm today that we even discussed whether it made sense to keep going and cross Queen Charlotte Strait this afternoon. As we neared Cape Calvert, where you’re more exposed to the open ocean, we got our answer with the rising swells. We were able to stay on plan all the way to Smith Sound and the entrance to Millbrook Cove, but the big (and in some cases beamy) swells made it clear I didn’t want to push through another 30 miles in these conditions.

Cape Calvert... and beyond


We meandered our way among the rocks and around the island that protect Millbrook Cove and anchored in 30 feet on an 8-foot tide. The inner section of Millbrook Cove is protected on all sides from any wave action in Smith Sound. This is part of the low, rocky coastline, so there aren’t high hills to protect from extreme winds, but it seems about as secure a spot as possible this close to Cape Caution.

Millbrook Cove Shoreline

 

[LesR]

Thursday, September 2, 2021
Millbrook Cove to Port McNeill

Miles today: 65
Total Miles: 2883

Millbrook Cove was amazingly quiet, and we were the only ones there last night. There was just a slight breeze in the anchorage when we awoke to check the weather. It sounds as if winds in Queen Charlotte Strait will shift around to the southeast and build over the next day, but this morning should remain light. Reports from Egg Island and Pine Island indicated waves of half-meter or less, so today looks like our best opportunity to cross for the next 2-3 days.

Smith Sound was fairly calm as we exited the cove and pointed southwest toward Cape Caution. The waves and chop built as we continued around Cape Caution and pointed southeast into the strait. We were able to stay on plane and make good time, but the chop on top of the low swells made for busy driving. We had no more than two miles of visibility for most of the trip around the cape. At several points we could barely see the land a mile off our port side.

My route for the southbound crossing was different from our crossing in June. We stayed close to the mainland coastline after passing Cape Caution, as opposed to heading directly south toward the God’s Pocket area off the north end of Vancouver Island. Less confident about the weather this time, I wanted to stay within a shorter distance of protected harbors and wait until we were deeper into Queen Charlotte Strait before crossing. We met the northbound Alaska State Ferry Matanuska in the narrow Millar Passage. We hugged the Millar Islands side of the passage as she passed.

We saw a whale ahead at the east end of the Millar Islands. We watched him sound, then I switched my attention to avoiding rocks/preparing for the ferry’s wake/cross-checking radar and AIS when Kel exclaimed, “There’s a whale right next to you!” I looked to my right as a second whale that we hadn’t noticed sounded within about 25 yards of us. Sorry, no photos of that one.



The sea state calmed considerably as we tuned a few degrees to starboard and pointed toward Port McNeill. The chop increased a little in the middle of the strait, but not enough to slow us down from our 15-mph pace. Arriving in Port McNeill shortly before noon, we filled up with gas and walked to the grocery to stock up for the next several days. After our gloomy morning, Port McNeill was sunny and clear this afternoon.



Not sure exactly what route we’ll take for the next several days. There’s another blow coming tomorrow and Saturday that will bring strong winds to Queen Charlotte Strait and the Broughtons. We’ll head at least part way up Johnstone Strait before angling north and exploring between here and Desolation Sound.

 

[LesR]

Friday, September 3, 2021
Port McNeill to Growler Cove

Miles today: 22
Total Miles: 2905

What do they say about Red Sky at morning?


We were planning to make at least Port Neville or get beyond Greene Point Rapids if the weather held. There are gale warnings up for strong southeast winds with a front due to arrive tonight. My hope was that we’d have a morning of light winds in Johnstone Strait, so that we could make some time and be in a protected location in advance of the highest winds tomorrow. Unfortunately, the southeast winds had already begun by the time we pulled out of Port McNeill at 7:30 am. With the eastbound flood tide just beginning, the southeast winds created a messy chop.

Sloppy Johnstone Strait


As the morning continued, so did the opposing winds, and the waves in Johnstone Strait continued to build. Not wanting to continue for four or more hours in those conditions, we pulled off the strait into Growler Cove. The opening of the cove faces west, so we anchored in 25 feet near the head of the cove for best relief from the very strong southeast winds expected tonight and tomorrow.

We had Growler Cove to ourselves all day, relaxing and catching up on a few items (and a nap) while the winds built on Johnstone Strait. It was breezy in the anchorage, but only enough wave action to gurgle against the hull. We may end up staying here tomorrow if the Gale Warning continues for Johnstone. If the wind lets up a little, we may try to make some progress once the ebb tide begins in the afternoon and we’re not dealing with strong winds opposing the tide.

Growler Cove looking into Johnstone Strait


Saturday, September 4
Growler Cove

Friday night was raucous with wind, rain, and noise from our front hatch rain cover rattling in the winds. Note to self – don’t put up the rain cover when strong winds are expected. The wind didn’t seem to abate during the day on Saturday, so we stayed put. Strong winds buffeted our anchorage, but with no fetch, at least we didn’t have any waves.

We thought about making a short run to Port Neville if the winds died a little in the afternoon, but didn’t feel that they lessened to any practical extent by late afternoon. The wind reports at Fanny Island in Johnstone Strait were pretty consistent throughout the day at 10-11 knots. I think this is a reduced reading, given that the weather station is on the west side of the island and is sheltered from strong easterlies.

A sailboat entered the cove later in the afternoon and became our only neighbor. The wind died about 7:00 pm and became calm as night fell.

 

[LesR]

Sunday, September 5, 2021
Growler Cove to Thurston Bay

Miles today: 64
Total Miles: 2969

Exiting Growler Cove


The water in Growler Cove was still when we awoke. Motoring toward the exit into Johnstone Strait, we could see thick fog except for the north side of the strait. As we turned eastward into the strait, we started scanning radar and AIS for any conflicts. I had about half a mile of visibility, with a clear view along the northern shore, so we continued at a slow cruise speed. A large fishing boat passed in the opposite direction, followed by the Alaska State Ferry Kennecott, both of which we saw only at their nearest point of less than half a mile. The Kennecott was the only vessel other than mine from which I heard a foghorn today.

Ghost Ship


Kennecott


The fog was patchy for the next several miles, and we entered a thick section that lasted 8 or 10 miles until we popped out just past Port Harvey. The thick fog is spooky, since you can’t see very far, but also frustrating, as it’s challenging maintaining a straight course with little visual aid. This is a situation where a course maintained via autopilot would allow you to focus on watching radar, AIS, and the water ahead for things like logs or kayaks. Especially when traveling slowly, I always seem to be 20 degrees from my intended course or in the process of over-correcting.

The fog bank we pushed through for over an hour and a mess of kelp - two of my less favorite things


There was some light fog as we approached Race Passage, but became clearer throughout the day. We arrived at Race Passage just after slack current in Johnstone Strait, so Race Passage was a little more placid than when we went through westbound on June 14. We caught up with Sybil and Bo on SYBO just after Ripple Point and chatted with them on the radio before they turned up Discovery Passage and we continued east into Nodales Channel.

Ripple Point in Johnstone Strait - not named after the wine


We’ve anchored in the northeast corner of Thurston Bay Marine Park behind Block Island in 45 feet. It’s a calm, gorgeous afternoon. I had considered the route via Greene Point Rapids; this route toward Desolation Sound is a few miles farther, but I didn’t’ have to plan around slack at Greene Point, which is later this afternoon. We have about 12 miles to go before we arrive at the Dent-Gillard-Yuculta series of rapids tomorrow morning, where high slack begins about 10:33 am. Our plan is to stay in Lund tomorrow night before striking back across the Strait of Georgia on Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

[LesR]

Monday, September 6, 2021
Thurston Bay to Lund

Miles today: 48
Total Miles: 3017

Thurston Bay Sunset


With low slack (Turn to Flood) at Dent Rapids forecast for 10:33, we left Thurston Bay at 8:30 to give us plenty of time to cover the 11-12 miles. A big fog bank sat at the intersection of the Nadales and Cordero channels. We fell third in line behind a sailboat and a large cruiser as we approached Dent. We maintained our spacing on the other two boats via radar, and the fog lifted during the last few miles prior to the first rapid.

Approaching Dent


The big cruiser went through a few minutes early, the sailboat hit Dent at slack, and we followed him by a few minutes in very calm water. The open water northwest of the rapids was pretty swirly as we waited for slack, but the main flow of water was smooth during our transit. The sailboat was going pretty slow and would likely be a little late for Gillard, so we accelerated and passed him in the bay between Dent and Gillard. We went through Gillard at slack time and Yuculta a few minutes early without incident. It was interesting to see the numerous resorts and fishing lodges in this area.

Dent Rapids


Sonora Resort east of Gillard Passage


After fixing lunch, we ran on plane the rest of the way to Lund and arrived here about 1:30. Shower, laundry, and someone else’s cooking were this afternoon’s agenda. Horror of Horrors – Nancy’s Bakery will be closed tomorrow – no cinnamon rolls for me.

 

[LesR]

Tuesday, September 7, 2021
Lund to Pilot Bay

Miles today: 86
Total Miles: 3103

We left Lund late this morning after adding some fuel and spending the last of our Canadian cash at the store. I added enough gas to get to Friday Harbor; I’ll add enough cheaper gas there to finish the final 70 or so miles to Everett.

Having heard about the nice sandy beaches at Savary Island just a few miles southeast of Lund, we motored around it on our way out. We decided not to stop after rounding the western-most end of the island, seeing only rocky shoreline on the south side, and realizing we had passed the sandy beaches on the island’s north.

We continued on to Tribune Bay at the south end of Hornby Island. There’s a nice sandy beach and park that are quite popular. A number of boats were anchored in the bay. I had thought about anchoring in Tribune Bay for the night until the latest forecast indicated winds would shift to the southeast overnight. We anchored for an hour to enjoy the sunshine and warm weather (75 degrees F) then continued southeast in amazingly calm seas.



My latest plan for the day was to spend the night at Northwest Bay. With the calm seas this afternoon and brisk winds forecast for early tomorrow, we decided to keep going. Waves became bigger and messier the closer we got to Nanaimo, forcing us to slow down. We made it to Pilot Bay at the north end of Gabriola Island at 6:30 pm, as we had missed the window late this afternoon at Dodd Narrows. This anchorage puts just a few miles from Dodd Narrows and limits our open-water exposure should winds be strong in the morning.

 

[LesR]

Wednesday, September 8, 2021
Pilot Bay to James Bay

Miles today: 36
Total Miles: 3139

Pilot Bay was pretty bouncy all night. It’s a nice bay with cute homes and cottages lining the shore and a park at its head. It’s open to the east and not very long, so swells from Strait of Georgia and wakes from the BC Ferries and tows that use the nearby channel can reach the bay. The wind held the bow to the south, with the swells entering from the east and hitting us on the beam. It was rolly enough that we didn’t try to cook breakfast, but relaxed and took care of a few other chores.



After I disengaged a small crab who had attached himself to the chain, we pulled the anchor and started toward Dodd Narrows shortly after 10:00 am, with a slack and turn to flood forecast for 11:42 am. We had rain showers overnight, but the skies began to clear as we were leaving. By the time we approached the narrows at 11:15, there was a train of ten boats starting the southbound passage. It was very orderly; the largest cruiser started through, and everyone else followed expeditiously, so that all the southbound boats had passed through during the last of the ebb flow several minutes before the flood started. Another half dozen or so boats were waiting to pass north as we finished the passage, which was still flowing south with force, but without a lot of turbulence.

Approaching Dodd Narrows


Dodd Narrows


Initially the water was smooth as we headed south, but became choppy after several miles. There was plenty of fetch for the breezy southeast winds today, so we paced ourselves and bounced through at 7 mph. There were five tankers anchored in or along Trincomali Channel, and we saw one more enter the channel via Active Pass late in the afternoon. Is this standard or is there more to the story?



We pulled into James Bay on Prevost Island at 3:00 pm. There were already three sailboats anchored when we arrived, so we took a spot on the south edge of the bay in about 35 feet. There’s a comfortable breeze, and we’re protected from the waves in the main channel.

James Bay


Latest mechanical issue – our freshwater pump ceased to function yesterday. It had intermittently not turned on when needed, leading me to suspect a wiring connection rather than the pump itself. I carry a spare pump, so can replace it if necessary. The pump is located in the compartment covered up with my cockpit storage box, so I’m waiting until we arrive in Friday Harbor tomorrow where I’ll have a little dock space to work with.

 

[LesR]

Thursday, September 9, 2021
James Bay to Friday Harbor

Miles today: 30
Total Miles: 3169

Sunrise at James Bay


Everything was calm when we awoke this morning and turned south out of James Bay at 7:00 am. The busiest part of our morning was Captain Passage to Swanson Channel, where we had to dodge three separate ferries running across that channel between North Pender and Prevost Islands. In general, it seems as if the boat traffic in the Channel Islands is higher than during our transit in June.

Not much else exciting to report, as we had smooth seas for the run to Friday Harbor. I submitted our entry report via the CBP ROAM app just after we crossed the border. The customs officer in Friday Harbor initiated a video call, reviewed our information, and welcomed us back to the U.S. – very efficient and convenient.

After stopping at the fuel dock for enough gas to get to Everett tomorrow, we pulled into our slip and finished a couple tasks/repairs. I replaced the inoperative water pump with my spare and put a new rechargeable battery into the day/night solar fan in the head.

It’s good to be back in the U.S. and hard to believe we’re only a day away from Everett, where we started three months ago. We’re planning to transit Deception Pass at the 1:00 pm slack and make it to Everett later in the afternoon.

 

[journey on]

Much thanks for you trip log, especially your pictures. The whole trip must have been wonderful.

It really reminded me of our trips to Alaska on our sailboat, (Our Journey) and the many trips on Journey On around the Gulf Islands and north.

Plese take a picture of the boat being hauled out. That would be great.

A wonderful trip, I enjoyed reading every bit of it.

Boris

 

[Pat Anderson]

Les, +1 on what Boris said! I followed you nearly every day on C-Brats at least, and it was a wonderful trip vicariously!

 

[thataway]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to take the photos, write up the travels and share then with all of us. Nicely done.

 

[DayBreak]

Thank you Les and Kel. Your photos and information have been invaluable. We have enjoyed being a part of your journey. Gary and Colleen.

 

[LesR]

Friday, September 10, 2021
Friday Harbor to Everett

Miles today: 68
Total Miles: 3237

Sailing Yacht Spike Africa in Friday Harbor


The U.S. Navy greeted our arrival at Everett this afternoon with a destroyer escort. Actually, the USS Ralph Johnson (DDG-114) was SLOWLY approaching the Navy Base as we arrived from the south, and we didn’t feel it would be appropriate for us to blast past the ship and her escorts into the narrow channel.

USS Ralph Johnson (DDG-114)


The rest of our trip from Friday Harbor today was fairly uneventful. I would not have minded spending an extra day in Friday Harbor, but the weather for the next couple days looked less agreeable than today’s. We left the marina at 9:00 for the 25-mile run to Deception Pass and a 1:00 pm slack. I wasn’t sure what to expect as the ebb tide flushed us through Cattle Pass at the south end of San Juan Island into the westerly winds on Strait of Juan de Fuca. The waves were not too high, but were confused as we made the transition. It would definitely be challenging with a stronger ebb and/or higher winds.

Cattle Pass


Cattle Point



We kept a fairly slow pace since we had plenty of time, arriving at Deception pass about 30 minutes early. A sailboat went through the pass first, and a train of five other boats formed up behind her about 15 minutes ahead of slack. The sportiest aspect of this passage involved avoiding the dozen or so small fishing boats all congregated below the bridge. We had smooth water on the east side of Whidbey Island for the rest of the way into Everett. There was no large commercial traffic to contend with on today’s route.

Approaching Deception Pass Eastbound


Looking back into Deception Pass from the West


We’re thankful to have returned to Everett without injury to ourselves or Intuition. We’ll spend the next few days here cleaning up, loading the truck, and preparing for the drive back to St. Louis via our son’s home near Davis, California. At this point any descriptions of our experience feel like understatements - this has definitely been a “First in a lifetime” trip for us. Thank you all so much for your prior accounts, recommendations, and encouragement throughout this adventure.

 

[smckean (Tosca)]

The thought of this magnificent trip (and, yes, so much thanks for sharing it with us as you have), and St Louis made me smile!

Clearly, there are folks in this world who know how to dream.

 

[Hunkydory]

The thought of this magnificent trip (and, yes, so much thanks for sharing it with us as you have), and St Louis made me smile!

Clearly, there are folks in this world who know how to dream.

Sandy, I don’t mean this in a mean spirited way, I have known many who dream of doing exceptional things, that can’t get beyond the dreaming. Always planning but not doing. Les & Kel took the dream & turned it, as you said “magnificently” into reality.

Jay

 

[Pat Anderson]

The thought of this magnificent trip (and, yes, so much thanks for sharing it with us as you have), and St Louis made me smile!

Clearly, there are folks in this world who know how to dream.

Sandy, I don’t mean this in a mean spirited way, I have known many who dream of doing exceptional things, that can’t get beyond the dreaming. Always planning but not doing. Les & Kel took the dream & turned it, as you said “magnificently” into reality.

Jay

Les and Kel participated in our "deam trip," the Great Loop. When we were in Alton, IL (just across the river from St. Louis), they came over and we had supper together. I wonder when they are going to do the Loop! But you are right, "dreaming don't make it so," you have to get up and do it!

 

[hardee]

Les and Kel, You have really knocked it out of the park with this. I have been off the I-net for a while but have just caught up and this has been a terrific journal. Thanks you for sharing and for the great photos, descriptions and the corollary blog. Looking forward to reading it again this winter too.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon