installing wallas 2400 need parts, looking for input too

J

Jake B

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C Dory Year
1989
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
PLUS 3
so we picked up a wallas heater a while back and have been waiting for better weather to start gathering up all the parts needed to install it. we only have the unit and the kerosene pick up lines and switch. I am currently looking at options for a through hull exhaust not sure what one to get. and am still torn between exhausting below window on starboard side by sink, or piping it up and exhaust out the roof? are there pluses and minuses to this.

also I plan on getting some kind of universal vent/screens for the pick up and put out. and figured general flexible ducting would work for the plumbing it. going to mount it under sink as well and figured since i have the fuel pick ups already a one gallon gas can or something similar would work there. it has two heat outputs so I was planning on this.

intake as close to ground as i can get but still have it flush mount onto the cabinet starboard side. then heat output above that in cabinet as high as can. and the second I am torn about just having them both dump into cabin or try to plumb one into cuddy? as we wont always be sleeping on boat when its needed I thought if we did sleep on the boat I can just point a fan into cuddy and that would move warm air? Heater controls will be mounted onto kitchen cabinet also.

This post is for some part info but also to bounce ideas off all the people here as I am sure someone has done it before or sees a better lay out. I am open to info and ideas looking to install it once and have it be as effective and clean as can be.
I have all summer to piece together and install so I am not in a hurry just needs to be in by September.

And on a final note the switch is not the current one that has multiple setting like the one on scan marine web site. Its on off low high. I debated getting the newer one but for couple hundred bucks was not sure if it was worth it?? Problem is the switch I have and the newer one are different shapes so I need to commit to that before cutting it out also.
 
I would not want the vent near a window. Venting thru the roof makes some techinical and cosmetic issues.

You will get better air circulation for the bunk, if you duct it to that area specifically--however, I would consider a "Y" valve (manual) which would allow you to direct the foreward air flow either to the bunk or by the helm. Heat rises, so you want the registers low in the boat. (AC is the opposite).

There should be a filter with the pickup kit. If not a sintered bronze filter is best.

I would put the control on the side of the console where you can reach it form the bunk or helm, rather than under the galley counter on the facing. It is only wires which can be of any practical length.
 
Just a few thoughts. I agree with Bob about the placement of the control. Mine is just in side of the vberth. This allows me to turn in on and off from the bed or the captains seat. You don't want to play " who's getting up on cold morning to start the heater" with your wife, because you always lose that one, trust me :wink:

I have my combustion air pickup on the floor behind the cabinet. really no reason to cut a hole for this one, It will get plenty of air back there.

what are you using for insulation on the exhaust pipe? these get far hotter then a wallas cook top. I bought the hi end fiberglass wrap and it works great but I think its over kill for the price. I believe that a auto exhaust pipe type wrap would work just as good, be easier to handle and work with and cost far less.

Do you have a section of stainless steel pipe with a drain in it? This is for the combustion air exhaust. You will need it in case you get a wave in the exhaust pipe. I don't have one but its on my list of to-dos. We have had the unit go out because water got in the pipe, not in the unit. This blockage causes more pressure then the unit can over come and it will shut down. You do not want to have to remove that hot exhaust pipe every time it happens, trust me :oops:

We have only one vent in the boat and it seems to heat the whole boat very well. In fact some times it will run you out of the boat. I some times want to run another out let to hit the windows but don't feel a need for one in the cabin. That said I would try it and then wonder how I ever lived without it.
 
One more thing . I just used a cheap red plastic gas can from autozone or walmart for the fuel. It was easy to convert the cap with the parts that came with the unit. No need to spend a lot of money on a fuel can from Wallas.
 
a lot of good info. here as of now I have not purchased any duct or plumbing stuff. I did not know about the filter and will pick one up I imagine its just an inline filter? also about the stainless steel pipe with a drain for exhaust I also have not heard of. so is it a split off the exhaust pipe, like off a Y? I will search around google and see if i can see this set up also. also good to know the pick up will get enough air just under the counter. and sounds like i will put the outputs lower than i had planned. a red gas tank is the game plan for the fuel I figured that would work. and i will put the control in spot that is reachable from cuddy and cabin, i know i would loose that one every time too on cold mornings haha.
 
also on the ducting I will wrap with auto header wrap. but was curious is there a special duct i should use? i was planning on something from home depo....
 
thanks for the links that helped a lot. so for the copper drain in the pipe I am assuming that if you did take a wave it would shut the unit down then you would drain and restart? if its on a manual valve its the only way i can see it going? also for the through hull if you would not want that near a window then where would one suggest putting it? on the side of the cabin works but I would like to keep it as high from the water line as possible, and want minimal hot ss pipe or duct exposed in the cabin. want to try and keep this as clean and unseen as possible.
 
Yes on the drain pipe. You cant have a open drain because the exhaust would flow thru it and fill the cab with heat and smoke. It just makes it alot easier to drain if you have to. Its also depends and were the unit ends up.

My exhaust, and most that I have seen on 22's, is just below the rub rail on below the or just behind the back part of the side window. Which does not open. You just dont want it below the front part of the window that does open and could suck in fumes.

Most people have used the same hole as the wallas exhaust if you are replacing the wallas.

Are you taking the wallas out or did you not have one to begin with? what do you have for a cooking stove?
 
yeah i don't have a wallas it has origo alcohol cook top. and I like the way it works and is simple thats why we decided to keep it and get a different heat system. sounds good about the exhaust port. and should all be able to keep it all under the cabinet. thanks for the info.

Glad i asked otherwise I would of mad a few errors. no drain for water. and vents too high also like the idea of the manual valve on a Y for heat to cuddy.as well as few other good ideas. so thankyou.

also I am assuming the scan marine through hull exhaust is the best one to get? i was kind of hoping there was one that was kind of like a one way valve to keep water out but the drain out will take care of that.
 
One way valves are too complex and un reliable. We have had several heaters and Wallas stoves, and never had any problems with water in the exhaust.
 
The Wallas stoves sit higher then the exhaust in a 22. The problem that you may run into is that you are going to put the new heater under the cabinet, lower then the exhaust. If you have room you can run the exhaust tub upward and then down again making a hump that the water would not be able to go up and thus drain out by its self, as it does in the Wallas stoves. In my application I was not able to do that, thus the need for a drain in line.

There are more then a few different thru hull that you can buy. Some where on the link I sent you. Make sure you use a good cork or heat resistant gasket at the thru hull and even some high temp gasket sealer to go with it. if you read into Scan marines site , or sure marines, you will see this recommend.

We have had the heater blown out by hi wind at anchor more often then water, far more often. I don't like scan marines add on deflector plate as it would hit the bunks on my trailer. But I am thinking of moving the bunks any way.
 
so I have been putting this off and now its winter time and I need to get it done before BM tourney coming up. I have been on scan marine web site as well as sure marine. I think I am going to get most the parts off scan marine as I don't want to mess with things not fitting right. I However don't need 25' of Heater duct at the cost of 150$. We have decided to run from under sink to cabinet and second one out to v birth. I figure I will need about 10-15' of duct. I was wondering for those of you with wallas installed is the heater duct like the aluminum type ducting? I am just looking for options for this final part of the plan I plan to place order for most of the parts this week/weekend.

thanks for any help....
 
after looking close at scan marine you can buy it by the foot so I will just go that way and know its all good to go.
thanks
 
Here's to a smooth installation. I found Scan really helpful when I stopped in to ask them about various Wallas options/parts/pieces.

I haven't decided which way to go for heat yet, but one of my options is a Wallas (1300 or 1800). Have you seen the albums of "Dora~Jean" and "Life of Riley"? They both installed Wallas 1300's under the galley. Their photos might be helpful.

Dora~Jean:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

Life of Riley:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
 
thanks for those links and yeah i have been looking at various dory installs here lately. I feel like I have most of everything lined up to go. I could not find a pic of the thru-hull on scan marine web site but if it looks like the one in those links should work just fine. I think the 2400 will be a bit over kill for our boat but time will tell on that.
 
P1000160.jpg
Typical picture of an exhaust drain note exhaust coming out no exhaust plumbing attached yet hex cap is the drain. Some add a copper drain line in a coil configuration to a small can to collect any drainage. You could check the Pacific Wander photo album. Rubber encased fuel pump mount to the left. This is an Espar D-2 heater. I thought in IMHO that Wallas parts were crazy expensive from all the moaning heard here on this site.
D.D.
 
yeah I am finding wallas to be on the spendy side as well. thanks for the pic I had not thought of how i was going to do a drain or try the big upward bend and see if that gets rid of most the condensation/ ocean water......
 
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