In Need of a Kayak Rack Concept

RobMcClain

RobMcClain

Member
The cabin top of our 2006 CC Venture 23 is well occupied. Towards the rear is a large 100w solar panel permanently installed, and towards the front on a pedestal is a Raymarine radar dome. I am trying to think of a way I can temporarily carry a lightweight kayak up there without risking damage to anything. I'm not looking to create anything heavy duty or permanent, and only plan to use this technique in calm conditions. Clearly, while the kayak is up there it will prevent the solar panel from working. I know I can easily deflate the kayak when necessary, but is there a way I can put it up instead? I tested using PVC attached to the hand rails, but because the distance between the rails widens as they go forward PVC does not accommodate this sort of angling. Any creative ideas out there that won't cost a ton? I need to elevate the rear of the kayak about 14." I've looked at car top racks, but they are cost prohibitive for our limited use. I have an idea using stainless but before I consider this route any further I want to ask folks what they might suggest.

Thanks for any ideas you might have...

Rob
 
Rob, look at Yakima rain gutter style towers and bars. The towers will clamp over your hand rails. Craigslist often has great deals on used towers and bars. 'J' style rack would put the kayak on its side, and may give you the lift you need.

Thule would probably work, too. I just saw a set on the PDX list for $145, including locks.
 
Rob,

You did mention that you could deflate the kayaks. Not sure how long they are, but could you stand them on end in the cockpit for a short time. My aft rack would work (something like it) and it could be built out of SS tubing, or Heave Duty PVC, for much less than my SS pipe, and be much lighter. I have seen several other boats with a similar system for kayaks.

Good luck.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_070.thumb.jpg
 
The Yakima gutter towers are called the "1A" btw. They typically have the round crossbars on the top, but you can also attach anything (like a board, riser, etc.) to the flat part of the top with a fastener through the hole (you remove the circle thingie that holds the round bars). I have done this many times "back in the day" for making my own kayak racks (with boards vs. bars). As mentioned, they are pretty easy to find these days on Craigslist, etc. due to so many cars no longer having gutters, so people just have them gathering dust.

I thought about the fact that a kayak would block a solar panel, but then figured that would be mostly underway, and then I have the alternator going. When anchoring you might be likely to launch it anyway (?)

Here are a few ideas/photos that I have saved from other C-Dories:

1) I think PVC could work even though the handrails diverge (unless I'm not visualizing how you meant). They diverge slightly on a 22 as well, but you can angle the feet relative to the cross bar. This is 1" PVC (Prosimedia):

roof_rack_1_PVC_prosimedia_2.jpg

roof_rack_1_PVC_prosimedia_1.jpg

2) Yakima 1A gutter towers (Bossa Nova and Scout). Bossa Nova has used boards across instead of the bars (maybe he's an old kayaker too?). I think you could add some spacers between the brackets and the cross bars - especially if not putting a super heavy load on.

bossa_nova_roof_rack_1.jpg

roof_rack_Yakima_gutter_racks.jpg

3) Taylor Made rail-mount flagpole sockets have been used along with stainless tubing (Carpy, C-Daisy):

roof_rack_carpy.jpg

kayak_rack_C_Daisy_2.jpg

kayak_rack_C_Daisy_Taylor_made_flagpole_sockets.jpg

4) C-Dory Grace made these wooden racks that lash onto the handrail tubing. Maybe they give an idea that could be modified:

simple_fir_kayak_rack_lashed.jpg

simple_rack_deatail_cut_groove_and_pad.jpg

************

Another possibility: I'm making a base for some semi-rigid solar panels using these split mounts on the handrails: Not actual size :shock:


102346_1_zoom.jpg


http://www.sailrite.com/Split-Side-Mount-7-8-Stainless

Sometimes these can come in handy in various ways:

672423Lrg.jpg


http://www.rei.com/product/672423/river ... oam-blocks
 
Rob,

As I recall, Bill and El carried an inflatable dinghy on Halcyon's roof - upside down. They nestled it over the radar dome and it worked just fine. Since you're talking about an inflatable kayak, that might be an idea. You might have to build-up the space with something (both fore and aft) but I think that would be pretty easy; maybe even something like a kids pool toy that would fit over the radar dome (then invert your kayak over the whole thing and tie it down).

When we made the carrier for our Hobie tandem we had to deal with Dessert 1st "rocket launcher" (rod holder) that made the project pretty challenging. It finally got done, but if we were to do it again we'd probably opt for a lighter (possibly inflatable) kayak. We've actually considered selling the Hobie. It's a Great kayak, but just too much of a hassle to launch and retrieve from the cabin top (although the Garhauer lift makes it doable).

Best,
Casey&Mary
 
Rob,
We have often carried our inflatable day to day rather than going through all the trouble of deflating it. I have a lot on our roof, a storage rack, radar, anchor light, solar panel etc. We simply strap the kayak, upside down on top of every thing. The anchor light folds down, the radar shoots through the kayak and seems to work fine. The solar panel is covered, but as Sunbeam mentioned, we are on the alternators then. We generally take the kayak for a spin when we anchor and the solar is back in business.
Very simple, but it works!

Bruce
Carpy
 
C-Brats are wonderful! Lots of good ideas that I truly appreciate. Having quick access to the links is great, and Sunbeam thanks for all the photos. Our kayak is a Sea Eagle FastTrack 385ft, which is just over 12' long. My original plan was to invert it with the bow settled over the radar dome and the stern resting on a PVC tube. To attach the PVC to the stainless handrails I built an inverted V that would attach to the rails and the tube would then extend across from the point of the inverted V. Because of the spread at the base of the inverted V and the outward angling of the handrail, my plan revealed the major flaw when working with PVC. It is easy to work with but lacks flexibility working with angles. The plan works if the spread of the V is small, meaning the cross bar is set low, but not if set high, like 14." But I've now got some more ideas...... Thanks to all!

Rob
 
We hauled kayaks on top of Wild Blue from Texas to the PNW to Lake Powell and back to Texas...

WBAnchored2e.jpg

The solution that worked for us: an inexpensive "universal" cross bar that I bought at Walmart (on sale for $35, if I remember correctly)...

http://www.walmart.com/ip/48-Telescopic ... k/37391583

We originally started with two sets of J-mounts (Malone), one for each kayak. The Hobie Mirage Sport was a bit heavy for that set up. I removed one set of J-mounts and wrapped the cross bars with pool noodles. The lightweight Pelican kayak stayed on the J-mount, the heavier Hobie laid upside down on the pool noodles covering the cross bars.

Easy and relatively inexpensive. I could have done it for less money without the J-mounts, but both kayaks wouldn't fit laying directly on the cross bars.

The universal cross bar was designed as a car top mount. I took the buckles off (that would normally fit on the lip for the door opening) and, using the straps, lashed it to the handrails on top of the boat. It all worked fine at 60mph on the road and at our usual boat cruising speeds on the water.

With solar panels, you might have to fashion a block to raise the cross bar up a bit, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't work, especially with the lighter weight of an inflatable kayak.

As with most boat things, especially on these size boats, you may have to make some "adjustments" to bring the kayak along. Less solar, probably. But you can offset the kayak to one side to minimize that.

Good luck with the project,
Jim
 
We have a Sea Eagle Fast Track 485 and have really enjoyed it as a tandem kayak. It's a bit longer then the 385. We added an extension to our wooded rack to give more support. It works well. Our simple wood rack is light, cheap and easy to remove for winter storage under a tarp. Here are a couple views. Also in the image is Voyager with what I believe is a Thule rack.

C_dory_roof_rack.sized.jpg
 
This thread has a good collection of ideas and photos for racks so I want to add a link to one more. In our photo album is now a sub album titled "PVC Kayak Rack." It contains 4 photos of a rack I easily built using PVC piping from Lowe's. The entire rack cost about $12. It is easy to pop on and take off, and provides us the ability to carry the inflatable without deflating it. We've now used it in a range of environmental conditions and it works great without adversely affecting the boat's handling. It is amazingly strong and easily supports our 32 pound inflatable Sea Eagle kayak.



Rob
 
Harvey, I have the rack physically connected to the cabin top with hose clamps, and then I use 2 rachet straps connected to the hand rails to hold the kayak down. Finally, I run a line from the boat's bow cleat to the bow of the kayak. The kayak doesn't move an inch. When we were on Yellowstone Lake recently we went for a cruise with the kayak in place on top. The wind kicked up while we were out and I kept the kayak on the rack to see how everything performed. It rode perfectly, as did the boat. I had (and continue to) anticipate the kayak will have a meaningful impact on the boat's handling but so far that has not been the case. I wanted the kayak to ride generally level so not to catch air unnecessarily and that seems to have worked. We had decent 2-3' waves on Yellowstone and everything rode fine. On Flaming Gorge we used the rack again and it was great, in calm and in wind. As for the roller, the rubber material the kayak is made from has a tendency to stick to things so if iI try to move or slide the kayak on the rack it is difficult. The roller resolves that issue. I just lift the kayak into the slot between the uprights and then roll if fore/aft into position. The 2 pieces of PVC slip together perfectly with no unnecessary slop between them.

Rob
 
Lots of great ideas!

I wanted to be able to carry 4 or more full size kayaks at a time, so it had to be really sturdy. I made a set of mounts from that plastic material that comes in sheets (like a cutting board), cut and drilled them so they could be attached to the grab rails with u-bolts, then attached Yakima false rain gutters. Now my Yakima racks fit perfectly and any Yakima attachment such as kayak stackers and boxes fit perfectly.

IMG_6956.sized.jpg

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IMG_6920.sized.jpg
 
I TIG welded some aluminum "T" brackets up on my boat that bolt into the roof with backing plates. They are not removable, but they do make it nice to store shrimp pots and extra gas tanks on when the boats are not up there. I'd post a picture I were smart.
 
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