Impeller replacement on Honda 150

S

sjhantzis

New member
My 2004 B150 has less than 200 hours on it and I'm thinking of replacing the impeller. Here are my questions:

1. Should I? It seems like a number of C-Brats have gotten major hours on their equipment without obvious wear.

2. Does anyone have a link or PDF of the factory procedure?

3. Can I do it in the boatyard with Catleen on blocks?

Thanks for your collective wisdom. All thoughts are welcome.
 
Thanks, Charlie. I saw that earlier post about 650 hours and thought I might be over-reacting. Years are probably a concern as well as hours if the impeller is made of rubber, right?
 
I did impeller replacement on my Suzuki's at 300 hours. Only because the engines are 7 year old. The old impellers were both nice a flexible so now I am saving them as emergency spares. The whole process took me two hours for the first motor, and one hour for the second motor. That was the learning curve. I've change impellers on several motors, but all have different ways of disconnecting the shift shaft and that is often the hang up for getting the job done quickly.

It is a very simple job overall though and keeping things clean and properly torqued is important. Buy a goo torque wrench, and use common sense and you should be good.

It is particularly important to make sure that the new impeller is installed so that the blades curve in the direction opposite rotation. The vanes on the new impeller, will be pointing straight out from the hub. AS you push the new impeller onto the hub, you will want to twist it so the end of the vanes point opposite normal rotation.

Good luck. It is a fun job and you will need a partner with a good back to help actually lower the lower unit off the motor. Otherwise, it is a solo job.
 
we do ours ourselves and think most anyone could do it too. like mentioned the main thing is figuring out how your shift linkage disconnects and to not mess with the adjustments while taking apart and re assembling. we replace our water pumps every other year, regardless of hours and that is overkill. but its a cheap part and one that could leave you stranded if it failed. just part of the spring time maintenance getting the boat ready.
 
Another thought. When that big ol' lower unit on your 150 does let go and want to come off it is going to be heavy, so keep some support under it until you are SURE that you are getting the last bolt and shift connector loose. I have seen one of these just fall off onto the ground in a video because it was not supported...major damage. So, be sure you have a buff friend at that time.
 
I replaced the impeller on Journey On's 150 Honda at ~300 hrs. It was (1) straightforward and (2) didn't need it.

If and when you do it, I'd invest in a Honda service manual. just so you have some idea of what's in there. Good buy if you're going to service that motor anyway.

My only comment on the job itself, is have some wood blocks to support the lower case when it comes loose. While it's not heavy, one doesn't want to drop it. And plan on 2 sets of hands for replacement, since you have to line up several items.

And lastly, I'd replace the low pressure and high pressure fuel filters in the engine first. Some of the gas we get isn't the cleanest. Oh, and your Racor element.

Boris
 
While not for Honda's I posted the following for Suzuki's: http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... t=impeller

It will give you an idea of the process. If you can follow instructions and carry 40lbs you can do it yourself no problem. I would definitely suggest buying the actual service manual for your engines. This manual will run you about $60 last time I checked.

For warranty purposes I changed mine out every other season but they last a lot longer than that. Part of the value of the process is checking/lubing the bolts holding your lower unit together. If those get too corroded it would be a heck of a job for a mechanic to get things apart in the future.
 
One factor regarding how long an impeller lasts is where the motor is operated.

There's a big difference between being operated in clean fresh lake water all the time and being operated in shallow sandy flats in a place like Florida with the sand going through the pump like it was an abrasive slurry! Ditto for some river doings! (Operating). :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
It looks like the "Honda BF135 BF150 Marine Outboard Service Repair Shop Manual" is $114 on Amazon. What bums me is that it does not seem to be available as PDF. Who in the heck wants all that paper?
 
Hm, gone up since I bought mine. Those Japanese are clever, the manual for my Toyota car was $400 on a CD.

Try buying a SELOC HONDA OUTBOARD MOTOR ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL for $21. I'm not sure what you get for $21, but it might get you through the basic servicing on your Honda. Covers all Honda outboards from 2002 to 2008, and the 150 hasn't changed much. There may be another aftermarket with more info, this is the first I found.

Let me mention that my paper service manual is covered with notes. Since I don't buy Adobe Acrobat, this is the only way to save my comments in the right page. And it's also covered with greasy fingerprints. "Hard copy" has it's advantages

Boris
 
I cheaped out. Bought a CD on Ebay from someone in the UK, total $15. If that doesn't work, I'll buy factory and lug the paper around. I used to haul a good 30 pounds of manuals and documents onboard and slowly but surely, I've replaced them all with PDFs on my iDevices. Much slicker and searchable, as well.
 
I just got the Honda BF90D Service Manual. It was $97 and change with shipping from Amazon. Honda refers you to Amazon to buy the manual.

It's a paper copy and includes a binder and fold out electrical schematic.
 
OK, here's what the service manual shows.

Page 3-16 describes the replacement of the fuel strainer (low pressure side.) It's in a glass cup adjacent to the water separator (sediment bowl) where the fuel enters the engine. Lift the cowling and it's on the port forward side. For the 2005 Honda 150 on Journey On the P/n is16901-ZY3-003 and the O-ring is 16918-ZY3-003

Page 3-18/19 describes the replacement of the fuel Strainer (high pressure side.) It's in the vapor separator. the manual has a procedure for relieving the fuel pressure from the vapor separator/strainer. The P/N for the fuel strainer is 16911-ZY3-010, the o-ring is 16078-ZY3-000 and the sealing washer is 90403-PD6_003, for the same engine as above.

The first time I replaced them was when the engine would not go above 35oo RPM on the Columbia River. Bad batch of fuel. I buy them from boats.net Honda parts . Good service, parts in stock and a little cheaper than the Honda dealer, even including postage. It's hard to find Honda outboard parts in San Diego.

On the external fuel filter, the original element that came with the boat said "Honda". It's a Racor element with the Honda name painted over. Buy the cheaper of the 2.

Boris
 
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