Impeller Debris in engine

C

CDory23

New member
I recently had an impeller failure and the impeller broke into many pieces when it failed. There was too much debris and small pieces to be able to collect and fit it back together on the impeller to make it "whole" to see if I recovered it all. I"m now concerned that there may be some small debris in the engine that could create an overheating issue while on the water. Is there any reccomendations on trying to recover any more potenital pieces?

Motor is an 03 Yamaha F40. Maybe pull the thermostat? Is there a screen somewhere? Motor currently is running fine on the earmuffs.
 
CDory23":2ut7ezpa said:
I recently had an impeller failure and the impeller broke into many pieces when it failed. There was too much debris and small pieces to be able to collect and fit it back together on the impeller to make it "whole" to see if I recovered it all. I"m now concerned that there may be some small debris in the engine that could create an overheating issue while on the water. Is there any reccomendations on trying to recover any more potenital pieces?

Motor is an 03 Yamaha F40. Maybe pull the thermostat? Is there a screen somewhere? Motor currently is running fine on the earmuffs.
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Pull & replace the thermostat if your in doubt.
If you change that Impeller every 2-3 years they come out in ONE PIECE. Have a good one!
8) :wink:
 
Yes, it was supposedly changed when I had bought the boat and it wasn't time to change it yet.

With that being said I had two bad habits that could have caused this issue.

1. I routinely start my motor dry just before launching at the ramp to make sure motor will run once launched and I don't hold up the line.

2. I would run the motors with the flushing attachment. I now know that with the engine should only be run out of water with earmuffs.

Either or both of these issues could create overheating and turn the impeller brittle which would create this damage.

I will be checking the thermostat housing for debris and running the boat for an overnighter lake trip tonight.

Unfortunately I ran the engines with the flushing attachment for about 10 minutes with new impellers before I realized I shouldnt be doing that. I"m ordering new impellers housing to replace once again even though everything is still running fine on muffs.

Simple stupid mistakes!
 
CDory23":29pzby1m said:
Yes, it was supposedly changed when I had bought the boat and it wasn't time to change it yet.

With that being said I had two bad habits that could have caused this issue.

1. I routinely start my motor dry just before launching at the ramp to make sure motor will run once launched and I don't hold up the line.

2. I would run the motors with the flushing attachment. I now know that with the engine should only be run out of water with earmuffs.

Either or both of these issues could create overheating and turn the impeller brittle which would create this damage.

I will be checking the thermostat housing for debris and running the boat for an overnighter lake trip tonight.

Unfortunately I ran the engines with the flushing attachment for about 10 minutes with new impellers before I realized I shouldnt be doing that. I"m ordering new impellers housing to replace once again even though everything is still running fine on muffs.

Simple stupid mistakes!
Click to expand...


For the $10-$12 for stat & gasket I replace them if I need to look & 2 or 3 seconds dry at the top of the ramp will hurt nothing! Have fun on your outing!!!
 
yes, the only reason I"m not replacing all of the gaskets is I just replaced everything. I don't think the 10 minutes I ran the engine with the flushing accesory connected could hurt or overheat any other parts besides the metal housing insert and the impeller. I could be wrong.

Don't see what removing the thermostat could do as its for oil temp not cooling water. Taking all visible hoses off and flushing everything possible and inspecting for any old impeller pieces debris.
 
Well, you've had a good lesson in why one doesn't run the impeller dry. If you don't do that in the future, you can expect the impeller to last.

Though I'm not familiar with the Yamaha engines, removing the thermostat is a good point to start for recovering debris. Removing and flushing the hoses is another good thought.

I'm going to add replacing the impeller to my to-do list this winter. I've changed it once since I got Journey On, new. So that's 5 years per impeller. However, I don't deliberately run it dry.

Boris
 
Don't see what removing the thermostat could do as its for oil temp not cooling water.
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Thermostat is in the water cooling system, not the oil.

I run the engine at the house on muffs before heading to the ramp--you should not run the engine with out cooling water, dry--for any reason--even for a few seconds. When you put in a new water pump, it is a good idea put put a little water pumps or silicone grease on the impeller blades to give it a little lube when you first fire it up (in the water).

Yes, when flushing on the hose--do not run the engine.
 
Ok. I was looking at the engine oil overheat sensor. Will take thermostat off today. Thanks.

Engine ran fine on last trip but will still replace impeller since I ran it for 10minutes with flushing accesory.
 
I would not run the OB's unless they are in the water. I have 2 Yamaha F40's. From my Yamaha Certified mechanic -- "flush the engine after running in salt water. Flush through the hose attachment only, and DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE when flushing. Change the impellers at 300 hours or every 3 years, whichever comes first." So far that has worked. I have over 1000 hours with no engine issues.

The Yamis will start every time. Pump the bulb , and use Marine Stabil every time you fill. That is working too.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
Hardee,

I still believe running the engines with the earmuffs attached on the hose is ok to flush the motors. I'm not sure if you have the fuel injected or carbuerated yami 40s but in my experience and recommendation from mechanic is that these motors should be run at least every 2 weeks. My boat sits on the trailer at home and this is exactly what I do so the fuel doesn't just sit in the carb and potentially clog it. The jets are tiny on the carbed Yamis and when you combine that with the ethanol in todays fuel it does clog these carbs.
 
CDory23":1ofimz13 said:
Hardee,

I still believe running the engines with the earmuffs attached on the hose is ok to flush the motors. I'm not sure if you have the fuel injected or carbuerated yami 40s but in my experience and recommendation from mechanic is that these motors should be run at least every 2 weeks. My boat sits on the trailer at home and this is exactly what I do so the fuel doesn't just sit in the carb and potentially clog it. The jets are tiny on the carbed Yamis and when you combine that with the ethanol in todays fuel it does clog these carbs.
Click to expand...
Running on the earmuff is fine as that puts water into the impeller assembly. Running on a hose hooked up to the flushing device - e.g. the fitting on the bottom of the cowling is NOT OK as per the manual.
 
CDory23":2exh0cx2 said:
...in my experience and recommendation from mechanic is that these motors should be run at least every 2 weeks. My boat sits on the trailer at home and this is exactly what I do so the fuel doesn't just sit in the carb and potentially clog it. The jets are tiny on the carbed Yamis and when you combine that with the ethanol in todays fuel it does clog these carbs.
Click to expand...

Another option might be to drain the carbs. I do that on my Yamaha 80 when I'm going to be storing it for more than a week or so, and it's a five-minute job, plus just once lasts for as long as its in storage. No need to drag a hose over either. Anyway, it's an alternative.
 
Another option might be to drain the carbs. I do that on my Yamaha 80 when I'm going to be storing it for more than a week or so, and it's a five-minute job, plus just once lasts for as long as its in storage. No need to drag a hose over either. Anyway, it's an alternative.
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That is what I have always done with my motors seems to work fine.
 
Lost Petrel":36516l1v said:
Another option might be to drain the carbs. I do that on my Yamaha 80 when I'm going to be storing it for more than a week or so, and it's a five-minute job, plus just once lasts for as long as its in storage. No need to drag a hose over either. Anyway, it's an alternative.
Click to expand...

That is what I have always done with my motors seems to work fine.
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I have always drained my carbs too. Then when I connect to the fuel line again I let the bowls flush a bit, getting any residual dregs to drain out.
Works for me.
PS: I don't use any ethanol gas . Also add "stabil" and ring free additives. I also have an external fuel filter/water trap as well
.
 
If you are still trying to determine if you found all the pieces, you could weigh what you found and compare the weight to a new impeller. If you can get your hands on a few to weigh and average if they vary much, that would probably get you closest.
 
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