I solved my A/C airlock problem

H

henrym

New member
I'll admit that this is a bit of a Rube Goldberg rig, but it is inexpensive and IT WORKS!!

Go to Home Depot and in the plumbing section get a 3/4" CPVC Street Elbow and a 3/4" to 1/2" bushing. FYI, a street elbow has both male and female connections, CPVC is the beige colored fittings (for hot water). Get 6' of braided 3/8" ID hose (1/2" OD) and a small bottle of Gorilla Glue.

The outlet for the AC discharge raw water is 7/8". The male end of the Street elbow is 7/8". With 220± grit sandpaper, sand the male end of the street elbow so that it loose enough that it just fits inside the through hull discharge outlet WITHOUT BINDING. Rough up the inside of the female end of the street elbow, male and female ends of the bushing, and ¾" of one end of the outside of the 3/8" hose. Glue the reducer bushing in the street elbow and then put a dab of glue on the hose and the inside of the bushing and press the 3/8" hose into bushing. Let the glue set up before using.

Before you launch your Ranger, insert the male end into the AC raw water discharge outlet and the other end of the hose inside the passenger window, close the window so that it will stop the hose from slipping out. Launch your boat and when ready open the window and give about four rapid suction pulls on the hose, like the way you used to siphon the gas out of someone's tank, the airlock is gone and 110V AC circulator pump is is primed with water. Before you fire up the AC, reach out of the window and wiggle the hose fore and aft a couple of times and the Street Elbow will fall out of the AC raw water discharge outlet.

This may sound complicated, but is very easy. The best part about it is, that it really works without fail....

Henry
 
Henry;
I'm not familiar with the Ranger, but I do have a water cooled a/c unit in
my CD25. My raw water pickup, filter, and pump are below the water
line, as they should be.

The installer of the Marine Air Systems, 12K unit, added directly behind
the sea water pump a small discharge 'T' valve with a small fitting much
like you find on an air hose, pointing into the bilge area. The end
opposite the direct mounting into the filter has the line that procedes to
the a/c condensor core. This has simplified the priming of the water pump
on numerous occasions. The small amount of raw water that 'bleeds' the
system does not warrent any added plumbing, for a sponge takes care of
the 2-4 ozs. that comes out.


I will try to get some pix to better show what I'm trying describe here.
In the meantime I copied the Seawater pump and plumbing configuration
diagrams to my pix under the documentation folder.

Art
 
Henry, I quess I won't need to install the washdown pump & flushing Tee I had planned to correct this problem. Your solution was just too easy and cheap for me to think of. Also, as an added feature the same fitting you described could be used to backflush the AC line and fill with antifreeze at end of the season.
 
On the R-25 with the Cummins engine, you can not see or reach the dinky little A/C raw water filter without first removing the riser to the step and then removing the engine water overflow tank. At that point you can barely see the filter much less reach it. If you want to see what is going on down there, I suggest that you use a small mirror to see the filter that is right next to the inlet side of the pump. I sure wish that Ranger had located the A/C raw water filter & pump location further aft for ease of servicing! The same goes for the fuel filter, but that is another subject...

Henry
 
Filters like that need to be out in the open--that is something which the factory should correct pronto. In my experience Air Conditioning inflow water filters seem to plug up more than any other type.
 
I guess we're lucky, in that we've had no problems with our factory installed air conditioner. We just turn it on and enjoy the great cool air! Sorry you have had problems on your 25. Living in Arizona (where it was 114 degrees today) it's a real luxury to have a cabin cooled to whatever temp you want. Hope all goes well from now on.

On another subject, has anyone used the stretch lines? We bought one for our stern anchor and it's just great. Being able to anchor away from the shore in the evening, then easily pull the shore line in for beaching for puppy runs, etc., has been wonderful.
 
Henry;
For what it is worth I placed a group of pixs in my album of the CD25's
plumbing that resides under the step as you enter the cabin. The
seacocks and bleeder are so noted. I would think that this approach
would be pretty universal, regardless where parts are placed.

After reading thru the notes folks have brought to this thread, I see a
very practicle way to flush my condenser coil. I don't know if I will need a
check valve between the water pump and the 'T' fitting to the bleeder
valve, but that will work itself out easily enough. Do you have any insight
to its necessity?

One thing that I did add to my tool collection was a universal spanner
wrench. I use it now for my fuel and pumpout caps . It also fits the raw
water filter housing so I can clear the strainer. No more need for the gas
cap 'keys' and one for the pumpout.

Art
 
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