On Jay's boat you can see that his pivot plate is flipped around. I immediately flipped mine around also, and thought that would be the solution, but there is something different between his and mine. I still don't really know what it is, but there isn't enough clearance on mine and the tie rod interferes with the hose fittings.
I went back to the bracket idea, and modified it slightly from the original version. I will replace the machine screws with capscrews for the final install.
This is what I ended up with. Seems to be working fine. I hope there is no issue when I tilt one engine. Haven't tried that yet.
Right before we went to the lake today I discovered that the port engine, the one I installed the baystar cylinder on, will not tilt all the way up because the cylinder hits my poly backing plate for the engine bolt (3/4" thick). This baystar install has been a real chore. I thought I would remove or bevel the backing plate to get more clearance, but I'm pretty sure the cylinder will still hit the top of the transom before the engine is up enough for safe trailering. :cry
My boat has wedges installed between the transom and the engine bracket. The wedges are about 1 inch thick on the top, and they are pushing the top of the bracket aft and putting the baystar almost over the top of the transom instead of in front of it. I'm thinking I may pull these wedges out and bevel the backing plate to get the necessary clearance. I believe the wedges are there so the trim/tilt gauge shows neutral when the cav plate is even with the bottom of the hull.
Here is an update. I did pull the wedges and also beveled the backing plate on the port engine. The engine now tilts all the way up for trailering and I have had no issues with the steering and have about 70 hours on the boat since the install. Really happy.