Hydraulic fluid leaking from top of outboard trim cylinder

F

Far West II

New member
I don't see an established thread but that doesn't mean you all haven't covered this topic. Please let me know.

I have hydraulic fluid seeping from the top of the cylinder which raises and lowers my 1996 Honda BF-90. Is there a replacement gasket that can be installed by disconnecting the motor from the top of the piston? It looks like there are (4) screws holding the top of the cylinder on but in my limited experience that does not necessarily mean they are to be removed or if doing so will improve my situation.
 
There is a seal around the rod at the top of the cylinder. It can be replaced. Be sure that there is no corrosion or damage to the rod which goes to the engine housing. If there is growth or dirt on this rod--it can damage the seal.
 
I'll call the shop and ask for the part. From what I can see of the piston when fully exposed is that it is clean and free of growth. I wonder if when I recently hauled out I did not have the motor adequately braced and a hard bounce of the motor blew that seal out.

I appreciate the confirmation and am relieved that this can be fixed. There's no money in the boat budget for a trip to the shop. This won't be the last time I say this but experience is truly something you get right after you need it... unless the Brats have your back. Thanks.

Craig
 
As far as bouncing the motor and blowing the seal, note that we tow the Honda 150 whilst resting on the hydraulic cylinder, and it hasn't blown yet, even coming down I-80.

There is a motor up brace, but the motor doesn't go that far uppen, due to the autopilot feedback pot.

The real purpose of this missive is to list a place wherein one can buy Honda parts. The price is lower than list, and the shipping sure beats driving the 70 miles (RT) to our closest dealer, who then has to order it, etc. etc.:
Honda outboard Parts. I do call them, number at top of page, because they will tell me the latest version of the P/N, after you give the S/N & Frame No. I've even returned parts. Also, the site has both the P/N and an exploded assembly view, which is worth a lot.

Boris
 
Boris- that site is the heat. The exploded views of the entire tilt system make it easy and they sell each individual piece. What's frustrating is that when I called the local shop in Olympia yesterday (before I read your post) I barely got the words out before they told me I had to buy the entire piston assembly to the tune of 400 bones.

I'm willing to do a lot fiddling around with $8.00 O rings before I eat $400.

I think I'm going to disassemble the piston first and inspect the rings. Maybe there is an obvious defect.

Bob, Boris- Thanks for the posts

Craig
 
I had the same problem with a Volvo I/O yrs ago I looked at the piston and the seal .I was told to take fine emery cloth and smooth out the corrosion on the piston .then take j/b weld and make a small portion and fix ,then again sand with fine emery cloth then take a tube of (its for swimming pools) it has silicone and teflon ptfe Its in a small tube it sells for about 4-5bucks at pincha penny stores

Dr Bob or Joe , or whoever might want to chime in. It really seals up those o rings I never had another leak out of that Volvo I/O and was told, that's how it can be fixed without buying the replacement pistons .
 
jennykatz":1vy83kzp said:
I had the same problem with a Volvo I/O yrs ago I looked at the piston and the seal .I was told to take fine emery cloth and smooth out the corrosion on the piston .then take j/b weld and make a small portion and fix ,then again sand with fine emery cloth then take a tube of (its for swimming pools) it has silicone and teflon ptfe Its in a small tube it sells for about 4-5bucks at pincha penny stores

Dr Bob or Joe , or whoever might want to chime in. It really seals up those o rings I never had another leak out of that Volvo I/O and was told, that's how it can be fixed without buying the replacement pistons .
Click to expand...

Jim-

Good Find!

Sounds realistic and practical to me!

It's one of those "fix it for less" solutions that they will only tell you when they replacement parts don't exist or they know you can't afford the whole replacement route.

A lot of similar solutions can be conjured up in specific situations if one is clever and familiar with materials. We had to do a lot of improvising when working with racing sailboats, often is areas without known solutions.

It would be nice to collect a whole bunch of these and publish them in book form. Could actually be done on the internet as a downloadable package, except that someone would probably pirate it and offer it for less on a digital disc on ebay, which is done all the time with shop manuals and the like.

BTW, nice meeting and talking with you at the SBS/SBGT a couple of weeks ago!

Cheers!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Great site for Honda (and other) parts! I agree that if it is just corrosion or damage on the rod, that it can be worked clean with fine emery cloth and filled with JB weld. I keep a couple of tubes of the silicone grease on board, it is good for many items--I also use the "Super Lube with teflon" products. I was told many years ago, that if you leave the outboard up--and use the tilt lock, that you should retract the trim support rods fully retracted for storage.
 
So Jim, not to be redundant but because I'm mechanically declined, did you leave the motor connected to the piston and lift the top off of the cylinder and apply the goo to the seal there? And then it just buttons back up and I'm back to the original problems for which I hauled her out 2 weeks ago?

Craig
 
If one is unfamiliar with the Volvo or mercruiser set it has two cylinders one on each side I found corosion on one of the rams the silver part of the cylinder I used a emery cloth cleaned it up and added J/B weld then emery again then applied the teflon/silicone grease (super lube)I think it's the same as Dr. Bob said ran the drive up and down until no more leaks I hope this works for you .No i did not take cylinder off the motor.

The main reason I did this was Volvo wanted a few hundred for their cylinders v/s merc's 30-40 dollars for a rebuild kit for their cylinders ,I would try this approach first ,then start lookng for parts with a motor that does not run a bone yard
 
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