Honda BF150 overheated, now won't move

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Pacificcoast101

Member
We had just throttled up outside the marina when the starboard motor revved up and the overheating light and alarm sounded. I shut the motor down immediately and checked for kelp or plastic blocking the intake. Everything was clear. After a few minutes, I started the motor but despite the throttle shifting into gear, the propeller wouldn't spin.

We came back in under the power of the other motor. Back in the slip, I found that the propeller will lock while in forward and reverse gears and spin while in neutral, but will not turn with the motor on. There is also no pee stream. I'm going to haul the boat out and replace the impeller but was wondering if the prop not turning is a safety feature in the motor or do I have bigger problems to deal with?
 
I would guess that the hub in the prop has spun and the output shaft turns inside of it when in gear.

That's just my guess, though. I don't think there is any other safety feature to create the conditions you found. The other option would be the splines on the drive shaft stripped but we do not want that to be it.

Sorry I can't do more than guess, and sorry for your troubles. Please keep us posted.
 
Pacificcoast101":9nu5suvh said:
We had just throttled up outside the marina when the starboard motor revved up and the overheating light and alarm sounded. I shut the motor down immediately and checked for kelp or plastic blocking the intake. Everything was clear. After a few minutes, I started the motor but despite the throttle shifting into gear, the propeller wouldn't spin.

We came back in under the power of the other motor. Back in the slip, I found that the propeller will lock while in forward and reverse gears and spin while in neutral, but will not turn with the motor on. There is also no pee stream. I'm going to haul the boat out and replace the impeller but was wondering if the prop not turning is a safety feature in the motor or do I have bigger problems to deal with?
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Or the drive shaft broke where the splines enter the crank shaft.
That would explain no water pump. Been there before :cry
 
Yes, any of the above guesses could do that. If the prop hub is the culprit there could be enough grip left to make it difficult to slip by hand. The same with stripped splines or a broken drive shaft if it is bound internally between the gearbox and the break.

Now that I think about it the water pump not working makes the culprit more likely to be the shaft not being turned by the motor as tsturm said. Whatever it is should become clear when the lower unit is pulled to check the impeller in the water pump.
 
Pacificcoast101":3q7n27du said:
Would that still allow the prop to lock into forward and reverse gears and spin in neutral?
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Yup. I won't say LOCK :wink: But it will be darn hard to turn.
(if you turn your prop hard enough while in gear you can turn the engine over, I would advise against that.)

pull the lower unit off & let us know. Have a great new year!!! :beer :mrgreen:
 
tsturm":e35tey0e said:
Pacificcoast101":e35tey0e said:
Would that still allow the prop to lock into forward and reverse gears and spin in neutral?
Click to expand...

Yup. I won't say LOCK :wink: But it will be darn hard to turn.
(if you turn your prop hard enough while in gear you can turn the engine over, I would advise against that.)

pull the lower unit off & let us know. Have a great new year!!! :beer :mrgreen:
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Drive_shaft_end_at_power_head.jpg
 
Something is wrong with that shear. It's way too clean and perfect. Makes me wonder about a defect in manufacturing. In the photo it actually looks like two, separate machined pieces.
 
localboy":cdluo21z said:
Something is wrong with that shear. It's way too clean and perfect. Makes me wonder about a defect in manufacturing. In the photo it actually looks like two, separate machined pieces.
Click to expand...

Don't know about the Honda, the Yamaha in the pict. has a relief cut where it broke. Worked just like it was designed to & saved the crank. :wink:
 
If you're going to repair the motor, and that's what I'd do, you ought to put in a new one. That shaft broke because of metal fatigue and a used one might be ready to go. A new shaft is $430 which is probably the least of your cost.

Or it's a good time to buy a new motor.

Boris
 
Moxieabs":1k7epuig said:
Any sign of the prop hitting debris? Is th prop SS or aluminum?
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Stainless props. No scratches on them. I had just pushed the throttle up after exiting the harbor. After about thirty seconds the motor began revving really fast. I shifted back to neutral and shut the motor off. I raised it to see if we had hit any kelp or plastic but it was clear. After restarting the motor I found that the prop was not spinning and there was no pee stream. I hoped it was the timing belt, but after pulling the lower unit the shaft was sheared. The new one comes on Monday, so we should be back in the water by the time the high surf calms down.
 
Considering the amount of corrosion on the shaft, I would check the other engine. My understanding is that you did not leave the motor in the water? Maybe anoxic crevice crack corrosion--with manufacture defect?

How many hours? Of course the boat is pushing 12 years of age, but...

Any excess zinc loss?

Of all that could happen, that is probably the cheapest and easiest to repair. The "symptoms" all pointed to a sheared drive shaft.
 
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