Help: Replacing steering wheel

R

Roamad

Member
I want to replace the steering wheel on my ‘83 C-Dory and have a few questions:

- Does my C-Dory have a standard 3/4” tapered steering shaft?
- What sort of steering wheel puller should I use to replace the old wheel?
- Any other tips for removing the old wheel?

I’ve done this job a few times on other boats (and cars) and it’s always difficult. With the current (original) steering wheel, I don’t see a lot of working room for a puller, so I’m sure it will be fun. For one thing, there’s almost no gap between the back of the wheel and the panel it’s mounted to. So…all tips are appreciated!

Here’s what I’m dealing with:

2-B561-FDE-E1-CB-4-A7-A-B094-D5-CFB30-CACC2.jpg[/img]
 
I found an interesting you-tube video that might help you. In addition to what the video suggests, I recommend you also soak the shaft with WD-40, or preheat the wheel around the shaft with a hot gun (hair dryer). That will cause the metal to expand and help loosen the joint. Don't heat the wheel if you use the WD-40 since the latter is highly flammable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDWDp06ap9k
 
-Yes, 3/4 tapered with a key.

- Any puller that work well with your wheel.

- Have a plan for what you will do if you cannot remove the wheel. On my 22 attempting to remove the wheel destroyed the wheel. No amount of hammering, torch or magic sprays would remove it. The puller eventually destroyed the (plastic) wheel. Even when the steering mechanism was removed from the boat, I was still not able to remove the remnants of the steering wheel hub from the shaft. Would not recommend trying to remove a stuck wheel the day before you want to take the boat out. :)
 
Roamad":1y7ozd2m said:
So @WCF, what did you ultimately do when you were unable to remove your wheel???
Click to expand...

Ordered a Baystar hydraulic steering setup.

A very expensive way to install a new wheel :) I am glad it happened, the upgrade was well worth it. I needed the push to do it.
 
Yikes, Ok, well I hope I’m not forced to go that route.

So @WCF, since you destroyed your original wheel, can you share a bit about how it was constructed? And did it look anything like mine in the photo above? Just wondering if you can suggest any internal metal skeleton that would be best to pry against with a puller. Or is it entirely plastic?
 
It did not look exactly the same, but similar. Mine was entirely plastic except for the hub which was metal and had fused onto the shaft. This is why the puller eventually wrecked the wheel; the arms of the puller had nothing solid to work against.

Also for the record, I only tried the puller after I tried the normal hitting the edge of the wheel, heat, potions, prayers, etc.

I am not saying you will have the same problem! I have removed steering wheels from ancient cars and had them fall off in my lap in seconds. :)
 
My boat has a metal destroyer type wheel. I have tried a couple of times to get it off with no luck. I tried to use an auto type wheel puller, but there are no tapped holes for securing the puller to the wheel. A pulley or bearing puller might work. Since I have hydraulic steering I am reluctant to use a lot of force when pulling or banging on it because I don't want to damage the pump unit the wheel is attached to.
 
Three pronged wheel puller. I would put PB blaster on the shaft first around the nut. Do take Tom's suggestion: no torch with WD 40 spray--WD 40 is one of the most common solvents which cases boat fires and human burns. You can heat the hub with a heat gun (still take fire precautions, since there is an open glowing element.). Also shrink the shaft with liquid nitrogen. (Dr ice works well enough).

I would suggest upgrading the steering at this time anyway. The hydraulic is that much better, and you can use a better autopilot if that is in the cards.

Let us know how all of this goes.
 
An auto mechanic friend of mine showed me a trick years ago that has worked on every steering wheel I have ever removed, including my C-Dory. The PB blaster is a good idea, although I prefer Aero-Kroil penatrent.
Loosen the steering wheel retaining nut a few turns but do not remove it. Grasp the wheel firmly with both hands and pull hard while flexing the wheel back and forth. If it does not come at first rotate wheel 1/4 turn and repeat. If it still does not come rotate wheel back to original position and repeat, etc. etc. When the wheel pops loose the nut will stop it from coming all the way off and putting you on your Butt. This has always worked for me and easy enough to try.
 
You have a lot of good pointer above, but I just wanted to add that whatever lubricant you use, Ido like BP Blaster for that kind of situation, give it time to work its way deep in. Little tapping on the shaft with a ball pen hammer to create vibration will help, I will recommend to do this several time over the course of a couple days, or until it come loose.
 
Thanks for all the tips.

@WCF my wheel appears to be just like yours was: all plastic except for the hub itself. So this concerns me. Nothing solid for a puller to grab onto.

I’ll let y’all know how it goes.
 
drbridge":1ergip71 said:
An auto mechanic friend of mine showed me a trick years ago that has worked on every steering wheel I have ever removed, including my C-Dory. The PB blaster is a good idea, although I prefer Aero-Kroil penatrent.
Loosen the steering wheel retaining nut a few turns but do not remove it. Grasp the wheel firmly with both hands and pull hard while flexing the wheel back and forth. If it does not come at first rotate wheel 1/4 turn and repeat. If it still does not come rotate wheel back to original position and repeat, etc. etc. When the wheel pops loose the nut will stop it from coming all the way off and putting you on your Butt. This has always worked for me and easy enough to try.
Click to expand...
:thup :thup :thup
 
Well I was able to get the old wheel off today. Surprisingly easy for a 40-yr-old boat! I didn’t even need a puller. But I did apply all the tricks y’all suggested. A bit of wiggling and then pulling one side at a time seemed to do the trick. The hardest part was getting the nut off as they didn’t give me a lot of surface area for a socket to grab onto. But the right tool combo finally did it. Much relief!!!
 
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