Gunwale / gunnel rail core saturated

J

johnmark76

New member
I added both gunwale and gunnel to help with searches...
Anyway - my 1993 22 had some water intrusion from a poorly installed Bimini bracket that saturated the entire port side gunwale rail. The wood is not rotted.

I was wondering if anyone can answer some questions for me.

1) Am I using the right terminology?

2) I was going to recore that rail - and I wanted to know if anyone has done that before and if there is a 'best technique'. I had drilled holes to verify moisture meter readings and that alone has brought down the moisture level and there is no delamination, so I want to make sure this is not overkill.

I love working on boats, and usually spend hours on you tube, then practice on old core sections I have collected but there is not much on c-dory repair.

On another note - I think it would be cool to setup a c-brats YouTube Chanel just for DIY common repairs, etc.

Thanks![/list]
 
The terms are OK. The issue is trying to record this entire part of the deck. How far does this go from where the screw holes for the Bimini bracket?
Is there plywood, or balsa core?

This is the reason that we always suggest that any hole put into cored structure be lined with epoxy, filled and then a new pilot hole drilled.

To cut out either the top or the bottom of the side deck is going to be a very difficult job. Then to put in a new core, and properly repair this, fill and re-gel coat will be a big under taking.
 
I'm a "known" perfectionist, but I think you are right to consider whether this needs to be repaired (and if so, how extensively). The ultimate would be to remove every bit of damp core, put in new, dry core, and then re-glass. But... either it's a very cramped job (from underneath) or one with a lot of cosmetic work (from above). So....

It sounds like you have some idea how extensive the "wet" is, but ... could you add a photo or drawing to the thread? I am not sure I'm visualizing it exactly right.

If core is wet but NOT de-bonded (in other words, if it is still firmly attached to both the top and bottom skins), then I think you could dry it out and re-fiberglass (depending on how big the holes are, if you just fill them they may re-crack). After all, the gunwale is not a big, wide flat area that is very prone to deflection.

Another thought is how much wet core could you remove by removing a few larger sections of core from the underside of the gunwale? That way you could bond in new core in those areas and then tab new glass to the old (underneath, where it only needs to be tidy).

I have found a few tools make re-coring go a lot easier (and I *always* end up doing it from underneath :amgry). One is a Fein Multimaster (or equivalent). Another is a really thin, flat bladed screwdriver (helps to get the core out). And a vacuum hose secured to the area (so I don't need to hold it up). Of course Tyvek suit, goggles, gloves, etc. Also I do a fair bit of prep/masking work in advance to avoid clean-up later or collateral damage.

Photos would be great if you could add them (even better if they have arrows and circles on them)
 
For removing core from the bottom in confined space, your best bet is gong to be a 1/4" carbide router bit--run by an air die grinder, or an die grinder with flexible shaft in 1/4". We have used this for grinding out blisters as do some of the professionals.

The fein saw (and there are a number of cheaper similar saws now available) would be the best bet if you want to cut out the glass from the top.

Also, If you can totally dry out the core, the easiest course may be to infiltrate it with thin epoxy resin.
 
thataway":1vmhtm7c said:
The fein saw (and there are a number of cheaper similar saws now available) would be the best bet if you want to cut out the glass from the top.
Click to expand...

I've used my Fein Multimaster to do a few re-cores from below, one on a small/cramped 17' sailboat, but granted there are places it may not fit, or where another tool may work better. I can imagine that the under-gunwale space would be very cramped. One idea -- if you determine that major work from below is the way to go -- is to remove the bottom of the gunwale pocket.
 
I don't know, as I have never tried any of the clones. My guess is that they are good or very good, and may have some advantages in things such as cheaper replacement blades. And the initial cost is likely less.

That said, I have been using a Fein Multimaster since the late 1990's (borrowed that one) (then used a boatyard one in the early 2000's) (then bought my own around four years ago) and I have never once regretted the purchase or a penny of what I spent on it. It's a great tool, and I find many, many uses for it (especially on boats), and have a feeling of satisfaction every time I use it. One small example: The cord is very long and is made of supple rubber (or rubber-like at any rate) material.

The newer ones (post-2006-ish) have a tool-free chuck (just flip a lever), and a more positive (star-shaped) mandrel (I mention that in case anyone is looking to buy a used one). I think both are a worthy improvements, although the non-star-shaped mandrel did lend itself better to home-made blades.

I think anyone doing boatwork will get good use out of some sort of multi-tool, whether or not it is the Fein.
 
Saw my first FEIN during extensive house renovation when the pro carpenter used it. I bought a Dremel copycat (satisfied with previous Dremel tools) and had frequent issues with the blade flying off the shaft when the hex screw vibrated loose. Actually felt this was a safety issue so took it back and bought the FEIN and no problems, although more expensive tool and more expensive blades. Get what you pay for!?
 
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