Get~Aweigh Trailer Mis-Hap

T

toyman

New member
Looking thru the photo album for Get~Aweigh, came across this one -
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

My 25 also want to do the same,but I prevent it by cinching the winch REAL tight - then it just kinda pulls the winch mount to the side. What's happening ? I think I need additional bunks under the bow, couldn't tell if the bow on Get~Aweigh is supported differently, or not.

Sorry, haven't figured out how to make links smaller - except like this =

http://tinyurl.com/2eham7o
 
Winch strap tight--and a chain from the bow eye to the trailer, with a turnbuckle. You can do the same with a ratchet strap (which I have on the Caracal)
 
It was rather exciting. That day there was extremely high wind in our part of the flat midwest. I hit a spot where the wind got very strong and I, along with other cars and trucks, really got hammered by some gusts. It didn't last but a few seconds but was very noticeable. I loked in the mirror and that's when I saw the boat had moved. I think the wind actually lifted the bow of the boat up and then dropped it down slightly askew. I had a strap acrosss the stern. I plan to run a strap from the bow eye straight down to the trailer frame in the future.
 
I put a heavy duty folding handle heavy equipment binder chain on my trailer. My front end is not going anywhere so long as the bow eye is in tact. It has an 7100# working load (ie 35500 break strength). Its been there a year and I love it. There's a lot more detail and pictures in my album (trailer mods). Sorry, forgot how to tag a picture in here. I did this after a similar incident. In fact, I got so comfortable with it I eventually went back to my electric winch.

Chris
 
Ya, I have a 3" strap running down from the bow eye, but the arc of the end of the strap is to flat to totally stop any side - side movement. I don't have a bunk under the bow that the strap pulls down against, and I believe that is the problem. As I said earlier, with the winch strap tight (along with the strap down to the frame) the boat stills moves sideways - it just moves the stand along with it.
 
cemiii":11x2s8lu said:
I put a heavy duty folding handle heavy equipment binder chain on my trailer. My front end is not going anywhere so long as the bow eye is in tact. It has an 7100# working load (ie 35500 break strength). Its been there a year and I love it. There's a lot more detail and pictures in my album (trailer mods). Sorry, forgot how to tag a picture in here. I did this after a similar incident. In fact, I got so comfortable with it I eventually went back to my electric winch.

Chris
Click to expand...
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

That looks like it would hold... :wink:
 
Hi,
We use a stainless steel turn buckle about $35.98 short piece of chain and a galvanized shackle. I put and extra piece of 3"x 4"x 1/4 aluminum under the cross member and under the flange of my frame rail for a little extra strength should things go wrong The turnbuckle is rated for 3500 pounds and came from www.marinepartsdepot.com. I thought this would be enough. It's been fine so far it does keep the bow from bouncing. I just loosen the turn buckle and unscrew the pin out of the shackle. It's under trailer mods in my Will-C photo album I don't know how to put pictures with my posts yet. Turnbuckles of any kind seem far superior to straps for at least the bow. I use a a 4" wide rachet style strap over the cockpit area to hold down the rear of the boat which is rated for 8 or 10 thousand pounds. Penna. is known for its rough roads and drivers with severe cranial rectal disfunction. :shock:
D.D.
 
It's also great if you have, or can add, a keel roller up at the front end of the trailer so you have a solid point to tighten your turnbuckle/strap/ratchet against so there is no chance of front end bounce.

All of this is, of course, even more important if you have a roller trailer or bunk slicks.
 
The bow eye should be directly under the bow stop. Directly as in touching it. This helps lock the bow in place so the boat can't get any forward momentum in a stop and shift.
 
In this photo I actually added 2 keel rollers. After adding a cross member underneath up front, I could not find a keel roller tall enough to reach the keel and added a 4x4 piece of PT lumber to get the height needed for a firm synch.

Some of the poor gel coat repairs in the white are still future projects from my incident on a former single axle roller trailer where the boat bounced out of the stop and attempted to run forward into the truck bed, breaking a 2" nylon ratchet strapover over the cockpit like it wasn't there and staightened an S clip on the safety chain. Fortunately a 30 mph incident and not 60.

Someone once told me the physics of force, inertia and momentum and I'm glad I forgot them or I'd scare myself right out of my pants all over again.

I think you can double cilck the photo for full screen.

http://yfrog.com/2rdsc0408rj
 
Has anyone in this group used a "Boat Buddy" on their trailer to hook up their boat? And if so, were you pleased with it? BassPro and Cabella sell them. Bass Pro's site has reviews by customers who love them and some who hate them.
 
The problem I see, is one which causes many complaints. That is when you drive the boat on the trailer, the stern is still floating to some degree, (especially with a boat as heavy as the C Dory--and different ramp inclines will change the attitude of the boat on the trailer as it hits the stop/latch pin. Thus, when the truck pulls the boat out of the water, there is a large load on the Boat Buddy--and it may be difficult or impossible to get the pin out at the next launch/ or bending of the Boat Buddy.

I suspect it would be a good idea for a smaller and lighter boat, when you really can "drive the boat" up on the trailer fully. On all of the larger boats I have owned, the position of the bow eye is considerably different when the boat comes out of the water than when it contacts the front roller/winch post.
 
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