G4 HT chain for windlasses

The diagram shows the proper way...this will result is the least amount of stress when the boat veers. Otherwise the load on the anchor will result in bending or breaking.
Don't forget to secure the pin with seizing wire.
 
Agree with Chris--there are no shackles which will fit thru the chain--and should not. Sometimes it is necessary to use two shackles--U to U:pin thru the chain, and pin thru the anchor stock.

For shorter use of shackles, I use quality electrical ties, rather than monel wire. I had to cut one off today--been on an anchor for several years--and I had to use a serrated knife to cut it. Probably as good as a wire, less likely to cut your hand or finger.
 
Can someone explain what constitutes short link chain?
I measured my quarter inch chain today and links are1.5 inches long.
I'm having trouble hauling up my last 2 ft of anchor,with clutch slipping.
Windlass is maxwell RC 6 and was replaced new when I got it and the rode was on it then ,so I'm not sure what I have, and maybe the reason for slipping. I have adj the clutch already.thanks
 
Generally "Short link" refers to BBB chain. This is what the manual for your windlass calls for. Most of the windlass in this size are for G4 or System 40 chain--Hi Test. These windlass all are calibrated for 1/4" chain (which is the diameter (approximately) of the metal of the link.

The actual link size is not much different--the number of links per foot is 14.0 for BBB and 14.2 for System 40. The actual link measurement is also only slightly different: BBB outside is 1.44", vs 1.39" for G4 or System 40. Coil proof chain is typically longer: Many of the chain manufactures give the inside of the link dimensions, because of difference of the thickness of the steel, but the Proof coil is closer to 1.50" or 9.84 links per foot.

I suspect that you have proof coil chain. (That is what my boat came with, and I took the 100 feet off the boat).

Also the vertical axis windlass is more prone to slipping than is the horizontal axis windlass, because of the geometry.

How much "fall" under the windlass is there at the end of your anchor hoist?
Often this is the problem. There should be at least a foot, and with a vertical axis windlass, it is far better if two feet.

One solution for you is to switch to Brait or any 8 plait line. It stores in about half of the space of what 3 strand stores in. Also switching to G4 or System 40 chain will also improve the handling. (Just takes money!). It is possible that the chain gypsy has become worn from some mismatch of the chain--and that can be contributing to the problem.
 
Thanks Bob ,that's the kind of info I was looking for. I count 12 links per ft, and no visible markings on chain, I'll call Maxwell tomorrow, west marine states no specific link length required , only quarter inch specified.
 
Lay the chain around the gypsy, you should be able to tell if it is fitting. A miss match is evident on the last link you place around the gypsy (a bit harder to see with the vertical axis.
 
I called maxwell tech support today and they said G4 is the stuff to use. They also recommended what u said, lay it in the wheel and see how it fits. Thx
 
The G4 chain is also available at he chain at Defender is Acco G43 1/4" HT for $2.99/ft, so I think I'll get it shipped but I'll feel sorry for the delivery guy!
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Did you check with Fishermen's Supply?
 
20dauntless":399ilsfp said:
Has anyone used this company for an anchor rode?

http://www.secosouth.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=SECO

I need to order a new rode and their prices seem good.

And does anyone know if I can fit 300 ft of 1/2" 8 plait and 50 ft of 1/4" G4 chain in the anchor locker of a 22?
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This is whereI got my rode after a lot of shopping around. Even with shipping to Alaska, the prices were far better than any other I could find. I have about 40' of 1/4" G4 and about 500' of 3/8 8 plait line. It barely fits and I need to manage it coming in, but I really like having the extra rode. I fish and anchor in up to 250' of water, so need the scope.

I will say that I am not really happy with the way any line (8 plait or 3 strand) has worked in my lewmar profish with the properly matched windlass. I've tried it all. I always need to help by pulling the rode, which is a hassle because I mounted the switch at the helm. I need to get a remote control.

I may try to do some kind of wash and soak, etc etc etc, but I've done that many times and it doesn't really help. It just seems like there are "slippery" spots on my line, regardless of what I use, and it just won't grab.
 
Kushtaka":2nqpynzl said:
This is whereI got my rode after a lot of shopping around. Even with shipping to Alaska, the prices were far better than any other I could find. I have about 40' of 1/4" G4 and about 500' of 3/8 8 plait line. It barely fits and I need to manage it coming in, but I really like having the extra rode. I fish and anchor in up to 250' of water, so need the scope.

I will say that I am not really happy with the way any line (8 plait or 3 strand) has worked in my lewmar profish with the properly matched windlass. I've tried it all. I always need to help by pulling the rode, which is a hassle because I mounted the switch at the helm. I need to get a remote control.
.
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That windlass combination gypsy is calibrated for G 4 chain, and 1/2" 3 strand or 8 plait Brait. The 3/8" I would expect to slip and cause issues. There is a wireless remote for your windlass. If you don't have a contractor, then you can add one--and put up down, foot switches on the deck. (If you wish) I would go with the wireless remote.

Some have used UHMWPE materials, similar to Spectra or Dyneema. These can be very small in diameter, with high strength--but no elastic. The 300 feet of nylon would give you some stretch, or using an anchor ball, would also give some give or shock loading. I am not suggesting, but just one other alternative to explore. These are so thin that handing may be an issue.
 
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