Fuel transfer via Racor filter to Dinghy tank and Generator

B

Bob&Alicia

New member
I would like to be able to transfer (siphon) fuel via the Racor spin on filter in the splash well to either refill my generator or dinghy motor. I don't want to carry a spare jerry can for those two when I have 100 gallons in the main tank.

I have read/searched here plus some other sites and can't really find my answers. I tried connecting a spare female connection onto the nipple of the racor filer (outflow) where the main fuel line goes to the Suzuki. I connected this spare barb to some clear hose to a bulb primer like the one that goes to the engine. I then added another piece of hose that was open on the end with the objective using it to fill up the generator tank.

I pumped and pumped the bulb but could not any fuel flow. I was not successful in sticking a hose down the main tank fill and pumping it up either.

Does anybody if there is an easy way to connect to the racor filter to safely remove fuel to fill up another tank? (I read later I should not have used the clear plastic hose but only gas rated hose due to static charges).

Once I figure out how to pump into the generator/dinghy I would like to be able to transfer to my truck to reduce weight while towing. This might be a separate solution.

Thanks
Bob
 
The top of the Racor has 4 ports--two in and two out. I have used the second out port for my fuel polishing system. If the port was free, then the fuel should have flowed. Possible issues, the wrong port? (they are reversed on each side--look at the arrow on the top), The fuel valve in 'off" position. Or an obstruction in the port, or fitting. I once had teflon tape accidentally occlude a port.

The polishing system uses an automotive Walbro pump. (Not marine, because I keep the pump away from the boat with about 10 feet of fuel hose.) If you used an electric pump, it should be ignition protected. Also no way the pump could run when the boat was underway. You can use the primer bulb to pump fuel. I pumped a gallon out on the way home from St. John's so we would have enough fuel in the truck to make it to a "Subway" for lunch!

I used the primer bulb, and undid the clamp to the outboard, and pumped the fuel out thru the line. You could use a hand pump--such as the Par brass hand pump.
Be very careful with static or potential fire hazards...

I prefer to carry a couple of one or two gallon fuel cans. (especially since my dinghy outboard / kicker is 2 stroke.
 
Check the arrow on the primer bulb you used and make sure you had it pointing at the sky when you would squeezing.

It is advantageous if the primer bulb can be positioned in such a way that during priming it can be oriented vertically, with the direction arrow pointing skywards. This will allow gravity and the weight of the fuel inside the primer bulb to help with the operation of the one-way valves. If the primer bulb is oriented with the flow arrow pointing downward at all, gravity and the weight of the fuel in the line above the inlet check valve may prevent proper operation.

I did a connection to the filter manifold on our previous boat with extra line/bulb, and valve but when posed with the same need on our current boat, I wanted less parts and a simpler solution. I wanted to use the hose already there for the outboard but when unplugged from the motor, it closes which is good to prevent spills but bad because I want to get fuel out without touching clamps and such.

I bought another the male fuel fitting like is on the outboard...my honda example

http://www.iboats.com/Fuel-Connector-18 ... _id.369049

Now I simply unplug the fuel hose from the motor, plug in the part I keep handy in a ziplock bag, and use the bulb and line I already have to pump fuel directly into our kicker/dinghy motor.

Check you existing line for length and the reach you need. You could always add a little more line to the fitting if you need more reach.

Simple, no spills, minimal parts, no tools or valves!

Greg
 
Bob, the outflow end of the siphon hose must be open when the bulb is squeezed then sealed as the bulb expands so that the suction generated by this action pulls gas into the intake end and not air back in the output end. If you buy a hose setup for an outboard/portable tank - the fittings at the tank end have a little ball that acts like a one way valve. The other end that normally connects to the motor can be removed to siphon fuel. I do this to empty my portable tanks into my car in the fall.

Regards, Rob
 
Robert H. Wilkinson":1xf26iwa said:
Bob, the outflow end of the siphon hose must be open when the bulb is squeezed then sealed as the bulb expands so that the suction generated by this action pulls gas into the intake end and not air back in the output end. If you buy a hose setup for an outboard/portable tank - the fittings at the tank end have a little ball that acts like a one way valve. The other end that normally connects to the motor can be removed to siphon fuel. I do this to empty my portable tanks into my car in the fall.

Regards, Rob
Click to expand...

You imply that you cannot pump fuel out of the tank, without the terminal fittings which go to the motor?
Not been my experience over many years. The bulbs I use have "valves" in the in and out ends, and work fine to pump fuel out of the tank. It is just slow, because of a low volume in the bulb. Worked fine for me two weeks ago, and many times before.

Maybe you have some bulb without the valves (failure of the bulb is often related to these valves being damaged or failing.

Regards,
 
I had a question about flow with my setup and will share my response here.

The flow is quite fast with the bulb and fills our little quart tank with just a few squeezes (faster than I would have guessed). It is like a pressurized 1/4inch diameter flow.

I just connected my fitting and tested it for siphon (had not tried) and it does pull a slow but steady siphon through the bulb. The rate is quite slow and even when I put another piece of hose on to lower the siphon point, the flow was still slow. So I think you would want to use the bulb or another pumping method to actually drain the tanks in decent time. Different bulbs may vary in that siphon rate of course.

I did not want to carry a gas can on the boat but did want a little extra fuel for longer dinghy excursion insurance. So we have a purpose built 1pt fuel bottle that we can carry for another half tank of range. The little suzuki is easy on fuel anyway.

Greg
 
thataway":r4cirh7e said:
The bulbs I use have "valves" in the in and out ends, and work fine to pump fuel out of the tank.
Click to expand...

This is correct - my bad - its been a few years since I've used the portable tanks. Think I had a brain fart and confused the spring loaded steel ball in the female fitting as the one way valve. The brake bleeder we use at work has a steel ball that moves back and forth in a chamber to act as a one way valve - that's probably what led my thoughts astray! :? :embarrased

Agree the flow is very slow using this method.

Rob
 
Just my 2 cents. I added a "outboard" connection at my filter on the second outlet port. I also have a "spare" fuel line with an electric pump in it. I primarily use this setup for my kicker motor. (Was having problems with it pulling from my main tanks, thus the reason for the electric pump.) With this setup, along with running my kicker, I can also transfer fuel out of my boat tanks. Colby
 
Great advice. I appreciate it. I plugged the fuel line in the port the main engine uses BUT I did not point the primer bulb up. I held it down. I have an old par brass pump and I'll bring it with me as well. Now that I know it's "doable" I'll bring all my parts with me next week. We have a trip planned to the boat.
 
The PAR pump is a good idea. I have an extra line plumbed into the Racor filter outlet and I disconnect the outboard fitting and connect the par pump when I'm bleeding in the filter. I'm sure you could siphon fuel through the pump after you get it started.

I made disconnecting the outboard fitting easier by splicing a 1/4" brass junction into the line. When you disconnect the splice, make sure the hose is warm. I tried it the other morn when it was too stiff and it was a real fight.

When I want to drain the tanks, I stick a length of 3/8 fuel hose down the fill opening and siphon out the gas. It goes into the truck and so far so good for 10 years.

Boris
 
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