Found out something interesting about my TomCat yesterday

T

tparrent

New member
It actually works as a boat! Yup, you can take it out of the slip and cruise around. That was a new experience for me after so many trips to set it up, repair my repairs and figure out how everything works. I even sat at anchor awhile and just enjoyed the day.

Of course that doesn't mean that new questions didn't arise...

1. Swim ladder. After botching the first swim ladder purchase (it doesn't swing down), I decided to take a look at the bracket and figure out how difficult it would be for a klutz like me to actually unbolt it and replace it with whatever I buy next. Imagine my surprise when I opened the transom hatch and found a folding swim ladder in there! Problem solved. However, the compartment under the hatch was also full of water. That puzzled me. Before bailing it out, I wondered if it might empty once I got underway. Sure enough, it did - mostly. How does the water get in there and how does it get out?

2. Speaking of water, one of the fish boxes was full of water too. It was a bit pink so it must have come up the drain which I had winterized. Is this normal? Is there some way to plug the drain so I have dry storage areas? I don't plan to fish and, even if I did, I wouldn't end up catching anything so I have no need for water in the fish boxes.

3. I left the engines down, per instructions from the brain trust here, back when freezing was a possibility. When I pulled them up four weeks later they were all gunk covered. So I was brushing the slime of them and then turned them so I could get to the other side. Had to kind of muscle the wheel to get them to turn. TOTALLY UNRELATED, I later noticed that the engines were not aligned with each other. Hmmm. How difficult is it to realign them? I assume there is some way to release the hydraulic ram and wrestle an engine back to center. Don't you make the mistake of assuming I know what I'm talking about. I'm having the boat hauled out in a few weeks for transport to Vermont for the summer. At that time, I'm going to have some minor upgrades done (rebedding cleats, etc) so the pros could realign the engines unless it is super easy for me to do. Didn't seem to affect performance as I still hit 40+ MPH at one point (and, no, I wasn't just going in a big circle)

4. Still can't get the starboard sliding window to slide. Tried washing out the track and wiggling the window as much as possible (which wasn't much). Well and firmly stuck. I was going to go after the track with a toothbrush but the open sea and sunny skies beckoned. Not sure cleaning the track is going to help much either as I can't move the window at all. The latch is free so it's not that . Just solidly stuck.

Three months into the ownership experience, there is only one thing I would change about the boat. I'd have the architects figure out how to make a single windshield instead of three pieces. Those supports hamper visibility a bit.

Getting ready for a multi-day trip around Cape Lookout, the Pamlico and the Albermarle in a couple weeks. The the haulout and trip north. I've actually thought about just taking it north myself but don't know how long that would take. I figure maybe a week to New York making some serious miles each day. I could leave it there for a bit and then take a more leisurely week to get it up to Burlington in mid May when the canals open. Having someone trailer it is certainly easier but where's the adventure in that?
 
I get water in my fish lockers when it rains or when I wash down the deck. After I finish, I pump them out before turning off the house battery.

On my Tomcat, there is a toggle switch above the battery switch in the rear starboard hatch. I have to reach up to find it. It closes the hydraulic line to the starboard motor. I close it, manually adjust the starboard motor until it aligns with the port, then open the switch again. I didn't know about the switch until I had to replace one of the rams.

When you have the motors up, it's harder to turn the wheel. Next time, clean one side of the motors, lower them, turn the wheel, and then raise them.
 
Well you inspired me to look in all compartments today too. No swim step for me. But, I did find my flares have expired.....again.....I think I will just write in a new date with a sharpie on my brand new not even out of the package, no question in my will work perfectly under 10 feet of water, inside of a cyclone, next to a black hole in outer space, flares that for some reason have an expiration date shorter than the 2 dozen eggs in my fridge! Stupid flares!
 
My former mechanic tried to straighten the motors out after replacing the ram. He had to call the manufacturer who told him about that valve. I had the boat for over nine years by then.
 
To align the outboards I turn them to one side then tilt them way up and turn the control valve for a second or two. Whichever motor is out of alignment will fall to the same angle as the other and you need only close the valve.

My control valve is above the starboard rear battery.
 
Well you inspired me to look in all compartments today too. No swim step for me. But, I did find my flares have expired.....again.....I think I will just write in a new date with a sharpie on my brand new not even out of the package, no question in my will work perfectly under 10 feet of water, inside of a cyclone, next to a black hole in outer space, flares that for some reason have an expiration date shorter than the 2 dozen eggs in my fridge! Stupid flares!
Click to expand...


I had a bunch of old flares so I decided to try them out. some where 5 years old or more One was 10. all of them worked just fine. dont toss them but do get new ones for inspections.
 
starcrafttom":1zno2rcm said:
Well you inspired me to look in all compartments today too. No swim step for me. But, I did find my flares have expired.....again.....I think I will just write in a new date with a sharpie on my brand new not even out of the package, no question in my will work perfectly under 10 feet of water, inside of a cyclone, next to a black hole in outer space, flares that for some reason have an expiration date shorter than the 2 dozen eggs in my fridge! Stupid flares!
Click to expand...


I had a bunch of old flares so I decided to try them out. some where 5 years old or more One was 10. all of them worked just fine. dont toss them but do get new ones for inspections.
Click to expand...

If I understand the C/G regs correctly you only need the required # of current flares stored with gun and close to hand. Expired flares can be kept and used but must be clearly marked/labelled as expired. I use a sharpie to write Xpired on each one and store in a separate zip lock bag.

Rob
 
Yep I keep the old ones is a bag and stored. but if I need them they are there.

As a side note I keep small pop up flares in my vest also. That way as I move to boat to boat or to kayak I always have one on me. Carry them when duck hunting too. Might cold in the winter in that water.
 
Tom,
Re your issues,

Your dive ladder mount looks like a Pactrade
1E4CF4D0_FB08_49B4_AA13_7828AB1A31C4.jpg

Here’s one on Ebay, though this link may go away…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Trans ... 1196.m2219

And a 3 step telescoping ladder for it…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Stainless ... 1196.m2219

I hope you can store it in the mount ‘upside down’ ie upright when underway so a man overboard can self board from the water by reversing the ladder to the down position.

It’s always my starboard sponson that collects the most water. All the freshwater plumbing (except the tank) is starboard under the sponson access plate under the galley sink. All the water line connections seem to be incompatible jury-rigged affairs. My last freshwater pump leak was almost 3 weeks ago. All water from all sources (railing mounts, rub rails, etc) ends up in the sponson bilges. Because of the slight ‘V’ at the aft bottom of the sponson, the factory can not drill a hole at the very bottom for the drain plug, so that allows about ¾” of water to collect. Also, float switches don’t cycle until water is over 1 to 1.5 inches deep. That’s a lot of water spread out over 20 feet long by 6 inches wide by 1.5 inches deep. When you got up on plane, that shallow lake sluiced aft, cycling the bilge pump (though you wouldn’t see that).

Should you decide to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on engine alignment, they are at the top of page 11…

http://www.boatsteer.com/assets/LiquidTieBar.pdf

The valve is ‘off’ pointing down, either 3 o’clock or 9 o’clock opens the valve.

I’ll also try BTDT’s method, except the engines are backed up to a fence right now.

Even when the engines look mis-aligned, it has not affected performance. Every 3 years or so I get the dealer to change out the hydraulic oil. This is much easier with a shop bleeder pump and more tech knowledge than I have.

Rain water prefers to travel into the fish boxes rather than through the aft scuppers (which have a rubber flapper valve). The fish boxes are plumbed to Jabsco macerator pumps, then up 18 inches to the overboard through hull outlets. That’s why the fish boxes fill with rain water; it can’t get past the Jabsco impeller when it’s OFF (and you do not want to be watching it 24/7 to see when it needs to be emptied).

If you dunk your head down the transom access hatch you’ll see where the fish box plumbing exits the fish box and enters your macerator pump. Remove the fish box hose from the pump ( this will most likely require a new utility knife blade and heat or a hair dryer). Drop that hose end into the bilge, and the fish box will always drain into the bilge, to be automatically emptied by the auto bilge pumps. This mod can be easily reversed by you or a future buyer. Rain and wash water will still enter the fishboxes, but you won’t have standing water in there any more. Don’t store your laptop there.

Remove the Jabsco macerator fish box pumps and save them for your next buyer, you won’t need them.

4. From the dock, pour some HOT water down over the lower window guide from your thermos container. Try using a small pry bar to pull the AFT section of the recalcitrant window BACK from the outside on your finger pier.

Yes, the wide front window mullions impede your field of view and you must move your head around when piloting.

Your trip north involves some big water areas where you could be weathered out for days. Seems a shame to ‘rush’ through the Chesapeake, we spent 6 weeks on just the northern portions. You might consider having the boat hauled to a marina on the Hudson with a ramp and put in there to wait for you. (Not all boat haulers would do that for you, but many are also experienced boaters). That would decrease your bad/rough weather risks. We’ve used Neighbor.com to find cheap private trailer + rig storage options.

May 21 is the latest projected NY Canals opening date. You’d have the Troy ‘federal’ plus 11 Champlain canal locks to get to the lake. An extra cleat in the forward cockpit is very helpful to secure your bow and aft lines after you pass them behind the floating bollards, cables or ropes, especially if you are solo. You’re not cleating off your lines, just getting mechanical advantage. Throw a single half hitch while you go start the engines. An 8” Schafer (two bolt) SS cleat backed by fender washers and mounted as in pic allows the fish box lids to stay up and seldom snags clothing. If you’re solo, you’ll really benefit from them; in fact I can’t imagine how else you’d secure your lines when you need to get to the helm to cut/start engines. If not solo, have two boat hooks. Keep a Handheld VHF when aft with you so you have comm with the lockmaster.

DSC04330.jpg

We want to do the Norfolk/dismal swamp loop, have you and would 4-5 days be enough? (no wake entire Dismal Swamp canal).

It’s going to be a great Adventure, no matter how you do it!

PS did you ever get that anchor light to work?

Cheers!

John
 
I've been off working hard for the past few weeks so just now finally got back ti important things like reading C Brats. Thanks for all the info.

I decided a couple weeks ago that having the boat hauled all the way to Vermont would bypass way too much scenery and adventure so I plan to have it launched in Jersey City and take it the rest of the way myself. Should be a nice trip up the Hudson and the canal.

I thought long and hard about how to singlehand through the locks before realizing I had an unused piece of equipment that should help - a 14 year old son! At first he wasn't thrilled with the idea but I convinced him with onboard wifi and two days of skipping school.

I like the idea of rerouting the fish box drain hoses. I'm not going to fish (and if I was, I likely wouldn't catch anything anyways) and could use the extra semi-dry storage space for docklines and boating bits. I have a full enclosure so I doubt much rainwater will get in.

I really need to get those windows open. Hot water seems like a good first try.

I have not cruised the Dismal Swamp yet. However, I am headed to the boat tomorrow for five days of local cruising. Not sure where I will go but the weather looks perfect for the week so I may be able to complete most of the Albemarle Loop. The current plan is to have no plan.
 
Reference opening your windows. I'm sure you already know this but on my Tomcat I have to push my sliding window forward before depressing the latch and than pulling the window back :roll:
 
T.R. Bauer":1ka2dgkr said:
Well you inspired me to look in all compartments today too. No swim step for me. But, I did find my flares have expired.....again.....I think I will just write in a new date with a sharpie on my brand new not even out of the package, no question in my will work perfectly under 10 feet of water, inside of a cyclone, next to a black hole in outer space, flares that for some reason have an expiration date shorter than the 2 dozen eggs in my fridge! Stupid flares!
Click to expand...

If your in Homer this spring / summer & get boarded by the coasties they will hand check your flayers to make sure you have 3 that aren't expired. :wink: :thup
 
Tom,

Before you enter Lake Champlain (either NY or Vermont), state laws require you to remove the section of flexible white sewage hose between the macerator overboard discharge pump and the overboard discharge thru-hull on the side of the boat. All this to prove you’re not dumping sewage into Lake Champlain.

On my boat, this was a real pain due to tight access, ancient solidified connections, sharp turns and the contents of the hose itself, which was full of (surprise)! In addition to your mallet, you’ll need a hairdryer, new utility blades x 6, a headlamp, a drill, a large pipe wrench, many tools you don’t have on the boat, Clorox, lots of wipes, two days and 4 beers. And more Clorox wipes. Around 500-800 should be enough.

Order a new length of the best sanitation hose you can find, you won’t be able to re-use it. I have a section extra if you want it free.

If we had one, we would agree that this is a job for a nimble 14 year old son.

This C-Brats site has a ‘Poll’ option which I have not seen used in many years. Perhaps we could take a ‘poll’ on whether your son should take on this mission. Talk about pressure! He needs to learn about the nuances of boat ownership.

After that, he’ll find disconnecting the fishbox plumbing at the fishbox macerators a piece of cake.

Sign up for NY Canals notices to mariners at

https://www.canals.ny.gov/

Be aware NY state currently requires a neg Covid test and 10 days quarantine on entry, though Brats say it’s only enforced for air travel.

During our conversations with local boaters when on Lake Champlain, they implied that law enforcement did not regard themselves as ‘pottie police’, but that one would go boat to boat at some popular crowded areas on weekends inspecting and writing citations.

I’d suggest your best option is to get this taken care of long before your May Lake Champlain cruise.

Happy Plumbing Adventures!
John
 
Back
Top