Has anyone experienced any problems with the forward bulkhead on 22' C-Dory Cruiser separating from the hull? Mine is a 2004 model and the bulkhead was bolted to the hull with some type of SS pins that were capped off with wider headed snap-on type fitting. Not very rugged looking. All of these have come loose and bulkhead is loose. I have tried to replace the snap on fittings with more rugged fittings, but the problem is that the pins don't extend through the holes in the bulkhead enough to get a good bite on them. I am thinking of fiber glassing the bulkhead to the top of the hull in the berth, but am unsure if this area should be rigid or needs to have a little play in it. Strangest thing I have ever seen.
Forward Bulkhead Problems
- Thread starter C-Dog
- Start date
I assume (bad idea) that you mean the bulkhead between the V berth and the helm/between the V berth and port side, aft facing dinette seat.
This bulkhead is non structural, and can actually be removed. A number of boats have removed this on the port side. Of course you have to have the console for steering, wiring etc--plus the "dash" under the windshield.
These are bolted into the platform under the V berth, and then pop rivets to the top. You can replace pop rivets--use longer or larger ones. You can put bolts, you can use Molly Bolts (SS are advised) for the bottom, if that is necessary. I would not glass this into the hull. There are several reasons not to do this.
Maybe a photo of what is the area of concern would help.
The forward bulkhead which is the aft part of the anchor locker, is glassed into the hull. If it is loose, then I suspect there may be some structural issues. I have also seen some boats where they have been driven too hard into chop, and the tabbing between the top of the V berth platform and the hull, has broken down. This also should be replaced.
This bulkhead is non structural, and can actually be removed. A number of boats have removed this on the port side. Of course you have to have the console for steering, wiring etc--plus the "dash" under the windshield.
These are bolted into the platform under the V berth, and then pop rivets to the top. You can replace pop rivets--use longer or larger ones. You can put bolts, you can use Molly Bolts (SS are advised) for the bottom, if that is necessary. I would not glass this into the hull. There are several reasons not to do this.
Maybe a photo of what is the area of concern would help.
The forward bulkhead which is the aft part of the anchor locker, is glassed into the hull. If it is loose, then I suspect there may be some structural issues. I have also seen some boats where they have been driven too hard into chop, and the tabbing between the top of the V berth platform and the hull, has broken down. This also should be replaced.
Are you speaking of the bulkhead that has the steering wheel mounted on it (and is on port side too of course)? If so, this is, to my knowledge, only mildly (if even that) structural. On my boat it is fastened mostly with big aluminum rivets and caulking. If I remember correctly, there may be some "bolt type" fasteners along the bottom edge running athwartships.
Some of the rivets still have their mandrels in them -- are these the pins you speak of? Any chance you could post photo(s)?
Some of the rivets still have their mandrels in them -- are these the pins you speak of? Any chance you could post photo(s)?
Here is a photo of the pop rivets which hold the "dash" part of the port side of bulkhead between V berth and port aft facing dinette seat:
Is this what you are referring to?
If so, drill out this pop rivet and put in a larger one. You can also glass epoxy this joint, fit small bolts to hold it in place etc. Nothing structural here. This is between the deck mold (not the hull) and this bulkhead mold.
Is this what you are referring to?
If so, drill out this pop rivet and put in a larger one. You can also glass epoxy this joint, fit small bolts to hold it in place etc. Nothing structural here. This is between the deck mold (not the hull) and this bulkhead mold.
PaulNBriannaLynn
New member
I had forgotten all abou this until i saw your photo Bob... Earlier this spring, on one of the first hot days we had, I was inside the cabin cleaning things up when i heard something drop onto the floor of the boat. It was one of these rivets that had come apart from the bulkhead. At the time I thought it was weird, but that it didnt look structural, so I never did anything to replace it. This must be a somewhat common issue in this era of c-dorys.
Thanks for the replies. The bulkhead and dash between the steering/dining area and the v-berth is exactly the area I was referring to. Being new to the C-Dory, I did not realize this bulkhead was bolted. I never noticed that the rivets were missing until it was too late. There were only 2 rivets holding it in place and I hit a hard chop and those 2 dropped off. My grand-daughter was in the v-berth when it happened and saw them drop. She had to hold the bulkhead in place until we got back to the dock. My problem is that the bulkhead moved out of place and I can't get the bolts back into position to replace the pop rivets. I had not thought about drilling the hole bigger, so that is a good option to try. I thought the boat was in excellent condition, but I have spent the last few days going over every screw/bolt and almost all were loose. Previous owner obviously never performed maintenance and I have been in such a hurry to enjoy her that I haven't done a good job either. In my defense, she has mostly been in the shop since I got her. :teeth
If there were 3/16" diameter pop Rivets in place, previously, then you want to put in 1/4" diameter pop rivets at this time.
You do not want to "over drill" the hole size.
Generally if the pop rivets are failing, then there is a chance that the boat was driven too hard in a chop. Generally tabbing, bolts and pop rivets are what will fail. It is hard to actually damage the hulls. Loose bolts and screws are not unusual, but certainly need to be addressed.
Notice that this bulkhead does not contact the hull sides. I am not sure what backs the bolts which are down below into the bunk molding. Those who have taken the foam out of the area under the bunk to make storage will have a better handle on if there is a backing plate, lock washers, nyulox nuts etc.
You do not want to "over drill" the hole size.
Generally if the pop rivets are failing, then there is a chance that the boat was driven too hard in a chop. Generally tabbing, bolts and pop rivets are what will fail. It is hard to actually damage the hulls. Loose bolts and screws are not unusual, but certainly need to be addressed.
Notice that this bulkhead does not contact the hull sides. I am not sure what backs the bolts which are down below into the bunk molding. Those who have taken the foam out of the area under the bunk to make storage will have a better handle on if there is a backing plate, lock washers, nyulox nuts etc.
bob when you were saying the tabbing at the entrance of the v-berth starts to fail from being driven too hard into the chop where is this tab?
I am only asking as there is a small (call it a crack or split) coming from the base of the port bulk head (the one most remove) extending on the seam going across towards the starboard about three inches where one enters the V-berth, it has very very slowly getting a bit bigger. when i pointed it out to my other fishing partner he said he would just fill it with 4200.
not to hijack was just curious if this is just cosmetic or if it could be structural
I am only asking as there is a small (call it a crack or split) coming from the base of the port bulk head (the one most remove) extending on the seam going across towards the starboard about three inches where one enters the V-berth, it has very very slowly getting a bit bigger. when i pointed it out to my other fishing partner he said he would just fill it with 4200.
not to hijack was just curious if this is just cosmetic or if it could be structural
C-Dog":3bc1xbsn said:
A thought: Are you trying to do this on the trailer? If so, just know that sometimes a trailer can slightly "change the normally relaxed shape" of a boat (this is normal, as long as it is not dramatic). For example, to do the final shaft alignment on a "big" boat, you wait to launch it so it can assume its "final" shape. What I'm getting at is that if you've been trying to get things lined up on the trailer, you might instead try doing it afloat. Or if that's not possible, then play with jacking up the trailer juuuust slightly here or there to get things to line up.
Generally, pop rivets are installed because they are fast and easy in a production setting, not necessarily because they are the best for every job. So you might consider going back in with machine screws or etc. (Not that there would be anything wrong with rivets in this case, but I just mean they are not sacred; I'd probably use machine screws, myself.)
Sunbeam