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forward berth space
- Thread starter C-Slug
- Start date
Many of us on the Forum have done that including me. Some have foam, some don't. Mine did, and was a bit of pain to remove but eventually all came out. I believe some people have used a hot knife. Use the search engine to find other threads but here is a start. Usually if you see black plugs in that area you have foam, that was the access port to spray it. If you don't your probably good, but won't know until you cut into it.
It is one of the best upgrades I have done to the boat. Provides so much more storage!
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... es+storage
It is one of the best upgrades I have done to the boat. Provides so much more storage!
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... es+storage
I also remember at least one boat that had their water tank moved up into the bow.
This allowed the area under the rear dinette seat to be turned into storage, and moved some of the weight forward to hold the bow down and cut through waves and chop.
You could also move the house batteries up there providing you used Gel Cell or Gas Mat batteries that don't emit explosive gases. Nix on an extra gas tank for the obvious safety reasons(!) :lol:
Joe. :teeth :thup
This allowed the area under the rear dinette seat to be turned into storage, and moved some of the weight forward to hold the bow down and cut through waves and chop.
You could also move the house batteries up there providing you used Gel Cell or Gas Mat batteries that don't emit explosive gases. Nix on an extra gas tank for the obvious safety reasons(!) :lol:
Joe. :teeth :thup
There was a thread and discussion a few years ago. Question was the foam required. Answer by someone more knowledgeable than I is that that foam is required for smaller boats but not as you get larger like for a 22' size boat. Foam does not affect strength. Having it gone does a lot for storage.
I ended up cutting 5 ports, two on the vertical face in front of the potty and 3 in from the top: one on each side under the center of each berth and 1 in the center front. For most access to storage the two vertical hatches are used.
I needed access to mount a water tank in the center front. Fitting in a tank was a problem and 14 gallons was as large as I could fit in place. Due to the outlet on the side not all the tank is usable. If I'm going to be out longer and need more water I carry one of those green 6 gallon water cans. The new water tank if filled from the same fill port but the hose is routed to the tank in front. Then a small pump to the sink with an "on demand" valve. We use about 3 gallons per day for the two of us so I plan on - count on just 10 gallons from the main tank which gives us a good three days and two more days with the reserve can.
The only performance change I've noticed is that "before" the boat "sweet spot" at speed is about 17 kts and that took 80% trim tab. After moving the water up front the speed "sweet spot" is the same but only need 60% trim tab. At hull speed (6 kts) I can not detect any difference. Note that when we are out for longer trips we end up with a lot of can goods up front which also holds the bow down. That points out the one big danger to having the "extra" storage is you fill it up and that adds weight which really affects performance. As we spend most of our time at hull speed I'm willing to make that trade-off.
Chuck
I ended up cutting 5 ports, two on the vertical face in front of the potty and 3 in from the top: one on each side under the center of each berth and 1 in the center front. For most access to storage the two vertical hatches are used.
I needed access to mount a water tank in the center front. Fitting in a tank was a problem and 14 gallons was as large as I could fit in place. Due to the outlet on the side not all the tank is usable. If I'm going to be out longer and need more water I carry one of those green 6 gallon water cans. The new water tank if filled from the same fill port but the hose is routed to the tank in front. Then a small pump to the sink with an "on demand" valve. We use about 3 gallons per day for the two of us so I plan on - count on just 10 gallons from the main tank which gives us a good three days and two more days with the reserve can.
The only performance change I've noticed is that "before" the boat "sweet spot" at speed is about 17 kts and that took 80% trim tab. After moving the water up front the speed "sweet spot" is the same but only need 60% trim tab. At hull speed (6 kts) I can not detect any difference. Note that when we are out for longer trips we end up with a lot of can goods up front which also holds the bow down. That points out the one big danger to having the "extra" storage is you fill it up and that adds weight which really affects performance. As we spend most of our time at hull speed I'm willing to make that trade-off.
Chuck
My 22 had factory installed hatches for compartments under the v-berth. The front hatch was a large size, but the side compartments had small hatches. I replaced the side hatches with larger ones.
The compartments had poor coatings. It seemed like get coat that wasn't fully cured (even after 5+ years). The coating would transfer to things stored in the compartments. I ended up just painting over it with latex house paint which solved the problem.
I took out the water tank in the cabin with the intention of putting one in the bow. I'll probably still do this, but for our use we find that we don't really miss the water tank. We just carry a couple of 1 gallon jugs and refill them as necessary.
There is a CG requirement that boats under a certain size remain afloat even when swamped. The limit is something like 12 or 16', I can't remember. Most (all?) of the C-Dorys are exempt from this requirement.
The compartments had poor coatings. It seemed like get coat that wasn't fully cured (even after 5+ years). The coating would transfer to things stored in the compartments. I ended up just painting over it with latex house paint which solved the problem.
I took out the water tank in the cabin with the intention of putting one in the bow. I'll probably still do this, but for our use we find that we don't really miss the water tank. We just carry a couple of 1 gallon jugs and refill them as necessary.
There is a CG requirement that boats under a certain size remain afloat even when swamped. The limit is something like 12 or 16', I can't remember. Most (all?) of the C-Dorys are exempt from this requirement.
ssobol":3ackeoqv said:There is a CG requirement that boats under a certain size remain afloat even when swamped. The limit is something like 12 or 16', I can't remember. Most (all?) of the C-Dorys are exempt from this requirement.
USCG says <20' has to leave the factory with flotation.
Whatever you do with your boat once it leaves the dealer is your business. :wink:
Robert H. Wilkinson
New member
ssobol":1h5o0lvp said:There is a CG requirement that boats under a certain size remain afloat even when swamped.
The regulations require any monohull boat 20' and less that will hold 2 people or more to float level if swamped. This regulation will encompass any of the Cdory's up to and including the 19. http://www.rhhfoamsystems.com/marine.php - this is one link to some info on the subject.
Personally I do not advocate the removal of foam unless it is waterlogged. It serves multiple purposes.
Regards,
Rob
Robert H. Wilkinson":2qjrqzt6 said:ssobol":2qjrqzt6 said:There is a CG requirement that boats under a certain size remain afloat even when swamped.
The regulations require any monohull boat 20' and less that will hold 2 people or more to float level if swamped. This regulation will encompass any of the Cdory's up to and including the 19. http://www.rhhfoamsystems.com/marine.php - this is one link to some info on the subject.
Personally I do not advocate the removal of foam unless it is waterlogged. It serves multiple purposes.
Regards,
Rob
Later 22 boats (after '07) don't come with foam installed by the factory. The factory also installed hatches to access the space under the berth for storage. My assumption would be that the if the factory decided that the foam was unnecessary, then it should be ok to remove it.
PaulNBriannaLynn
New member
I'm planning to do this over the winter and shopping for hatches. Those that have done it, is it better to mount the hatches vertically down where the porta-potty sits, or mounted flat on top below the birth foam?
IMO, it is better to open the compartments from the top. Not only is the more elbow room to get stuff in and out, if open the sides, stuff will tend to fall out when you open the hatch (our compartments can be quite full).
Because my compartments had hatches from the factory, I enlarged the cutouts and put in larger lower profile hatches. They just lay in place because it is easier to access the compartments by sliding the hatch out of the way under the v-berth mattress than opening it on the hinge. Some people who cut their own hatches use the cutout piece for the cover by installing a lip around the edge of the cutout. There are numerous examples in the photo section of this site.
Because my compartments had hatches from the factory, I enlarged the cutouts and put in larger lower profile hatches. They just lay in place because it is easier to access the compartments by sliding the hatch out of the way under the v-berth mattress than opening it on the hinge. Some people who cut their own hatches use the cutout piece for the cover by installing a lip around the edge of the cutout. There are numerous examples in the photo section of this site.
Marco Flamingo
Active member
I cut the berth platform and used the cutout piece for the hatch. Two things I'd do different. I cut a single hole in the middle. For me, it would have been better to cut two holes on each side of center. Easier access without having to move all of the bedding. I also learned that the piece of plywood that is cut out is really heavy and clunky for use as the hatch cover. I replaced it with AZEC plastic wood. If I did it over again, I would just use a piece of AZEC (10" wide) as my pattern. A 10 x 18" hatch is big enough for anything that I'd store.
No hinges or anything. I just used a stick of aluminum (1" x 1/8") from my "junk" pile, countersunk some screw holes down one side and put it on with a 1/4" overlap from the hatch to the berth. I can't stand on the hatch, so that's plenty of support. Drill a finger hole and the project is done.
On the 16, the area under the berth can get wet in rough conditions. I have three dishwashing tubs under the V berth hatch that keep things out of the bilge water. I can store a week's worth of food and water for 2 people.
Mark
No hinges or anything. I just used a stick of aluminum (1" x 1/8") from my "junk" pile, countersunk some screw holes down one side and put it on with a 1/4" overlap from the hatch to the berth. I can't stand on the hatch, so that's plenty of support. Drill a finger hole and the project is done.
On the 16, the area under the berth can get wet in rough conditions. I have three dishwashing tubs under the V berth hatch that keep things out of the bilge water. I can store a week's worth of food and water for 2 people.
Mark