Ford's "Tow/Haul Mode"

C

Casey

New member
We have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4L engine and a 3.73 axle ratio.

Because we're preparing to tow the (empty) trailer back to NY to retrieve "Dessert 1st," we wanted to have the transmission and trailer checked prior to departure.

When I got the truck to the NAPA shop I asked the Mgr (Doug, who I've had very good experience with previously...) about the truck's "tow/haul" mode. I've ALWAYS used tow/haul when towing the boat. Doug reported that in his opinion, towing 6000# with our rig, he felt the tow/haul mode wasn't necessary. Interesting. Doug then suggested that we ask the same question to another customer sitting in the waiting room....

It turns-out this man was a recently retired Ford Motor Company transmission engineer. He confirmed what Doug said. The man tows a 30-foot trailer with his Ford SUV, and seldom uses the tow/haul feature. He replied "...the only time I use it is in mountains...." We discussed a few other related items, and I came away with a better understanding; now we'll hope they're correct! He asked me how often I had the transmission serviced, and I told him "every 30-35K miles." He suggested that every 60-70K miles was sufficient. He also suggested having the transmission serviced at a place that uses the transfusion-type machine versus the older drop-the-pan technique. Evidently that permits an almost complete (ie 99% fluid exchange) versus about 50% exchange using the pan method. With the flusher technique you use more fluid - but get a more complete fluid exchange.

The one item I forgot to ask was "what about any filters in the transmission? How do they get changed? (I plan to call Doug today to ask him.)

The rest of the NAPA trailer work went fine; but was expn$ive. We ended up needing all new bearing kits, all new disc brake pads, one new caliper, and a new master cylinder(!). (I watched and inspected the entire process, and Yes, everything was necessary. Although the overall cost took my breath away; we're Very glad it all got done. Without it we would have surely had a roadside breakdown (or worse).

Now we should be in good shape to head North in the next few days.

Best,
Casey&Mary
 
The service manager at the GMC dealer where we bought our truck gave me this advice regarding the tow/haul mode:

If the transmission isn't "hunting" (having to constantly shift up and down), you don't need to use tow/haul. When towing a heavy load, use the tow/haul in manual and the shift button on the stalk to control your up and down shifts. When coming to a stop with a heavy load, use tow/haul and manually downshift - it will save your brakes. Have the transmission serviced every 50,000 miles or so.

This is with a Duramax with the Allison transmission (I am a big fan). That info has served us well, since that truck (bought new when we ordered Wild Blue) has over 160,000 miles on it; most of those miles towing (boat or 5th wheel).

For the record, the driving/towing was more pleasant with the boat on the trailer vs just an empty trailer. I've heard of people lowering tire pressure when towing an empty trailer, but never tried that.

Good luck with the "reunion" trip (getting the boat and trailer back together).

Jim
 
I love the tow-haul mode on Ford's transmissions when towing boats and other stuff. I'd use it as it increases driver confidence and comfort while towing - especially down hills. The engineer is probably right, the transmission probably doesn't need it with only 6,000 pounds back there....However, the sales department did because James's Allison has tow mode.....LOL.....
 
Casey, a timely thread, thanks!

I haven't pulled the boat with the new F350, but I can tell you that pulling a travel trailer is really nice when using tow haul. In particular, when descending. I use it all the time with the 7,500 pound Airstream, and I use it empty or loaded, any time we start down a mountain pass.

My only worry is related to the boat trailer surge brakes, and possibly overheating them using engine braking. What's the experience of others?
 
Here's Doug's response RE transmission filter(s):

The F150 doesn't have filters per SE. That transmission (only) has a "screen" inside, and the screen generally doesn't need to be cleaned until about 100-120K miles.

The F250 and F350 are different. They DO have filters (1 inline and two inside the transmission if I recall correctly) and they do need to be replaced occasionally. I didn't ask him about frequency of service on the F250/F350 rigs.

I agree about the tow/haul being useful when loaded and going downhill.

We've never had any problem with surge brakes, downhill or other times. I would say the main thing is to check them frequently. You should be able to feel it they're braking too frequently (you'll feel a 'drag if/when you're not braking). If you feel that, you may want to have them checked.

Jim, thanks about the comment RE decreasing tire pressure somewhat when unloaded; I'll try that and report back. We have towed "loaded" for tens of thousands of miles ... But this will be the first time we've towed an empty trailer 1300 miles. Should be interesting.

I'm at McD's using their Wifi (I've nearly blown through my Verizon 4GB allotment for the month and still have five days until it renews. Mary's playing "pickleball." We're just getting back to The Villages lifestyle ... and we're about to 'leave again!

Best,
Casey&Mary
 
Casey, call Verizon customer service and tell them you're thinking of going to ATT. They reduced my bill $30, and gave me 4 more gig. Tyboo posted that, and it works!

Steve
 
We have a GM, and do use the Tow haul mode in most circumstances (not with an empty trailer however). I agree that compression breaking is far better with the Tow haul (and I also have a manual shift for long down grades. My observation is that it changes the shift points, and watching the tach, it seems to be easier on the engine.

Now as for Allisons--I wish all trucks have those. We a 3000, plus exhaust brake on the RV--and use the service brakes only for the last few feet even at a street stop--when towing the boat, or Yukon XL (wt more that the C Dory 22).

We are getting close to 50K on the Yukon driving--closer to 80 K being towed behind RV. We will have transmission serviced when we return home. (I had discussed this with the SM of the dealership where we purchased, and where it is always serviced.
 
We have several 3/4 to 1 ton trucks we tow with at work, on of which is a Ford F350. I do not like this truck overall, however, I REALLY like the manner in which the truck descends hills while towing with the tow/haul switch engaged. It very effectively uses the engine to slow the vehicle and saves your brakes. Recently I was driving the truck down a steep grade, without any trailer attached, and nearly boiled my brake fluid on a fairly steep descent. I used the tow/haul mode the rest of the way, and braking was then accompanied by a nice smooth downshift and stable and controlled reduction in speed without much brake use at all.

I find it much more useful as a tool to control any descent than just for towing/hauling.
 
If you have "surge only" brakes on your trailer, that will be activated whether you use conventional brakes of engine breaking (like in tow/haul mode) when you are descending. My surge only system heated up the hubs to 230F on my decent into Port Alberni on this last trip. I make it a practice to stop and measure the temps every 2 hours or after a long steep descent. This one is my record for highest hub temps. (Usual is around 110 to 125 degrees F).

When you are going down hill, the trailer is pushing forward onto the hitch, activating the surge system. My usual plan is to let it roll if I can, or start down the hill doing pretty slow and maintain with the gear down mode until I can let it roll out toward the bottom. Obviously that depends on conditions, traffic and road.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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In the past we have discussed putting in switch to cut out the surge brakes, but activating the lock out solenoid. Just for use when you are descending long grades with surge brakes. I feel that there should be a red warning light if one does this.
 
Maybe I've just been lucky, but so far I've been okay with the surge brakes on descents. I do go VERY slowly as I crest the pass, and then descend with heavy engine braking. Sometimes I do have to lightly tap the brakes, but I do it very gingerly. So far no overheating of the trailer brakes. If I did find that happening (or if I ever do), I'd probably go to EOH.

Maybe some surge brakes are more or less sensitive to initiation? I can tell mine work when I'm stopping, so I guess they are sensitive enough, but I mean maybe some actuators or just tow/trailer combos take less pressure to initiate?

I don't have tow/haul (didn't come out until 2005 on Ford vans), so I just use a manual downshift. I imagine the tow/haul is nice though!

If I could change one thing it would be to put another gear between 2nd and 3rd, because when I can't keep my RPM's up in 3rd, it's a long way down to 2nd on my transmission (4R100). I was lusting after the 5-speed that came out along with the tow/haul, but then I found out the extra gear is between 1st and 2nd (IIRC, at any rate it's not between 2nd and 3rd). So I'm able to control my envy better now at least.
 
I had one trailer set up such that I had full control of the brakes. It was very very nice. I think it was modified from an electronically controlled (not surge brake) setup, and the connection to the brake pedal was disengaged.

As long as I remembered to brake the trailer, it worked very well. I don't think I'd do that with a manual transmission though. Not enough arms.
 
My Yukon (and most of the GM of the 2012 on vintage until 2015), have 6 speed tranny, with a pretty equal progression. Mostly done for fuel economy. The highest gear is locked out in Tow haul, and RPM shifting points are changed with tow haul. The 2015 has 8 gears.

Sunbeam, just add a Gear Venders Gear splitter. That doubles the number of gears--and a great selection. I have put these on my gas RV's. The shifter is electric--just push a button.

Sure beats 5 on the floor followed by a 4 speed brownie box! (Lots of watching the tach and double clutching)--so hands were very busy, as were the feet! I only drove that type of rig in the summers, but on some very steep and narrow mountain grades.
 
My nephews chevy heavy duty 2500 gas engine has 160,000 miles on it. We do masonry work the body looks pitiful ,but he has been towing a bobcat behind truck on a large trailer for a lot of years. Sometimes with heavy backhoe attachment,sometimes with heavy jackhammer attachment.We both have same engine I use tow haul when hauling boat. I asked him the other day does he use tow haul figured he did. Well his answers was first year or 2 he used tow haul,but it seemed to lag and not shift as soon as it seemed it should. So he has been hauling that heavy stuff a lot of years not in tow haul mode,not saying which is right,just saying he never has caused any problems not using tow haul mode.
 
Journey On is towed by a 2006 F-250, 5.4 V-8 and the 5 speed transmission. Ford claims that's the same transmission used for the diesel, though I hope it has different ratios. No problems yet

So, I use tow-haul down grade to automatically shift into 4th gear, and on easy up grade for the same thing. As far as I can see that's the only way to get into 4th gear, because if you pull the shift lever down 1 notch, you get third gear. I use 3rd gear to go up most steep grades and to slow the truck down for steep downgrades. 2nd gear is for the Grapevine below Bakersfield on I-5, etc. 1st is for the driveway. I have no shame on manually shifting the transmission down and haven't lost one yet.

I firmly believe that to wait until the transmission shifts down by itself is to invite trouble. So I grab the lever and pull, running the engine between 3500 and 4000. Worked well for me, both for the 4-speed in my Chevvie and now the Dorf. And both were great trucks.

As for trans filtering, the F-250 has an external filter which I replace every 15000 miles or so. The filter is cheap and replacement is easy. Not looking forward to changing the internal filter. I think it takes about 15 qts of Motorcraft fluid.

Boris
 
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