Fixing the gas tank problem

C

clayhubler

Member
Finally getting time to work on the gas tank problem that is common in these boats. What a joke it is that they came from the factory like this. Hoping the picture posts, first time trying to get that figured out.

Transom has some rot also.

Hoping to have this baby back together before christmas.

Oh, yeah, the area I circled appears to be a patch of some kind. What do you think?

Inked20201108_171309_LI.sized.jpg
 
Well, I guess I'm posting micro sized photos...

Its bigger in the album.

Okay, that only took two hours. Took less time to pull the motors and tanks...
 
clayhubler":12tw44te said:
Well, I guess I'm posting micro sized photos...

Its bigger in the album.

Okay, that only took two hours. Took less time to pull the motors and tanks...
Click to expand...

You can click on the image in your album to make it larger for viewing, right?

If you want the photo in the thread to be larger, click on it in your album, it will enlarge there, then click on it to get the image address to copy into the thread.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

7_SleepyC_at_Port_Harvey_001.thumb.jpg
 
There you go. I got the photo to grow.

You had the right idea for embedding the image but the link you used between the image tags was not the right one. If you click on the pic in your album, then right click on the enlarged image you should find an option to copy the image address or URL. That is what needs to go between the tags.

If you want, I can delete the messages talking about the micro sized photos so your thread can get back to the business at hand.

Best of luck with your fix and I hope you get it done well before Christmas.
 
Okay, I think I got it now. Click on the image first so it is enlarged, then copy the address.
Thanks for the help on that. Is there a way to post a picture from a file on the computer or does it have to go into the album (or at least on the web) first?

I'll try to post a few more pics now
 
Sucks that they screw into the floor to keep tanks in place

I've got to repair mine too one of these days

Right now they're just sealed with bolts held in place with marine caulk

have to make sure you get all that wet wood out
 
That corner "patch" is unusual. It looked as if someone put a pice mat with resin in the corner after the boat was laminated in the mold. Does not look like a "patch, but you never know.

Good on routing out and filling the holes. What did you use as filler with the epoxy?

I would glue strips of compost (Like PVC lumber) onto the floor and put the screws into that. That is what the more recent boats have done...about 2006-7 era in the 22's
 
Yes, I was wondering if it was a shim for fuel tank or something, but it goes up the side a ways. I don't know what it is. I don't know if the boat was in some kind of accident and sustained damage there from a hit. I don't see any evidence of that on the outer hull.

I haven't filled the holes yet. I'm trying to get them dry still. I may have to cut the skin off in a few areas and get some balsa. I have west system resin with cabosil thickener, but some of the holes are pretty large. Its cold here, but I don't want the plugs to build up too much heat.

I think I'm going to have to cut a small piece of the lower transom out also...
 
Wiki Tiki

It may not be as bad as you think. I was expecting to cut out the entire cockpit floor but the water didn't migrate too far from the holes because it is end grain balsa.

Its hard to get it to dry though when it 35 degrees outside
 
Basically you want to remove wet core. Undercut the fiberglass so the plug is secure and acts as a binder between he cockpit floor and outer hull skin.

I like to use a bit of medium density filler along with the cabosil. Seems to make the epoxy plugs less brittle and easier to put a screw in if you wish to do that.

I don't think this is a "repair from outside"--inner aspect.

If possible try and work in temperatures of at least 55*

What is the issue with the transom? Wet, delaminated by tapping? Drilled holes or over drilled and found wet material?

Good going!
 
Yes, I drilled out the holes where the engines were mounted and one of the lower holes is wet and rotten. Only one at least. I will drill a few more exploratory holes when I get time.

Kind of hard to see, but the material is wet and very soft. All the other holes were dry and solid. This hole is the port engine, lower right mounting bolt.

20201108_171108.sized.jpg
 
Good idea to cut back and fill on all of the holes. This gives a "doughnut" to compress against when the bolts are rightened. Most likely the damage is localized.

The rigger should put a metal plate inside the transom between both sets of bolt holes to spread the load out. Virtually no one puts the epoxy or solid material as should be done.
 
I was considering putting a piece of 1/4 thick by 4 inch aluminum flatbar as a backer for that very reason.

Here are some more pics. The plastic cap on the transom is coming loose in one spot, and I worry about water intrusion there also:

20201108_171152.sized.jpg


I also removed the plug and was blown away because the wood around the hole was never even sealed with epoxy. It was wet but not rotten at least. Unbelievable to me:

20201108_172001.sized.jpg


I put the trex on there when I got the new fishfinder. Will the trex work or should I tear it off and buy some starboard. I actually am going to have to buy some starboard anyway.
 
thataway":uicr66sd said:
... I would glue strips of compost (Like PVC lumber) onto the floor and put the screws into that. That is what the more recent boats have done...about 2006-7 era in the 22's
Click to expand...

IME, the PVC lumber you get at places like Home Depot is ok when you use it as lumber (say siding a house). It's not that good at holding screws with a tension load on them, it's too soft.

Something like Starboard or maybe Trex decking material might be better.
 
From Workbenchmagazine.com. Plus the PVC lumber should be glassed in place, which gives another layer of material which holds screws.

PVC lumber glues up exceptionally well; it has good screw-holding ability; and it can be nailed in place, as well. And since PVC doesn't absorb mois- ture or expand and contract as much as wood, assemblies will stay together for the long haul.
Click to expand...
 
When you say PVC lumber are you talking about starboard or it's generic equivalent or are you talking about trex?
I'm planning on gluing pieces of starboard down to secure the tanks after the repair. I also want the starboard in front of the tanks to go all the way up to the lower lip of the splash well so they are more secure.
Thanks
 
clayhubler":18cmxoo7 said:
When you say PVC lumber are you talking about starboard or it's generic equivalent or are you talking about trex?
I'm planning on gluing pieces of starboard down to secure the tanks after the repair. I also want the starboard in front of the tanks to go all the way up to the lower lip of the splash well so they are more secure.
Thanks
Click to expand...

IME, PVC lumber is the white plastic stuff you find at Home Depot or Lowes in the lumber section. It comes as in standard finish lumber sizes (e.g. 1x8) and sheets. Sometimes one side will have a wood grain texture and the other side will be smooth. Sheets and finish pieces are smooth on both sides. It is usually found in the section with trim pieces and mouldings. Some Home Depots do carry Starboard but I'm not sure where it is located in the store. I tried using PVC lumber on a RIB I used to have (because it is water proof). The results were usable, but it was not something I did again. Starboard is much better. The difference is that PVC lumber is easier to work and fasten (it can be glued). Starboard is difficult to glue.
 
Okay, I got some time to start cutting.

Started with the transom. I was expecting marine ply but it was balsa, and looks to be only 1 inch thick. I got all the rot out but there was still a little damp in the edges of the cut. But the heater can blow on that pretty easily, so I'm going to let that go for a few days.
20201111_165131.sized.jpg

20201111_171206.sized.jpg


There are more pics in the album

The balsa in the holes on the floor was still totally saturated, not going to dry out like that, so I started cutting on it too.
20201111_174437.sized.jpg

20201111_201632.sized.jpg


You can see that the wood is still totally soaked, not rotten mostly but will not dry.

20201111_201654.sized.jpg


I was hoping that this would be enough cutting, but I'm going to take the back half of the cockpit out next time I go work on it because the balsa is not going to dry. Probably from a foot and a half all the way back to the transom. So here is my next question: do I need to worry about support for the hull? Its on bunks on the trailer. If the top skin is gone and the balsa is gone do I need to worry about distortion when I epoxy this back together?

20201111_203205.sized.jpg
 
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