Factory Gel-coat repair class
- Thread starter sjboysen
- Start date
Teufelshunde
New member
I was searching around for more info on the basics of fiberglass boat repair and I found this video series on YouTube called SAIL Epoxy Basics which I thought was pretty informative. The series starts very basic and gets more interesting as you progress.
I have done fiberglass work 20 years ago on corvettes so I have a little experience but this series helped me regarding boats. Hopefully the link works. The video link is the first video in the series.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GEM6CqJQN ... B&index=11
I have done fiberglass work 20 years ago on corvettes so I have a little experience but this series helped me regarding boats. Hopefully the link works. The video link is the first video in the series.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GEM6CqJQN ... B&index=11
The West System is what I have used for many years. There are several video series.
I would start with this video, rather than the one on tools.
There are specific series on replacing core, overdriving and putting in hardware to give an installation which is strong and avoids any core rot in the future.
To stay with the subject matter, here is one on polyester gel coat over West Systems Epoxy.
I would start with this video, rather than the one on tools.
There are specific series on replacing core, overdriving and putting in hardware to give an installation which is strong and avoids any core rot in the future.
To stay with the subject matter, here is one on polyester gel coat over West Systems Epoxy.
Teufelshunde
New member
Hey bob- After I posted the link I realized it should have been in a different subject thread. Sorry about that. I did post it again under hull repair.
Thanks for the link as well!
Thanks for the link as well!
I happened to be answering a question on another forum, and came upon this site: I choose this page, because it has a number of his videos, as well as a series of links at the top of the page, which deals with subjects such as...gelcoat!.
You would not know it, but this fellow started off as a psychologist--and ended up going down the path of a boat restorer...Easy listening, and he seems to have some very solid practical information.
You would not know it, but this fellow started off as a psychologist--and ended up going down the path of a boat restorer...Easy listening, and he seems to have some very solid practical information.
Teufelshunde
New member
thataway":1vszarxp said:
I have watched a few of his videos and they are informative!
I can totally see him as a psychologist.
clayhubler
Member
I have a good air compressor but I do not have an air dryer. Will I be able to spray gelcoat without moisture contamination?
colbysmith
Active member
Depends o the humidity of the air. Probably worth having a filter/dryer. I even put one at the sprayer end of the hose when working with paints.
I always use a dryer with any paint or gel coat. Gelcoat is tricky to spray. What gun and oriface are your going to use?
Consider thinning with Styrene.(no more than 15% max--better no more than 5%) I have used Duratec® Clear Hi-Gloss Gel Coat Additive 1: 1 for spraying.
What are you going to be gel coating? If it is the floor, I might consider another approach: We have used resin thickened with Cabosil and a coarse roller to give a non skid surface like the factory used.
My approach, except for relatively small repairs, is to paint a hull with 2 part LP paint, if it comes to the point of degraded gel coat which might need "refreshing"
Consider thinning with Styrene.(no more than 15% max--better no more than 5%) I have used Duratec® Clear Hi-Gloss Gel Coat Additive 1: 1 for spraying.
What are you going to be gel coating? If it is the floor, I might consider another approach: We have used resin thickened with Cabosil and a coarse roller to give a non skid surface like the factory used.
My approach, except for relatively small repairs, is to paint a hull with 2 part LP paint, if it comes to the point of degraded gel coat which might need "refreshing"
clayhubler
Member
I should have been more clear. Are you guys talking about a dryer (machine with refrigerant) or a moisture trap/ filter? I do have a moisture trap/ filter, but not an air dryer machine.
I do want to gelcoat the floor after the repairs, but I thought that rolling the gelcoat on would be fine for that. I have also considered some kind of two part paint for the floor. I actually don't want any non-slip, because I want a surface that is easy to clean and I plan to build floorboards for the cockpit and the cabin sole.
I want to make a couple of parts from molds and I want to gelcoat the parts. I know there are easier/ cheaper ways of going about it, but I want to learn how to do this.
I want to make a partial hardtop for the cockpit. I have wanted a bimini on Hammerhead, but had given up on it because I felt it would be in the way when fishing. But Pat Anderson's post about flrockytop and the photo of his bimini has given me the idea build a cantilevered bimini that covers part of the cockpit. Then I decided that I would like it to be a hardtop instead of canvas. So, that is my fiberglass mold project. I want to make the hardtop so it matches the radius of the c-dory roof and is the same gelcoat and trim with pinstriping. I would of course be at a higher level than the roof. This will also allow me to put a solar panel on the boat, which is another thing I had given up on. I plan to build the mold and use some 1/4 or 3/8 balsa and make a cored hardtop to cover 2/3 of the cockpit.
I don't have a gun yet, but I was thinking of purchasing this one:
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/6_Li ... un_00126_A
I do want to gelcoat the floor after the repairs, but I thought that rolling the gelcoat on would be fine for that. I have also considered some kind of two part paint for the floor. I actually don't want any non-slip, because I want a surface that is easy to clean and I plan to build floorboards for the cockpit and the cabin sole.
I want to make a couple of parts from molds and I want to gelcoat the parts. I know there are easier/ cheaper ways of going about it, but I want to learn how to do this.
I want to make a partial hardtop for the cockpit. I have wanted a bimini on Hammerhead, but had given up on it because I felt it would be in the way when fishing. But Pat Anderson's post about flrockytop and the photo of his bimini has given me the idea build a cantilevered bimini that covers part of the cockpit. Then I decided that I would like it to be a hardtop instead of canvas. So, that is my fiberglass mold project. I want to make the hardtop so it matches the radius of the c-dory roof and is the same gelcoat and trim with pinstriping. I would of course be at a higher level than the roof. This will also allow me to put a solar panel on the boat, which is another thing I had given up on. I plan to build the mold and use some 1/4 or 3/8 balsa and make a cored hardtop to cover 2/3 of the cockpit.
I don't have a gun yet, but I was thinking of purchasing this one:
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/6_Li ... un_00126_A
In line air dryer/filter, not compressor. I would probably paint--you are going onto epoxy, I believe. Two part is OK--but not if it is going to be constantly immersed in water. I rolled on 2 part awl grip on the deck of my Cal 46. We sprayed the hull topsides, and the gloss of the cabin sides--we did add micro glass beads to the first coast--and second coat with no micro beads. You would get a decent finish, but not the best gloss by rolling--there are some who can come close to a spray job with tip and roll.
I would probably go with Nadicore for a cabin top (although the C dory does use balsa in the cabin top of the pilot house. Are you going to have a space between the cabin top and where you have the leading edge of the hard top? I know you live in "cold" country, but even in the PNW it is nice to be able to have some ventilation between the canvas top and the cabin top.
You can integrate awning railing so that when you want a camper canvas back enclosure, you can do very easily by adding bolt rope to the side and rear pieces, That is far better than the use of sippers.
If I was doing a mold, I would use sealed and waxed masonite for the majority of the cabin top, and then bu8ld the edges with light wood, fillets for the curve. Interesting concept of making the cockpit cover with fiberglass. The engineering of the cantilevered top is critical. Some of use tend to swing from the aluminum tubing as we board. My 42 foot trawler had a hard top over the flying bridge, of aluminum sandwich with 2" foam between. The top and edges were fiberglassed. We air conditioned the flying bridge. We rolled on a single part modified epoxy paint.
Atlantic Towers makes custom fiberglass tops, but supports them with aluminum structure.. It might be worth taking a look if you have not already.
I would probably go with Nadicore for a cabin top (although the C dory does use balsa in the cabin top of the pilot house. Are you going to have a space between the cabin top and where you have the leading edge of the hard top? I know you live in "cold" country, but even in the PNW it is nice to be able to have some ventilation between the canvas top and the cabin top.
You can integrate awning railing so that when you want a camper canvas back enclosure, you can do very easily by adding bolt rope to the side and rear pieces, That is far better than the use of sippers.
If I was doing a mold, I would use sealed and waxed masonite for the majority of the cabin top, and then bu8ld the edges with light wood, fillets for the curve. Interesting concept of making the cockpit cover with fiberglass. The engineering of the cantilevered top is critical. Some of use tend to swing from the aluminum tubing as we board. My 42 foot trawler had a hard top over the flying bridge, of aluminum sandwich with 2" foam between. The top and edges were fiberglassed. We air conditioned the flying bridge. We rolled on a single part modified epoxy paint.
Atlantic Towers makes custom fiberglass tops, but supports them with aluminum structure.. It might be worth taking a look if you have not already.