EPRIB and PLB

Thanks for clarification ,now that I think of it my live well is disconnected. Never thought about the other holes above the waterline. I heard the term so many times ,was curious what it refered to. Guess boats with a prop shaft ,could become an issue with a failure of some type.
 
One of the more common causes of sinking in a slip, is failure around the prop shaft,--which can fail in several ways. Stuffing box, packing gland, bellows from shaft log to stuffing box, and the shaft coming out, after the coupling fastening fails (usually underway).
 
This past season a boat sank at their slip , never did hear why. Sure looks strange with it resting on the bottom,the docks get walked everyday by Park ranger in morning. Somehow during the night it sank. I forget if it was a rainy weekend,but I was sure to have bilge pumps on auto the entire season.
 
Larry Patrick":1bmiwfmc said:
This past season a boat sank at their slip , never did hear why. Sure looks strange with it resting on the bottom,the docks get walked everyday by Park ranger in morning. Somehow during the night it sank. I forget if it was a rainy weekend,but I was sure to have bilge pumps on auto the entire season.
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Having the bilge pumps on auto is good if there is an unlimited power supply to them, be it solar charging or through a shore power set up of some kind.

A mooring cover over the cockpit or camper back will also help decrease the amount of access rainwater has to get onboard.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Had a conversation today, with an active duty Coastie, and his first question was "Do you have an EPIRB on board?". Approximate best time to my worst case scenario is 30 - 40 minutes. That's a long time to be in 45 degree water.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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colbysmith":3iiqtr4c said:
Cold water survival chart.

http://www.usps.org/national/ensign/usp ... hermia.htm
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That's a good link - worth reviewing.

Remember that you will become FUNCTIONALLY DISABLED within 2-15 minutes of cold water immersion. This means your fine motor control (finger dexterity) will be GONE. That is why you will fairly quickly drown if you aren't wearing a pfd because your ability to simply tread water will be severely compromised. Operating your VHF radio or EPIRB should be done sooner rather than later. Also, if you can't effect self-rescue (climb back into your boat or get partially out of the water) within this time...:cry:

Check out coldwaterbootcampusa.org they teach the 1:10:1 principle. This means you have ONE minute to control your breathing (if you hyperventilate too long you will pass out and drown); 10 minutes of meaningful movement to self-rescue/call for help/activate EPIRB, etc; one hour of consciousness before becoming hypothermic and loosing consciousness.


There's LOADS of useful info on the cold water bootcamp site including videos demostrating how quickly you become disabled

Here (http://coldwaterbootcampusa.org/videos_cwbc.shtml) are a few vids to get you started.

stay warm,

dave
 
Thanks for those links. Good info.

Maybe for a bit of clarification. You won't drown due to hypothermia in the first 5 minutes. The sudden immersion of the face and head in cold water (50 degrees F or less) causes Cold Water Shock, which causes either a lack of ability to breath or hyperventilation and causes the heart to go into a fatal rhythm called Ventricular Fibrillation, from which there is no spontaneous reversal. That will cause a decrease in blood perfusion to the heart muscle, brain, lungs resulting in decrease oxygen levels throughout the essential organs and that will result in unconsciousness. At that point breathing will resume, and if you are face down in the water or underwater, death by drowning is the result. That whole process will probably take less than 6-10 minutes.

Cold water shock syndrome is more prevalent in older cases (50-55 years and up), which means that IF I go into the water, I do what ever it takes to keep my face and head out, and above the water surface.

IF you make it past the first 5 minutes, THEN you can look forward to the effects of hypothermia. As the brain goes numb, the feeling of cold will go away too, and you strip your clothing off because of the warm sensation and you go unconscious feeling warm. What a way to go :shock: :roll:

I like that 1:10:1 rule. But I think I want to stay in the boat.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Excellent information. Remember just because the water is warmer, does not mean that you will not die of hypothermia. Number one is getting back into the boat. There are been a number of cases, where a person was in the water, the crew was not able to get them aboard, and they died from hypothermia along side the boat, in S. Calif. This alone is a good reason to a radio on your person.

For those new of the forum--give consideration how to get out of the water. Is your ladder deployable from the water? Can you put a foot on the antiventillation plate (or foil, on that plate), plush the button, raising the motor, and get aboard? We have practiced in the past, with davits, and hoists. Use of the Life Sling is important in offshore use. I have found more difficult with side ladders, or rope ladders, which tend to swing under the boat.
 
In the USCG Aux. class, while it technically is not an emergency when a person goes overboard and you succeed in recovering them, they recommended requesting medical assistance. People have gone 'south' one way or another even after recovery.
 
hardee":16rna9q5 said:
Having the bilge pumps on auto is good if there is an unlimited power supply to them, be it solar charging or through a shore power set up of some kind.
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I leave two bilge pumps on auto at all times and have one battery and no shore power, with an uncovered CD22 in the rainiest place on earth, sometimes for two weeks between use of the boat. So far the only time the bilge pumps have killed a battery is when my rule auto pump failed to shut itself off.

I have had numerous occasions where both pumps failed to pump automatically and gotten a fair amount of water in my boat without being anywhere close to sinking. It would take a lot of water to do that.

My speculation, and only real fear regarding my boat living in the harbor is the plug failing. That would put your boat on the bottom very quickly.
 
Kushtaka":6fazs7uw said:
hardee":6fazs7uw said:
Having the bilge pumps on auto is good if there is an unlimited power supply to them, be it solar charging or through a shore power set up of some kind.
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I leave two bilge pumps on auto at all times and have one battery and no shore power, with an uncovered CD22 in the rainiest place on earth (emphasis added), <stuff clipped>.
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Cordova Alaska - "The yearly average rainfall is 89 inches (226 cm) with 125 rainy days out of the year." (From Wikipedia)
Top 10 wettest places on Earth
#10 - EMEI SHAN, SICHUAN PROVINCE, CHINA
Average annual rainfall: 8,169 mm (=816.9cm = ~3.6 x rain in Cordova).

So while Cordova is quite rainy, and I hate to "rain on your parade", it's not even close to the top 10 rainiest places on earth. :wink:

That said, I agree a bilge pump can run for a long time on battery without draining it. Still I far prefer to have my boat on a charger when moored in the water. I never know if something might come up that will keep me away from it for longer than originally planned.
 
rogerbum":2kj0l74q said:
Kushtaka":2kj0l74q said:
hardee":2kj0l74q said:
Having the bilge pumps on auto is good if there is an unlimited power supply to them, be it solar charging or through a shore power set up of some kind.
Click to expand...

I leave two bilge pumps on auto at all times and have one battery and no shore power, with an uncovered CD22 in the rainiest place on earth (emphasis added), <stuff clipped>.
Click to expand...

Cordova Alaska - "The yearly average rainfall is 89 inches (226 cm) with 125 rainy days out of the year." (From Wikipedia)
Top 10 wettest places on Earth
#10 - EMEI SHAN, SICHUAN PROVINCE, CHINA
Average annual rainfall: 8,169 mm (=816.9cm = ~3.6 x rain in Cordova).

So while Cordova is quite rainy, and I hate to "rain on your parade", it's not even close to the top 10 rainiest places on earth. :wink:

That said, I agree a bilge pump can run for a long time on battery without draining it. Still I far prefer to have my boat on a charger when moored in the water. I never know if something might come up that will keep me away from it for longer than originally planned.
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Don't believe it!!! It's just that Alaskan raindrops won't fit in a standard rain gauge!!!
 
Forks, Washington, gets 119 inches of rain per year. The US average is 37. Snowfall is 13 inches. The average US city gets 25 inches of snow per year.
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With an average annual rainfall of 37.41 inches, the state of Washington gets 1.8 less inches of rain than the national average (39.17 inches) WA Weather

Forks has had an average rainfall of 99.54 inches over the last 30 years, which is 154% more than the average nationwide, and 166% more than the average in Washington.

8.15 inches is the max for a one day record.
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Weather db.


Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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April 28-30 2014: Our home is just to the right of the arrow. We had a total water rise of 6 feet from mean water on the bayou, and 2 1/2 feet on our lot next to our raised house--water came up on the bottom of the boat, to a point where it would have floated it--but we had the trailer chained to a tree. That is probably enough to have given some serious issues with the C Dory had it been in the water, no pump, and not covered.

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Larry Patrick":sfkjq7kk said:
Never thought of using motor button to help lift yourself out of water if injured or what ever reason ,good idea.
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Pulling someone out of the water who doesn't want to be in there is one of the most difficult things to do. Pulling an unconscoius person out is harder. Getting yourself back into a boat by yourself is easier, but can get tough if you are injured or becoming hypothermic.

When my new field crews arrive in the spring and we discuss self-rescue we go out in the lot and take turns riding outboards up and down.

But in a lot of cases it's easier to step on the anti-cavitation plate and step onto the boat, but most of ours are jet drives which don't give you a good foothold. Depends on the situation.
 
At one point we put on wet suits and practiced with the life sling, and various types of hoists. It is easier in a wet suit than in clothing. Clothing is wet and increased the lifting weight significantly.

I fell overboard when I was about 11 years old--my dad did not believe in life lines, toe rails over 1" high or non skid surfaces on the deck.I had gone forward to "sweat up the manila halyards". Fortunately my father was an ex college football player, and grabbed me by the shirt on the first pass, and was able to lift me over the 3' freeboard.

Manila (a fiber like hemp from the abacá a banana type plant) line was the usual sailboat halyard and sheet material before Dacron was available, and stretched, so it had to be pulled tighter periodically.
 
Bringing this one back.

Yesterday was the time to get a rescue beacon. West Marine has a good sale going on, with triple points and some good rebates on the ACR ResQLink+ so I pulled the trigger on it and today it is registered with NCAA and serviceable anywhere I travel, boat or bike.

Interesting that the US government agency that handles the registration is the weather guys. Oh well, it's done.

The battery is good for 6 years but the registration has to be renewed every 2 years. No charge for that or the use. You do have an option to sign up for a "406.com" service that allows more testing feedback, but not necessary. There is a fee from ACR if you want that service.

Sure hope I never need it :crook

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

:embarrased :oops:
 
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